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Oh yeah, had my fully tuned and running in L as well. First order of business was to turn off X band....no LEO's use it around here.
 

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I poked around and found my old programming cheat sheet....this is how I had my V1 setup:

d = down u = up

1 - d
2 - u
3 - u
4 - u
5 - d
6 - u
7 - d
8 - u
A - d
b - d
C - u
d - d
E - u
F - u
G - u
H - u
I - u
J - d
u - u
 

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I had it printed and in the glove box....but when I read your post I thought, hmm, I wonder if i still have that? Sure enough, buried deep down in Documents (Mac person)...there it was....V1 Programming.....I sold that detector a couple years ago when I sold my Vette. Had the V1 for 4 years, and still got $50 less than new $$$ for it. Too bad more electronics don't hold their value like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 · (Edited)
can someone please tell me where to tap into safe power for my hardwire installation later tonight? I really wish the fuse box was behind the glove box. grrr. I have a fused hardwire kit with a fuse-tap on it. I guess I'll take off the fuse-tap and put on a t-splice and use an existing line. looking at the amount of cord I have, the glove box area may be my best bet.

I don't have a tester that works :(

Use the T-splice to tap into the blue/pink wire that feeds the D-side 12v accessory port? Is this accurate? and are there any other options?

cheers and have a fun night fellas.
 

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Got in to this thread late. Tap in to the cig lighter for 12v. It is switched so you'll never leave the detector on by mistake. I used to have Valentine One mounted on the dash. I simply used a black narrow velcro strap to secure it to the dash. Use a few holes from the defroster vents and wrap around the detector. It looked good and worked well. Later realized the JK isn't a speed demon so I sold the V1 on Craigslist. Haven't had a speeding ticket yet. KNOCK ON WOOD
 

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I had the same fused tap from my old V1 hardwire kit. My X50 uses the same RJ11.

I ran the wire through the top plastic at the header, down the A pillar, and then through the firewall. Pull off the plastic cover on the passenger side of the dash, and you'll see a small hole in the firewall, filled with tan foam. Use a straight wire (coat hanger clipped), tape your power tap to it and fish through the hole. It will come out in the space beside the hood, where the wiper motor is. Run it into the engine compartment. I used a multi-meter and found an unused socket in the fuse box that is switched with the ignition and plugged my tap into it. I had to do a little slot with the Dremmel to get the wires into the fuse box and allow it to fully close.

Hard wired, ignition switched. Took about 20 minutes.
 

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Gah I can't decide if I should sell it and use the money for a CB setup, or hardwire it and maybe get the CB down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
If blue/pink floats your boat, go for it. I went with black and later replaced it with a red one. Easy to get any hardware store.
I'm not talking about what color wire to install with. Asking which color wire to tap into, cig wire.
 

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My V1 rides on the passenger visor using the stock V1 visor mount.

I've had good luck countering the problem of the clamp sliding off of the slick visor by wrapping a small piece of black velcro around the mount itself and the extreme left side of the visor just beyond where it clips to the windshield header. I placed the remote unit right under the center vents on the dash.

OK, for all you guys who say, 'why a radar detector in a Jeep?'....because my other cars have them and I feel naked without it. Once you get used to the arrows, you can't live without them! :thumbsup: :cheers2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 · (Edited)
Big props and thanks to Xtremjeepn for inspiring me to do this install last night. When I have some time I'll rewrite this with even more informative tips. I really enjoy this mod.

1. Order extra V1 mount and remove suction cups.
2. Order hardwire kit with integrated mute switch (round).
3. Start to run your wire from the mirror down through p-side door and across back of dash behind glove box.
4. Run the power cord to the cig lighter. Tap into the blue and pink with a t-splice connector. This is a switched 12v source. DRIVE SIDE 12V. There is an inline fuse in the hardwire kit, so it's safe.
5. Run the ground (it's linked to the power cable, so you can't go too far with this) up to the Bottom-left bolt for your stereo or mygig.
6. Drill hole in interior dash panel for mute switch, run switch into hole and lock with included lock washer and nut.
7. Hold up your V1 to desired location and get an idea on where you want it. Remove the radar from the mount. Use a pencil and mark the holes. Drill the holes with a tiny drill bit, to get them started. Insert some small screws.
8. Put the mount on and make sure it all lines up. Put some 3m foam in between to provide a little cushion/dampening.
9. Temporarily install the radar on the mount, if it all looks good, remove unit and tighten screws.
10. Rock n roll.

Again, Xtremjeepn deserves the props for this install. I prefer my switch method b/c my gf likes to hit the mute button, if I'm not paying attention. Xtremjeepn went with a flat mute switch on the steering wheel. Good stuff.

I will leave the mount and switch in the jeep if I resell. Next guy is all hardwired up and ready to go!

#4 Sucks. It's very tight under there, and I don't even have large hands. I should have just run my own power wire from the battery. Or use the extra 12v source that came with my lockpick2 (but I forgot about that).

Cheers.












 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
You're welcome, thank you.

Hey I just took it out for a spin, I do like this location for the mute switch. I can reach it perfectly and it's very comfortable. Yet it's available for the passenger to use it as well, if need be.

Xtremjeepn, did you ever try to keep the screws loose enough that you can slide the mount OFF for long term parking or open air parking? To keep the mount invisible to would be thieves? I have an amazing alarm so it's not a huge concern for me. I just know others would steer clear of this approach for that concern.
 

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Quick question. How do you remove the A pillar panels and the windshield top panel to run the wire?
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Quick question. How do you remove the A pillar panels and the windshield top panel to run the wire?
the top panel is easy to work with. I didn't pull it out. I just slide the wire underneath.

the side panel was tighter. I remove the 1 screw at the top corner, there are 2, only 1 will help you remove the side pillar. I just loosened it I think and slide wire behind it. it is nothing to worry about.
 

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More often than not the officers around here just leave the radar on. CSP is the one exception that ALWAYS runs with it off.

I have been on both sides of the radar/laser gun. I prefer the added situational awareness a GOOD detector brings with it.

Like I mentioned above. I use it to avoid being the radom pick of the day when cruising with the flow of highway commuter traffic.
I got pulled over around '97 in my Porsche in Gaston, NC. Gaston County cop told me he clocked me using VASCAR. It was pouring down rain and I was in the left hand lane in traffic. Sitting in the front seat of his car, I told him "that was total BS and you really just picked me out of the masses because I'm driving a Porsche". The look on his face was priceless. He said that wasn't true, blah, blah, blah. I continued to argue until he invited me to go see the magistrate right now. I declined. But instead of a 75 in a 55 (I think I was doing 68), he wrote me a ticket for "exceeding 55mph" which is basically as bad as running a stop sign.

For those of you who don't know what VASCAR is, the cop basically times your car between two fixed points to estimate your speed. It is very beatable in court due to the amount of error involved.
 
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