The exhaust actually is going to work I think. My exhaust has already self clearanced itself into my floor board. If it is too tight, I'll massage the floor or notch the crossmember. As far as mounting, for the time being I'm going to use the stock mounting holes just to get it on there. As you can see, the metal sticks out long that the frame rails are. I'm going to fold that metal up around the frame to "hug" it and then run mounting points through the frame. I'm sure the bottom factory bolts won't last long!Timo_90xj said:What are you gonna do with the exhaust? Run a more compact- sized cat and muffler? It's pretty damn tight fight to get a muffler and cat tucked into a flat belly without cutting the floorboards..Flat belly, low stance and large tires is the way to go IMO so you're on the right track
I'm guessing you don't even need to notch the tranny x-member for front DS with the clocked TC? How are you going to mount this thing, weld in an extra support plate to the "ears" and add vertical mounts with crush sleeves through the unibody? Sure looks like a good starting point :thumbsup:
XJ Flat Belly/ X member Build. Is it possible? Let's see....
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Well, thought I'd do a build on this separate from my XJ build. For those who don't know, my XJ is on about 3" of lift and 35's. I wheel my XJ in big pointy rocks that love to rip on anything they can on the bottom of my rig. I love the low stance of my heep and it works well, but it has it's drawbacks. EVERYTHING under my XJ has been taken into consideration because of it's low height. When you are this low, you rub and drag on rocks a lot. Is this a bad thing? Well, if you have the right armor and have clearanced everything that should be, then no. However, I have left one of the most important items untouched and it's way overdue for a replacement. This would obviously be my cross member. The factory X member is weak and hangs below the frame rails. At the same time, the bottom portion of the transfer case also hangs below the frame rails. This holds me up. Some how, I have yet to have exploded my transfer case. In the wheeling trips I have had this year, I have managed to turn the factory X member into an upside down U shape, which actually lifted my transfer case above the frame rails. Still, the cross member hangs too low. In this next pic, I was denied from getting to the top of this rock, even after repeatedly slamming into it trying to bounce and slide the cross member over the rock....
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So, where does this leave me? It leaves me wanting a completely-flat -to-the-frame-rails-cross member, one that is strong, and wanting my transfer case completely out of the way. So first, out with the old....
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To do this cross member, I got a clocking jig
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and some 2x6 3/16 wall
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So after doing some measuring, finding the center, and how much material should be shoved up between the frame rails, I came up with this....
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Using the center point, I kinda (yes, kinda) figured where the trans mount should go. I drilled holes and got this....
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And this is where I leave you hangin' til I get some more work done!
So, where does this leave me? It leaves me wanting a completely-flat -to-the-frame-rails-cross member, one that is strong, and wanting my transfer case completely out of the way. So first, out with the old....
To do this cross member, I got a clocking jig
and some 2x6 3/16 wall
So after doing some measuring, finding the center, and how much material should be shoved up between the frame rails, I came up with this....
Using the center point, I kinda (yes, kinda) figured where the trans mount should go. I drilled holes and got this....
And this is where I leave you hangin' til I get some more work done!
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I've thrown this idea around a good bit. I just can't justify putting that much work into a Dana 30!I've been thinking about the idea of fabbing high clearance axle brackets, that way the lower arms would basically be flat up to around 3" of lift or so.. With a little extended wheelbase and adjustable arms that should work ok.
There are a couple issues though; you'd need to rebuild the upper mounts as well, basically needing to fab a truss (possible fitment issues at full bump). Another problem is the added leverage because of the mounts being fairly far behind axle centerline. Then again, with OTK steering and flat arms the on- road handling should be great, and axle articulation + obstacle climbing abilities when wheeling really good as well.
3- link mid arms or long arms would be great, but they sure are a lot of work.. but so would be high clearance brackets
I'm so stuck on the fence on this.I'm a college student so I don't make all kinds of money. I keep telling myself to stay on 35's until I'm done with school. If I did a 44 swap, I'd then want a 9" or 60 and 37's, do a mid arm 3link, blah blah blah......... :laugh:Kinda thinking the same way
I'd do that, if there weren't the stupid laws here in Finland that prevents me from deleting abs- brakes and running wider track axles..
The thing is, I have no desire to run over 37's/38's.14b and it's parts are actually fairly cheap, but fitting under the XJ is another thing - and that's even more so with HP D60 fronts
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Started back to school today but between classes I got some work done on the cross member. First off, it fits and all the bolt holes line up....
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Then I cut some access slots to the trans mount bolts. No, they aren't perfectly square, but it's going to get thrashed on so who cares? I took one of the pieces of metal I cut out and welded it across the slots on the inside for a little added strength...
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Here is a pic of the whole cross member...
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So I slapped another stock cross member (not bent up one) on so I could get it out of the garage. Tightening up the bolts, one of the bolts just spins in the frame. Did I break a nutsert? What do I do with that?
Then I cut some access slots to the trans mount bolts. No, they aren't perfectly square, but it's going to get thrashed on so who cares? I took one of the pieces of metal I cut out and welded it across the slots on the inside for a little added strength...
Here is a pic of the whole cross member...
So I slapped another stock cross member (not bent up one) on so I could get it out of the garage. Tightening up the bolts, one of the bolts just spins in the frame. Did I break a nutsert? What do I do with that?
Thanks. I was hoping it would be something besides a pain in the d!ck. Sounds like fun
Like I said, this sounds fun.
I'm pulling the stock cross member back off tomorrow to finish up the new one. I'll see what's up with it then....
Hahahaha. 44/9" is something I'm always thinking about.Sack up and build a 44. Then wish you built a 60. Wanna buy a built 44?
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UPDATEZ!
Bent the sides to "hug" the frame....
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Bolted up...
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Painted...
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Now I need to clock the case. I'll probably start on that Thursday. Also, I plan to build a transfer case skid and a trans skid off the x member very soon out of 2" square tube and 3/16" plate.
Bent the sides to "hug" the frame....
Bolted up...
Painted...
Now I need to clock the case. I'll probably start on that Thursday. Also, I plan to build a transfer case skid and a trans skid off the x member very soon out of 2" square tube and 3/16" plate.
ERMAGHERRD this skid is a pig....
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Yeah, I don't trust those for hard wheeling. I'm going to run bolts through the sides of the frame too. Instead of counter sunk bolts, I think I'll get some of the bolt protectors from ballistic fab.Timo_90xj said:At least all that weight is belowe your COG point, so it'll help keep the rubber side down
Looks good, but I'd worry a little about the mounting bolts below the frame.. I'd use countersunk bolts like I mentioned, I'm pretty damn sure you'll rip those off at some point.
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