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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tearing down an XJ HP D30 for a regear and swap into my 94 ZJ. When I pulled the wheels hubs off, the hub split in half and left the mounting flange and wheel bearing outer race stuck in the knuckle. Both sides, lucky me. Axle shafts are free. I just can't remove it bc the broken race is frozen in place. Ball bearings and all!
Tried penetrating oil, heat (only from MAPP gas, it's all I've got), BFH, all the usual suspects. No dice.

Suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't care about the wheel bearing, but the knuckles look decent (no brake pad grooves) so I'd like to save them if I can. Id like to save the axle shafts too. They're the big ujoints and they have ABS tone rings installed.
 

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Two options I can give you.

Option 1: Reinstall what came off and tighten the axle nut down. Then use a slide hammer on the wheel studs and see if you can get it free as a unit. Getting the axles out of the hubs is sometimes the hard part and you already have that.

Option 2: Buy new bolts that hold the hub assembly to the knuckle. Thread the old bolts back into the remaining hub part and use them to beat them out of the knuckles.

This is not uncommon. You may need to use some heat to help persuade them out with either method. Start soaking them with penetrating oil, as well.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

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In most cases you don't need to destroy the old bolts or buy new ones. Simply unthread the hub-to-knuckle bolts a few turns, leave the 12-point socket on the bolt. Install a short extension, then turn the steering wheel so that the extension touches the inner C. This will almost always press out the hub from the knuckle. You may need to do it in both directions, or give a few small taps with a deadblow hammer on the socket/ extention.


Your pictures are a perfect example for a couple of things:
1. Why you MUST always have the front axle shaft end nuts torqued to spec. to keep the hubs in one piece.
2. Why you should NEVER use a slide hammer or a puller when removing the hubs if you want to re-use them.
 

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In that case use your socket on the flanged OEM bolts - again opening the bolts just 2-3 full turns - then start with hitting a few sharp hits with a normal hammer onto the knuckle around the hub opening. Then hit the socket with a 5-10lbs. deadblow hammer a few times, alternating the socket on each bolt. Penetrating oil and heat around the knuckle also helps.

I've removed unit bearing hubs that have seen 16-20 years of road salt, and they all have come out fairly easily once you know the technique.
 

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Good air hammer normally pops them right out. Put the air hammer on the ears (where the bolt threads in) which will rotate whats left within the knuckle. Keep hitting it on the opposite sides of the ear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Success! The remains of both hubs are out of the knuckles now. A little damage to dust shield. Knuckles and axle shafts intact. What worked was: Hit it with more penetrating oil spray, both sides, and let it sit overnight. This morning, hit it with the BFH, on each of the three ears, in a rotational direction. Couple good whacks each ear, one direction, then opposite. Like jeepjeepster described.
 

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