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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so tired of starting new threads when I am doing some thing with my jeep time to consolodate. So I will from now on be posting in this so SUBSCRIBE :popCorn:

Here are some of the links of my adventures so far:

Replacing 305 with 350
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/replacing-305-350-a-747494/

Gas tank swap
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/gas-tank-swap-854035/

Auto (700R4) to 5 speed (MG5) swap & TJ Brake booster upgrade
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/lt1-auto-5-speed-conversion-1430055/

Home brew power brake blead
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/...r-mc-install-1481752/index2.html#post15008899

On to todays question. Im in the process for gathering parts on for an 8.8 swap. I ran across the teraflex upper adjustable rear shock mounts for $24.99 normally $126.99. Should I jump on it? Does anyone have it? Do you like it? Problems? I know I can build my own, but that seems pretty cheap.

EDIT: seems like these could cause issues with an anti wrap bar. I may have answered my own question

Double EDIT: Inserting to keep first page updated:

Local thread that I use to keep my build updated:
http://www.matanzasjeepclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2771

Rig: 1987 AMC Wrangler (Black)
Engine: IROC 5.7L Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: NV4500 MT8 5 speed (internal slave)
Transfercase: NP241C
Axles: 79 Ford HP60, 03 AAM 10.5
Wheels: 17x8.5 Raceline Monster RT232 beadlocks
Tires: 37x13.5x17 Toyo M/T
Lift: SOA HD 0" springs, 1/2" booms

Mods: Updated 6-22-17

Suspension/Steering:
Ruffstuff SOA spring perches
Bilstein 5125 14"/12" shocks
Energy Suspension poly sway bar bushings
NWF Hi-steer arms
Bronze Kingpinbushings
Solid Axle Industries knuckles
Wagoneer pitman arm
1 Ton hi-steer links
Crown HD 6 leaf springs
Ground & Pound ½" Boomerang Shackles
Prothane 1" Body lift
Astro van hydro boost

1.25 bore Master Cylinder
Derale 10" Aluminum
Power steering heat sink
Power steering filter



Drive Train:
Advance Adapters SBC engine mount
Home built above frame transmission cross member with poly bushings
Energy Suspension poly motor mounts
Ruffstuff diff covers F&R
Lube lockers F&R
35 Spline 4340 Chromo front shafts w/ Spicer life joints
Yukon Hardcore lockouthubs
Spartan Locker Dana 60
ARB Locker AAM 10.5
Solid pinion spacerAAM 10.5
5.13 Gears
Seals-it outer axleseals Dana 60
M14x1.5 front wheelstuds Dana 60
Flange Yoke F&R
Cutthroat 4x4 NP241 clocking ring
JB Super Short SYE w/ 1310 CV yoke
Adams CV driveshaft (clearanced CV)
Summit 8mm Wires
MSD street fire coil
Performance cam
Corvette 2.5" Rams horn manifolds
Home built 2.5" mandrel bent y-pipe and Exhaust
Highflow Catalytic converter
Magnaflow Stainless muffler
Home built cold air intake
K&N filter
Outerwears Prefilter
Performance Camshaft
Oil pump pick up retainer
Modified K1500 Transfer case shift linkage
Ruffstuff DIY traction bar
Home Built CV front Drive shaft
Home built Battery tray
DieHard Platinum AGM Group 65 Battery
140A CS144 Alternator
A/C compressor relocation brackets
Sanden 7 piston A/C compressor
Champion 3 Core aluminum Radiator w/ Stainless overflow
Ford Contour Dual Fan w/ FAL variable speed controller
4 Point battery bus bar
Hella accessory fuse block
Mechanical Fuel pressure gauge


Recovery/Armor/Exterior:
Family style roll bars
Skyjacker grab handles
Tow hooks
Warn 9.5XP w/ solenoid box relocation (In cab winch controls)
Home built winch cover
Factor 55 1.5 hawse fairlead
Am-steel synthetic rope
Pro-Link loaded thimble
Pro-comp front bumper w/ shackle mounts
Warrior stinger/grill hoop/winch mount
High lift jack w/ Isolator
Shackles all 4 corners
Barnes 4x4 ¼" flat skid
Home built rear bumper/spare tire carrier w/ 2" receiver
4&7 pin trailer wiring
Smitty Built Snatch block
LED Flood lights
LED Spot lights
LED Eagle eye Rock lights
ARB CKMTA12 Aircompressor
TJ fender flairs
Steel braided front brake lines
20 gallon gas tank upgrade
H4 headlight conversion w/ relay upgrade
Body mounted bottle opener
Under hood tool box
Cowl vent scoop


Interior:
Smitty Built security console
Alpine 9884 CD/Mp3 player
Polk DB461P dash speakers
Polk DB6502 overhead speakers
Polk DB692 rear wedge speakers
Rockville 10" powered subwoofer
Alpine PDX-F4 four channel amp
Dakota SGI-5 signal generator (speedo correction)
Half steel doors & soft doors
Black Quadra-Top
Grant Steering wheel
Autometer gauge bezels
Autometer Ultra-lite gauges with LED lights (Tach, Speedo, Fuel, Vacuum, Volt,Temp, Oil press)
Contour V carling switches (Winch power, Winch In/Out, Engine Fan, Fog/Spot,Rock lights, Compressor, Lockers)
Mastercraft Baja RS seats
Cobra CB w/Firestick antenna
JeepAir A/C
C.RES 2 Cargo net
SpiderWeb Shade
LED interior overhead lighting
Home built wooden trunk deck lid

Future Mods:
LJ stretch
Links/ORI's
4D's
Roll cage
LS Engine
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is $126 normal price or is this one of those bs over price stuff to make it look like its on sale? Ive never really priced them out before. Anti- do you see any added benefits over using the stock mounts?

Anyone know where to get the best price on spicer 2-2-1379? I know I found them before for under $20, but Im having trouble now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OT but my jeep related. I scored some seat belts to today on fleabay. When I swapped roll-bars with a buddy back in Charlotte I forgot to swap the rear female belts that bolt to the floor. Didn't realize the sport style lap belt females were twice as long. Basically making the shoulder strap useless. Although I do have future plans for TJ roll-bar/soft top swap. YJ soft tops are just to much of a PITA to put up and down by yourself. Plus it will match the newly installed TJ fenders :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So what welders are people using? In looking to buy a welder cause I wouldn't trust my harbor freight stick welder to soldier a wire! Anyways I'm starting to do research an educate myself better on them. I don't want to completely break the bank getting some crazy 400A welder. It will be used for odds and ends. More importantly it will be used for my 8.8 swap and SOA. Then bumpers and what ever else I can think of down the road. I was looking at a MIG, but I've heard different stories on how big. I've heard for my purposes I would need at least a 150A and I've also heard I should at least get a 220A and i would be better off with stick. What's you guys opinion? What do y'all use for your rig? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Welders anyone???

I ordered a front female buckle out of the 92-95 from ebay. It has a bend in the plastic casing. Has anyone fixed this before? I am not sure if it is a thermoplastic. I have some ideas either heatgun or if I can manage to get the seatbelt out then maybe try putting the plastic in boiling water to try to soften it so I can reset it straight. Has anyone tried this???
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I personally like my MIG. It's a Lincoln 180 runs on 220v. It works great for welding anything small or big. Lots of guys use a 110v but you got to be careful with what you get, as you have found out with your harbor freight one. I started out learning on our ranch with a stick, then taught myself with a MIG. They are super easy to use and welds look much better than my stick welds. I like the Lincoln since its a very affordable welder but can still weld on par with a Miller or Hobart.
I was looking at the Lincoln 180 dual (mig). It can use 220v or 110V. I liked that because of flexibility of power. I just wonder if its as good as the true 220v. The only thing that sucks is its $900. I have seen the lincoln 140 around $400. Its a 110V welder. Would that be sufficient? Or do you think a 180A would be the minimum I need?

Side note I used a hair dryer to heat up the seatbelt casing and it worked like a charm to reform it:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Today was a great day. I finally went through my first tank of gas since swapping the transmission, fixing the vacuum leaks, and fixing a all the check engine lights. For the first time since u have owned my jeep (2004) I got over 200 miles to the tank. I ended up with 12.9 mpg. That is a far cry from the, 6 mpg I was getting before and I definitely wasn't light on the skinny pedal. I know the 4.10's are to tall for the v8 I'm sure I would get better mpg with 3.73's, but for me awesome day :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just a few shots from this weekend. It was awesome!



getting pulled off the course. I broke the d/s at the beginning of the course.









line to get on the beach



x2



never in my life seen so many jeeps (behind)



(infront)



all in all it was an awesome weekend! Hope to see some of you guys down there next year representing the YJ's :highfive:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I was wanting to know what is a good price for a full float dana 60 rear with drum brakes and 410 gears? I guy wants to sell me one for 275. He also knows a guy that wants to buy my dana 35 for $250. So basically I would pay $25 bucks for the axle. What is your thoughts? Is a drum dana 60 worth $275? If not does it really matter cause he is hooking me up with a guy that will buy my 35 for 250? I have to make this desision soon cause the guy needs the asap for a daily driver. An axle upgrade is long over due for me soo is this the opportunity I should jump on???
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I took apart the new to me winch for servicing and refurbishing. Also got front bumpers on order from 4 wheel parts. :deedidee:


 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I started to service the winch I bought on CL. I got all of the planetary gears removed, cleaned with purple power and a few cans of brake cleaner. No rust! Then regreased and re assmbled. I have to wait on a gasket though, it didnt make it through. The Warn customer service said I had a 90% chance of being able to reuse it... well I guess im the 10%. Here are some pics.

Cracking it open


1st set of gears


Thrust bushing


2nd set of gears


I didnt take a picture of the 3rd set of gears, but they were behind the second set. Here is the sliding ring gear. Notice the grooved side faces toward the winch drum. It must go back in that way.


All cleaned up!


Greased and re-assembled (minus the other side of the housing)


Need to do:
-re-tap the hole in the drum to mount the winch rope
-tap the new tie rods I ordered. (cannot believe they are not tapped from the factory)
-Dis assemble motor and clean
-gather parts to wire solenoids to be relocated under the hood
-pick up new bumpers :2thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I got it all back together. I skipped the motor cleaning for now (getting impatient). Well taking apart the planetary gears and putting them back together is about impossible to mess up. I put the 3rd (large) planetary gears in backwards and tried to reassemble and guess what. The drum wouldn't go on all the way. So I fixed that, got my tie rods tapped for the new stainless hardware I got from ace. Rubbed it down with alcohol and put the replacement way too expensive stickers back on. Now just waiting for the winch mount and debating on weather or not to relocate the solenoid box. I have to buy new battery cables regardless. Thoughts?

 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Sweet! I have always looked for used winches but never find the one i want. Maybe someday.

Sweet builds..... Build!

As far as welders go i went with 220 becuse i liked the duty cycle better. I am using a weldmark 187. It is made by hobart/miller only cheaper. :) I use 75/25 gas mixture with .030 or .035 wire deopends on cost. I use .023 for sheet metal work.

As far as upper shock mounts i was at a crossroads with my 8.8 swap. I made my own custom upper bar and custom lower mounts mounted to my home made u bolt skid plates. The upper i made has full motion of the shock mount thru it's travel forward and left to right. It also keeps my shocks up some and puts them in a better position.
love to see a pic of the mounts if you got it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
While I'm STILL waiting on my winch mount I decided to crack open the box with my hawse fairlead. It is billet aluminum and I decided it wasn't bling bling enough so I used my headlight restoration kit to polish it. Worked like a charm. Forgot to take a before pic. Me likey :)

Automotive exterior Bicycle part Automotive wheel system Gas Bumper


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
In preparation for the winch mount coming on Wednesday, I made the decision to relocate the soleniod box.

Once I decided on the location I used a pizza box from last night for the mount template.


I know you like my home made break :idea:


Ready for some holes


Drill press makes life alot easier


Welded it up. Go ahead flame away for the booger welds, but I dont think many people can do much better with what im working with and no auto darkening helmet (see next pic). Nothing a grinder wont fix though.


:welder: and yes those sticks are probably over 10yrs old


Test fitting it... Like a glove!


More pics from test fit. Im happy with the results.


...and more


After the test fit I taped off the contact area and put a couple of coats of primer down then put down a couple layers of Plastidip. Hopefully this should be effective corrosion control on the mated surfaces.


Layed a couple of coats of primer and Sprayed a few coats of the left over wheel paint I had from painting the winch. It looks silver because of the lighting, but its really gunmetal. Going to let it cure over night and mount it up tomorrow. I will need to measure all my 2AWG wire leangths to wire it up. Ill wait until I know what im working with when the mount comes in.... man im getting antsy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Update for the evening.

1) I guess all wire gauge is not created equal. I bought some black 2 gauge wire from Orielie's and lugs for 2 gauge wire. They only had 12 feet and I needed another 7 more. So I went to Napa and bought 7 feet of red 2 gauge wire for my power lead to solenoid box. It was over $4/ft at Napa (spit your drink out now). Well you get what you pay for. The lugs fit perfectly over the Orielie's 2ga, but not happening on the Napa wire. They are both marked 2ga but I'm going to need 0ga lugs for the Napa wire.


2) In the wiring diagram it says the wire that comes out of the female pigtail on the controller box is supposed to go to the motor ground (the bottom post on the winch motor) . I will have a 2 gauge ground wire going to that post already but I really don't feel that the controller ground must go to that post. I feel like it can go to any chassis ground. A ground is a ground no matter where you ground it right? Does anyone know if it's absolutely necessary that I run it to the winch motor ground? I would rather not cut splice and extend that wire when I have plenty of places to ground it on the fender. What do you guys think?


3) Post F1 is the only post that gets a positive signal correct? From the wiring diagrams I have found online has it as the only red wire running to the winch. I color coded my wires that way, but I'm just curious.

4) going to wait for the winch mount tomorrow to cut and lug the ends. Also waiting to determine if I'm going to rout them through the grill slats or under them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Here are some schematics i was looking at.

I know this is a 3 wire set up but do you see what I mean by only 1 red wire going to the winch? Is that the only + wire??
[/URL]

This is the correct schematic for my winch
[/URL]

Now I know this is not the same winch but it gives you a better visual picture... Does that Black wire comin from the controller HAVE to go to motor ground or can it go to any ground????? :confused::confused::confused:

[/URL]
 
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