14b and it's parts are actually fairly cheap, but fitting under the XJ is another thing - and that's even more so with HP D60 fronts 
XJ Flat Belly/ X member Build. Is it possible? Let's see....
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Well, thought I'd do a build on this separate from my XJ build. For those who don't know, my XJ is on about 3" of lift and 35's. I wheel my XJ in big pointy rocks that love to rip on anything they can on the bottom of my rig. I love the low stance of my heep and it works well, but it has it's drawbacks. EVERYTHING under my XJ has been taken into consideration because of it's low height. When you are this low, you rub and drag on rocks a lot. Is this a bad thing? Well, if you have the right armor and have clearanced everything that should be, then no. However, I have left one of the most important items untouched and it's way overdue for a replacement. This would obviously be my cross member. The factory X member is weak and hangs below the frame rails. At the same time, the bottom portion of the transfer case also hangs below the frame rails. This holds me up. Some how, I have yet to have exploded my transfer case. In the wheeling trips I have had this year, I have managed to turn the factory X member into an upside down U shape, which actually lifted my transfer case above the frame rails. Still, the cross member hangs too low. In this next pic, I was denied from getting to the top of this rock, even after repeatedly slamming into it trying to bounce and slide the cross member over the rock....
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So, where does this leave me? It leaves me wanting a completely-flat -to-the-frame-rails-cross member, one that is strong, and wanting my transfer case completely out of the way. So first, out with the old....
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To do this cross member, I got a clocking jig
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and some 2x6 3/16 wall
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So after doing some measuring, finding the center, and how much material should be shoved up between the frame rails, I came up with this....
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Using the center point, I kinda (yes, kinda) figured where the trans mount should go. I drilled holes and got this....
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And this is where I leave you hangin' til I get some more work done!
So, where does this leave me? It leaves me wanting a completely-flat -to-the-frame-rails-cross member, one that is strong, and wanting my transfer case completely out of the way. So first, out with the old....
To do this cross member, I got a clocking jig
and some 2x6 3/16 wall
So after doing some measuring, finding the center, and how much material should be shoved up between the frame rails, I came up with this....
Using the center point, I kinda (yes, kinda) figured where the trans mount should go. I drilled holes and got this....
And this is where I leave you hangin' til I get some more work done!
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The thing is, I have no desire to run over 37's/38's.14b and it's parts are actually fairly cheap, but fitting under the XJ is another thing - and that's even more so with HP D60 fronts
Yeap.. for those a D44 + D60 or a D60 + 14b combo would be perfect, depending on available power under the hood and/ or driving style.
Until that, keep the 30 and run 35s with not-so-heavy-pedal I had 35s on my XJ with 4.88s, stock shafts (large u-joints) for a couple years and I wasn't too easy on it - yet I never managed to break even a u-joint. My ARB and R&P took a dump on me, but that was because of a casting failure on the ARB and was covered by warranty. D30 actually holds up suprisingly well under an XJ even with 35s as long as you don't do anything overly stupid, like heavy landings at full throttle after launching over a rock ledge Then again, I've broken three shafts on my ZJ niner, I guess the V8 power is a bit too much for the poor turdy.. they were CVs though, let's see how well AlloyUSA cromo- shafts can take the grunt. I'm seeing tooth-fairy paying a visit at the R&P in the future :laugh:
edit: But enough of the BS about this stuff, let's get back to your original subject of the thread, flat belly on the XJ
Until that, keep the 30 and run 35s with not-so-heavy-pedal
I had 35s on my XJ with 4.88s, stock shafts (large u-joints) for a couple years and I wasn't too easy on it - yet I never managed to break even a u-joint. My ARB and R&P took a dump on me, but that was because of a casting failure on the ARB and was covered by warranty. D30 actually holds up suprisingly well under an XJ even with 35s as long as you don't do anything overly stupid, like heavy landings at full throttle after launching over a rock ledge Then again, I've broken three shafts on my ZJ niner, I guess the V8 power is a bit too much for the poor turdy.. they were CVs though, let's see how well AlloyUSA cromo- shafts can take the grunt. I'm seeing tooth-fairy paying a visit at the R&P in the future :laugh:edit: But enough of the BS about this stuff, let's get back to your original subject of the thread, flat belly on the XJ
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Started back to school today but between classes I got some work done on the cross member. First off, it fits and all the bolt holes line up....
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Then I cut some access slots to the trans mount bolts. No, they aren't perfectly square, but it's going to get thrashed on so who cares? I took one of the pieces of metal I cut out and welded it across the slots on the inside for a little added strength...
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Here is a pic of the whole cross member...
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So I slapped another stock cross member (not bent up one) on so I could get it out of the garage. Tightening up the bolts, one of the bolts just spins in the frame. Did I break a nutsert? What do I do with that?
Then I cut some access slots to the trans mount bolts. No, they aren't perfectly square, but it's going to get thrashed on so who cares? I took one of the pieces of metal I cut out and welded it across the slots on the inside for a little added strength...
Here is a pic of the whole cross member...
So I slapped another stock cross member (not bent up one) on so I could get it out of the garage. Tightening up the bolts, one of the bolts just spins in the frame. Did I break a nutsert? What do I do with that?
2 options IMOStarted back to school today but between classes I got some work done on the cross member. First off, it fits and all the bolt holes line up....
![]()
Then I cut some access slots to the trans mount bolts. No, they aren't perfectly square, but it's going to get thrashed on so who cares? I took one of the pieces of metal I cut out and welded it across the slots on the inside for a little added strength...
![]()
Here is a pic of the whole cross member...
![]()
So I slapped another stock cross member (not bent up one) on so I could get it out of the garage. Tightening up the bolts, one of the bolts just spins in the frame. Did I break a nutsert? What do I do with that?
1. Cut a hole in the side of the frame for new bolts. Not the best idea. It was done on my previous XJ.
2. Cut out both bolts(stud and nut), weld 2 nuts to a piece of 1/8 and weld in place of the old ones.
Thanks. I was hoping it would be something besides a pain in the d!ck. Sounds like fun
Sack up and build a 44. Then wish you built a 60. Wanna buy a built 44?
I vote weld some 1/2x13 nuts to a piece of plate, and add a few more while you're add it. I'd say 3 or 4 per side, overkill is always better.Thanks. I was hoping it would be something besides a pain in the d!ck. Sounds like fun
Whats really a pain is when they break and your leaf spring nuts snap off in the same day.Thanks. I was hoping it would be something besides a pain in the d!ck. Sounds like fun
Hopefully I'll be doing something similar soon.
Like I said, this sounds fun.
I'm pulling the stock cross member back off tomorrow to finish up the new one. I'll see what's up with it then....
Unless you do 40 sit-ups a day on a strict diet
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