Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner
921 - 940 of 979 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
Discussion Starter · #921 ·
I took the day off today to give my leg a break. I'd had a hot spot on my leg also so not wearing my socket for a day was a good thing. I've been wearing a test socket for the VA so it doesn't fit as well as it should.

I got all my parts today for the ARB locker. I have the rest of the lock tabs and new o-rings. So short of installing a new locker there isn't much I can do to it. It's been about 12 years since I've done a gear install but as they say it's like riding a bike. So I hope things come back to me as I go along.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
Discussion Starter · #922 ·
I got the crush sleeve eliminator kit from Jantz Engineering today so I can get the pinion preload set. But I still need to verify the pinion depth before I do that.

Back when I took this axle apart I'd told myself that I was going to wait to weld the truss onto the axle until after I'd gotten the gears setup. Now along the way I forgot that I'd told myself this and the reasons why I wanted to wait. I honestly don't think I had the reasons why clear in my head but just that I should wait.

Well today I figured out ONE BIG reason why I should have waited. ARB wants you to use a case spreader when installing their lockers and I've found it better to use one. But until I make some changes I'm not going to be able to use the case spreader.



I need a 7/8" x 14 tap and the largest I currently have is 3/4". So I've got one on order thru Amazon.



Once I get it I'll drill new holes and tap them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
Discussion Starter · #923 ·
The crush sleeve eliminator kit arrived yesterday from Jantz Engineering. It's nothing more than a spacer and some shims. But I'll keep this in mind when working on other axles with a crush sleeve.





Then I needed to figure out how to torque the ring gear bolts down to 110 lb ft. But the carrier/ARB locker body is over 6" in diameter and I only have a 5" vise. I had a large strap wrench that I wrapped around it and was able to torque all the bolts down.





Also becasue of the load bolt that I'd installed I had to clearance all the bolt heads to not stick out past the machined area of the ring gear.





12 bolt heads really didn't take that long.





My socket wasn't fitting real comfortably so I took it off and propped my leg up on it as I clearance the bolt heads.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
Discussion Starter · #924 ·
This is a LOVE/HATE relationship trying to get this gear pattern right. I don't have to go to the gym for a few weeks after pulling this ARB locker and gear set out and then putting it back in 5-6 times today.





A little too deep.





Took out .010





And then put .005 back in



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
Discussion Starter · #925 ·
The saga of my CRD60 is still going on. After a LOT of people kept telling me that the pinion was too deep I pulled out .020" of shims and came close to walking the pattern off the heel of the teeth.





What was throwing EVERYONE was the sharp line break on the bottom of the pattern. After a lot of discussion with Carl Jantz we've come to the conclusion that it's either this set of gears or something wrong with the housing. Then I sent Carl pictures of how the last gear set had broken and he feels that based on the pattern we're seeing now helps to explain how the pinion teeth broke.

So I put .018" of shims back into the shim stack and ran another set of patterns.





At this point I think this will be the pattern I'll stay with but I need to tighten up the backlash just a little more. Brown Santa dropped off a few packages today.



1) New wheel studs for the rear axles

2) Machined Anti-Rock bushings for the TNT Customs crossmember

3) 7/8" x 14 tap to modify my axle spreader to work with the axle truss.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
Discussion Starter · #926 ·
I got the tap for the case spreader. I'd also ordered a 13/16" drill bit.
First step was to center punch the spreader's arms.



First hole I drilled I used a step drill bit.



There is a heck of a difference between a 9/16 and 13/16 drill bit.



After I got the holes drilled then it was easy to run the tap thru.







And then threaded the threaded pin in the new holes.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
Discussion Starter · #927 ·
I'd been using the old bearings as setup bearings which is how I was taught when doing a gear setup. Then once you have a acceptable pattern then you press on the new bearings. Which is what I did yesterday.



And then I ran into another problem. This seems to be a theme with this axle & my whole Jeep project. I'd checked bearing size and seal size but honestly hadn't thought about the bearing race size being different. I guess I was wrong.

Old races on the right and new races on the left.



The race that goes on the side of the carrier where the air collar is takes a narrower race than what comes with the master install kit.



New one ordered and will be here on Tuesday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
Discussion Starter · #928 ·
OKAY what a total goat screw on this gear install. I fought to get a good pattern but nothing I did seemed to matter. And buddy of mine pointed me to a Facebook group that is for gear installs so I joined it and posted pictures and told my story. After a bunch of questions and suggestions I came up with a course of action. So yesterday I attacked my axle.

I took it all back apart and just started over. I'd gotten hung up on using the previous shim stack as a starting point and it took a while for me to shake that out of my head. So I pulled the inner bearing from the pinion shaft and installed the oil slinger I'd missed that was in the master install box.



Then I put 0.020" of shims behind the inner pinion race and installed the carrier and took a pattern reading. YAHOO I finally got a GOOD pattern.





So I installed another 0.010" of shim to the stack and ran the pattern agian.





Moving in the right direction so I slapped in 0.003" more to the shim stack and also tightened up the backlash to 0.004" and got this.






The only bad out of all this is that I ended up breaking the copper line for the ARB air collar off. It was already in bad shape so I had been worried it was gunna beak at some point. So ordered another one.




I'm going to add another 0.004" to the shim stack to see if I can get the pattern to move a little more to the toe of the gear. But I'd messed up my back yesterday and the pinched nerve in my back flared up so I'm taking a break.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
Discussion Starter · #929 ·
Well the saga of the CRD60 rear axle is almost over (I can only HOPE) I finally got a good pattern and was happy with the backlash and carrier preload.





Then I ran a test of the ARB today only to find out I had a LEAK....

Dang Nab I swear this axle has a death wish for me. So I pulled the carrier back out and took the mangled square o-rings out and installed the round o-rings I'd bought.

Then I started working on the rear brakes. The CRD60 comes from TeraFlex with Explorer brakes installed and IMO they are barley adequate for 35" tires. So after a lot of reading and research I decided to give the Cadillac Eldorado caliper with the built in parking brake a try. So I bought them & brackets from Ruff Stuff and then read some install instructions and watched a couple of videos and then jumped in.

Tacked the brackets on and then burned them in place.







Then once things cooled back off I reassembled the brakes.





Wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.





I'll work on the other side tomorrow and then figure out the brake line routing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
Discussion Starter · #931 ·
I did not like the Eldorado calipers on my Jeep. They were a pain to screw back in to change pads and I couldn't keep them from leaking. I hope you have better luck.
Dang Nab,
I hope I have better luck with them too. I just wanted to try something different than the Explorer brakes as I could never get the parking brake hat to work worth beans. I can always use the non-Eldorado style with these mounts. And then go to a line lock but I didn't want to do that if I didn't have to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
Discussion Starter · #933 ·
I started off straightening the Anti-Rock arms some.



Here is the bent 15" arm compared to a straight 17" arm.



And the bent from Rock Jock 15" arm next to the partly straightened 15" arm.



The arm installed on the bar. I need a little more bend in it as I need to put the heim facing inward.






I cut the stock mounting brackets off to fit on the TJ frame.



And then tacked them in place.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
Discussion Starter · #934 ·
After a lot of thinking and discussion I decided it wasn't going to be a good idea to try and use the tab with the 3 holes off the rear of the axle due to the angle this would put the link at. Instead of chopping up the Currie tab I dug out some other ones I had that used a single hole.



Then just to make sure I wasn't doing all this work for nothing I threw the cast arms on to see if they would clear. Nope no JOY there. So all this bending and straightening will be worth it.



I bent the arms and then went back and bent them again a little bit more, then mounted them up and threw a tire on also to see where I was at.



Then I tacked the lower tabs on so I could try flexing stuff out.





Everything mounted on the passenger side





Then I went and did the same thing to the drivers side.



Axle tab welded on and the link is straight.



I'm going to pick up some thinner lock nuts tomorrow and then cut done the stud on the heim to clear the tire at full stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
Discussion Starter · #939 ·
Howdy all,
Been over working on my nieces bf's car the past few days so I didn't get any Jeep work done.

On Wednesday I pickup my exhaust from getting ceramic coated and MAN did it turn out AWESOME. I can't wait to get this installed and see what the difference in heat is.







And this is coated inside and out. Also for anyone in the PNW that needs something ceramic coated contact Performance Coating in Auburn. They gave me a 15% veterans discount plus fixed a few holes I'd missed when welding all the pie cuts together.



Thursday I'd also ordered a new driveshaft from Tom Woods and as it was my first time I finally got to see what everyone has been talking about. The customer service was great and my new shaft will be here on Tuesday. I can't say enough about how impressed I am.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
Discussion Starter · #940 ·
This is what I have been working on the past few days. I had thought I needed to raise the arm and get it above the tire.





And then I figured out with some suggestions from others that making it shorter and getting below the side tread was actually the better option. So I pieced together some rods using the 6.5" rods for the front and 2" pieces from ORO for the SwayLoc and made some rods that are 8.5" long which is just about the perfect length. So I had to test it out at full droop to make sure it would work.





Then flexed it up to full stuff



The air bags clear at full stuff





It just barley rubs on the tire and I think if I shorten the rods by 0.5" it'll be fine.



I've got a little more trimming to do to the tub also. The tires just barley rub on it at full stuff.



I also received my new front driveshaft from Tom Woods. I got a WOODY.....

 
921 - 940 of 979 Posts
Top