[Timo_90xj]

What are you gonna do with the exhaust? Run a more compact- sized cat and muffler? It's pretty damn tight fight to get a muffler and cat tucked into a flat belly without cutting the floorboards.. Flat belly, low stance and large tires is the way to go IMO so you're on the right track

I'm guessing you don't even need to notch the tranny x-member for front DS with the clocked TC? How are you going to mount this thing, weld in an extra support plate to the "ears" and add vertical mounts with crush sleeves through the unibody? Sure looks like a good starting point :thumbsup:

 

[Timo_90xj]

As far as mounting, for the time being I'm going to use the stock mounting holes just to get it on there. As you can see, the metal sticks out long that the frame rails are. I'm going to fold that metal up around the frame to "hug" it and then run mounting points through the frame. I'm sure the bottom factory bolts won't last long!

Should work that way..

If I may suggest, you might want to use 10mm countersunk hex-head bolts (class 10.9 or 12.9 so they are hard stuff), then weld another 3/16 plate to the bottom of the "ears" and drill large enough holes where the mounting bolts go through - so large that the head just goes through the hole as well.

This way you will have countersunk bolts, and the additional 3/16" plate both gives you added strength on the key area, and also gives you just that much clearance over the bolt heads so they don't get smashed to rocks as easily. I did the x-member on my ZJ this way, and I've scraped the heck out of it on rocks and so far zero marks on the bolt heads :thumbsup:

 

[Timo_90xj]

Thanks. No long arms on this XJ. I can make short arms work just as well. I'll also have more clearance and making what I'd want (mid arm 3 link) is way more work than I want to put into it right now.

I've been thinking about the idea of fabbing high clearance axle brackets, that way the lower arms would basically be flat up to around 3" of lift or so.. With a little extended wheelbase and adjustable arms that should work ok.

There are a couple issues though; you'd need to rebuild the upper mounts as well, basically needing to fab a truss (possible fitment issues at full bump). Another problem is the added leverage because of the mounts being fairly far behind axle centerline. Then again, with OTK steering and flat arms the on- road handling should be great, and axle articulation + obstacle climbing abilities when wheeling really good as well.

3- link mid arms or long arms would be great, but they sure are a lot of work.. but so would be high clearance brackets

 

[Timo_90xj]

Kinda thinking the same way Swap in a D44?

I'd do that, if there weren't the stupid laws here in Finland that prevents me from deleting abs- brakes and running wider track axles..

 

[Timo_90xj]

14b and it's parts are actually fairly cheap, but fitting under the XJ is another thing - and that's even more so with HP D60 fronts

 

[Timo_90xj]

Yeap.. for those a D44 + D60 or a D60 + 14b combo would be perfect, depending on available power under the hood and/ or driving style.

Until that, keep the 30 and run 35s with not-so-heavy-pedal I had 35s on my XJ with 4.88s, stock shafts (large u-joints) for a couple years and I wasn't too easy on it - yet I never managed to break even a u-joint. My ARB and R&P took a dump on me, but that was because of a casting failure on the ARB and was covered by warranty. D30 actually holds up suprisingly well under an XJ even with 35s as long as you don't do anything overly stupid, like heavy landings at full throttle after launching over a rock ledge Then again, I've broken three shafts on my ZJ niner, I guess the V8 power is a bit too much for the poor turdy.. they were CVs though, let's see how well AlloyUSA cromo- shafts can take the grunt. I'm seeing tooth-fairy paying a visit at the R&P in the future :laugh:

edit: But enough of the BS about this stuff, let's get back to your original subject of the thread, flat belly on the XJ

 

[Timo_90xj]

At least all that weight is belowe your COG point, so it'll help keep the rubber side down

Looks good, but I'd worry a little about the mounting bolts below the frame.. I'd use countersunk bolts like I mentioned, I'm pretty damn sure you'll rip those off at some point.

 

[Timo_90xj]

Looks good! ..now start skinning those rocker support legs so you can slide over the rocks even better and not get hung up on 'em :thumbsup:

 

[Timo_90xj]

Built a blingin' transfercase linkage out of 7/16" heims and some threaded stock. Had to flip the lever on the xfer case, cut it in half and put a 45 degree angle on it, and then welded it back together. Shifts a hell of a lot better and actually feels like it "clicks" into 4 hi and 4 low. Doesn't feel mushy anymore...

Yup, this is one of the single best upgrades for the TC linkage. I've never really understood what's the point behind that multiple- joint thingy that is under there.. It should either be cable actuated, or a single rod like yours is now. The heims allow for enough articulation between engine-tranny-tc-package and unibody on the bumps to not cause any problems. I friend of mine had constant problems with his XJ popping out of 4lo, replaced with two heim joints and all- thread and as far as I know not once has it popped out of 4lo after that! :thumbsup:

 

[Timo_90xj]

I'm thinking I should get it as low as possible being at 4.5" (and maybe more someday).

'00 XJ not quite there..

As low as possible Do you mean as high as possible? You really never want to drop the t-case, if you get driveline problems it's a caster- and pinon angle issue, not a TC being too high

Flat belly is the way to go :thumbsup: