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YJ Tub Removal Tips

10480 Views 10 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Lockmin
Starting in about a week I am planning to dissemble my 94 YJ and pull the tub off the frame. My plan is to clean up the frame and use chassis saver to seal it. Additionally I plan to bed line the bottom and the inside of the tub. For anyone who has pulled the tub off their frame before is there anything I should know before I dive into this endeavor? It seems like it should not be to terrible of a job but so far every repair I have done that I thought would be "quick and easy" has taken three times longer than it should haha
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I'm noticing you're in a severe rust belt zone. Others may have differing opinions but I personally would fix, rust convert, and paint the thing, but IMHO I *might* bedline the bottomside but I wouldn't breadline inside. I think it traps moisture.
Fix it good so it holds paint and avoids rust by the good paint job (no bonds) and then no matter what you do with bedliner it will stand up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm noticing you're in a severe rust belt zone. Others may have differing opinions but I personally would fix, rust convert, and paint the thing, but IMHO I *might* bedline the bottomside but I wouldn't breadline inside. I think it traps moisture.
Fix it good so it holds paint and avoids rust by the good paint job (no bonds) and then no matter what you do with bedliner it will stand up.
What would your suggestion be for the interior of the tub then? Leave it metal?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Pulled the tub of my 94 when the tub was showing some signs of rust.

Couple of things you may run into....

Body mount bolts rusted to the cage nuts and spinning. Soak them with as much PB blast for as long as you can.

Do not forget about the two body mounts on the cross-member above the rear axle..... Dont ask

Take your time tearing down the fire wall etc. Not sure how far you plan to do with your disassemble... Label everything, even have a note pad with you to take notes, and use your phone to take a bunch of pics.

PB blast the mount bolts, try to get in where they are in the cross-members that are a part of the tub........ Hmm did I mention PB blast....

Oh and all that plastic on the bottom side is going to be brittle at this point. Inner fenders etc. If you plan on keeping it plan on taking your good old time taking it off..
 

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If you do a good prep work of the underside and prime, paint and the proper prep in the tub, I don't think bedlining the inside will an issue. Just take your time on both sides...
 

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Leftlanetrucking's write-up is the procedure I use. Get yourself a notebook and pen, a box of ziplock sandwich bags, and a camera. It takes a while to do all the steps, and a first time pull, dealing with 20 years of rust, will take longer. But you'll get it done. As for the tub underside, I remove the rust, prime and paint, then coat with a 3M rubberized undercoat. I've had good luck with tractor enamels from Tractor Supply. Very durable stuff.
 

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MigMan1313 said:
What would your suggestion be for the interior of the tub then? Leave it metal? Sent from my iPhone using ICrap&Talk
No. Don't leave it metal!

Rust convert as required, seal, prime, paint. That is the best base protection, paint.
 

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Here's a tip - be careful with the 'while it's off I might as well... ' items that get added to the list. Mine started with me borrowing a bay in Dad's garage for two weeks to fix the rear frame ends. It turned into a complete tear down, tub swap, and build-up over several years.
 

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Here's a tip - be careful with the 'while it's off I might as well... ' items that get added to the list. Mine started with me borrowing a bay in Dad's garage for two weeks to fix the rear frame ends. It turned into a complete tear down, tub swap, and build-up over several years.
Yep, that happens!
 

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Even to get the bolts loose (and I live in WI) you can soak them all you want and it may help but you will snap some of them or you need a die grinder in the cab or this air saw which works faster than the grinder

https://www.harborfreight.com/catal...e,f,EAFeatured+Weight,f,Sale+Rank,f&q=air+saw

to cut the interior body and peel them up to access the bolts and/or nuts. It is not pretty and you will need to weld the cuts back. I know because I did this about 6-7 years ago and it really helps to have a hoist and a couple friends plus a good MIG welder. I did not remove the body from the frame but the mounts were SHOT. On a YJ I think there are 11 of them. Also look at the transmission x member bolts and nuts as mine were bad and I also beefed up the frame for the engine.
 

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