Own and drive any brand of vehicle for long enough, and you'll end up needing one sooner or later. A battery boost or jump-start, that is. An empty battery in your car can come from far too many reasons, from a battery nearing the end of its life to somebody accidentally leaving the dome light on.
Whatever the reason for your dead battery, if your Jeep won't start there's one solution: You need a boost. You can get one by calling a tow truck, by relying on a set of jumper cables and the kindness of strangers, or you can get a portable jump pack. Only one of those options lets you get your car started immediately and by yourself, and it's the same option that actually can give you handy portable power whenever you're away from a wall socket.
Portable jump starters, also called battery boosters, jump boxes, and probably a handful of other nicknames all work the same way. They have a small 12-volt battery with enough power to crank over your engine enough times to get it started. From there, everything else is an added bonus feature. Some of those are great, and some of them aren't necessary, but what you want is up to you.
Our pro tip: A battery booster won't give you a boost if it's dead too. So check your portable power pack at least once a month and give it a charge as needed to make sure it's there for you when you need it. Some of the better packs have a light to tell you how much charge they have remaining.
There are several features to decide on, so we also posed the question to the JeepForum.com community. So, without further ado, here are the best portable jump starters for Jeep owners.
Noco's jump boxes were recommended by a handful of users including Goodoldjeep, gmiller0737, kzim93jpz, and more.
The company's GB40 is one of the most popular options, with a 1,000 amp capability that can start gas engines up to 6.0 litres and diesels up to 3.0. Thanks to the lithium-ion battery, it is extremely compact but has enough charge for up to 20 jump starts. It has convenient USB charging (and can provide 5V power to your devices via USB), and easy to see lights to tell you power remaining and to make sure you're properly connected to your car. It even has a flashlight with three power levels to let you see your work, SOS, blink, and strobe functions. All with a convenient storage case.
We had recommendations for the Halo Bolt from users including BenO'K and 93YJ4Fun. Halo has rebranded as Mophie, so we're following along with your recommendations. The company offers plenty of choices, but we like the Powerstation Go with a built-in air compressor. Why? Because it lets you solve two problems in one: a dead battery as well as a flat or low tire. It holds a 15,000 mAH battery that lets you jump start nearly any vehicle. It also includes a compressor that can fill up your tires with an adjustable automatic pressure setting so you can turn it on and walk away. A two-year warranty completes the package making this a great emergency solution for your Jeep.
User hardwaregrrl recommended the Hulkman Alpha85, saying they've been using it for two years. The 85 offers 2000 peak cranking amps, enough to get your car fired up on even the coldest days. Thanks to the lithium-ion battery inside and clever electronics, Hulkman says that their charger can go 18 months in storage without losing charge. The large display tells you exactly how much power you have, if you're charging or discharging, and if you have your car's battery connected properly so you know it's ready to go. It will also give you USB-A, USB-C, and 12V car outlet power to let you charge your portable devices or give you some juice on the road. When it comes time for charging the pack, impressive 65W power lets it top up in under two hours. A fraction of the time of other options.
We put the JNC 660 on the list because some of you said you weren't happy about lithium-ion packs. This is a more conventional jump pack that uses a sealed lead-acid type battery. Plenty of people prefer the old reliable, we get it. Big and bulky, that might take up more room in your trunk, but it's also reassuring compared with some smaller models. Knowing that it can bounce around in your trunk a few times without worry. With 1700 amps of charging, it can start nearly any gas or diesel engine. 46-inch cables mean that you aren't straining to find somewhere to put your jump box where it won't come in contact with moving engine parts once you've started the car. It also has a 12V power plug and an easy-read voltage gauge to let you know when it's time to charge the pack up again before use. The 12V battery is also replaceable, so the unit isn't expensive and hazardous electronic waste down the road.
User flcracker64 asked about the Autowit unit and it's one we put on the list. Why? The innovative design uses a supercapacitor instead of a battery.
The big difference with a capacitor is that it can't help you if your car's battery is fully drained down to near zero volts. Fortunately, that rarely happens. Below 11 is where you'll probably need a boost, and below 9 volts your car is effectively "dead" as far as lights and gauges and the ECU are concerned.
A supercapacitor booster pack draws the low-voltage power remaining in your battery and stores it as 12V power. It can store up to 800-amps this way and can then deliver all of that power at once back to your car when you want to start the engine.
So as long as you have some power left in the battery, a supercapacitor converts that small voltage into the voltage needed to start your engine. It's fascinating, but also complicated. So we understand if you decide to stick with old tech. But this new option can start a gas engine up to 7.0 litres in most conditions without any of the risks of a lithium battery sitting in your trunk.
I could not agree more with with this, with the addional caveat of terminals and cable maintenance, the very 1st step in any code diag. is checking battery and terminal/Cable integrity, are the ends clean and tight on BOTH ends of the cable? Pos AND Neg?
In addition I have seen creeping corrosion at the crimp/under the insulation, radically increase wire resistance under load, (you may not see a volt drop whilst static or under light load).
Then add in a spare battery for those times you are out in the boonies (strapped down in a bat box if wheeling)
Nearly all of my dead battery issues have been from me doing something stupid like leaving on a dome light or other accessory, or just extreme cold temps here in the mountains. Nothing like connecting a warm battery from the house
with #2 Jumpers whilst at 35 below zero to Up the voltage for starting.
In cold areas, I plug in my Jeep. I installed a AC circuit with terminals in the engine compartment and the trunk of my TJ. I have a block warmer and two battery tenders. Warms my oil and keeps my batteries warm also.
Guys,
The OP is looking for information on the specific units, not trying to troubleshoot failures or recommendations for preventing failure.
I'm interested in the final consensus as well, as I would be in the market for one. Unfortunately, I have to cover everything from a sport quad to a 6.7 Cummins, which means either two units (for convience) or a single larger unit.
On a side note, would one of these be a good fit for recharging batteries on a generatorless RV doing extended dry camping?
Jump Starter, AUTOWN 1000A Peak 21000mAh Car Battery Charger with Quick Charge 3.0, 12V Auto Battery Portable Power Pack with Built-in LED Light (AMAZON)
Will start anything you have, i have 2 one for CJ one for JK Bought one in 2018 and a recent one of the same in 2021 I am amazed what these do and from the looks of it this its not starting nothing, not so it will start most anything you hook it to.
My TJ has a dual battery system. I have two AGM batteries with a 240 amp alternator. I have a switch inside the cab which designates which battery I am using or which one I am charging. I also have a Warn set of jumper cables hooked up to my second battery for helping others. My Jeep pulls a 1943 Bantam Army trailer which also holds a Solar Generator, brand name Jackery. The generator powers my two Engel refrigeration units plus my medical equipment. I've had this set up for 18 years, no problems. I also run a 1000 watt inverter, two winches and six Australian off road lights. That's what happens when you are a retired mechanic.
I as well am retired and have similar setup on my TJ. Dual AGM batteries, large alternator (don’t remember the amp rating but well over 200), battery isolator with three position switch (both batteries, charge both, one battery run and charge) prevents draining your back up battery. I only have one winch and an extreme duty high lift jack but so for never needed two winches. On this rig so for with about 8,000 miles off road I have only used it for pulling others out or moving objects out of my way. There just is not a feasible mounting location without it hanging in my way, relocating the fuel tank (not a hood option on a TJ) or carry a portable hitch mount. That is not a good option for me either at this time. We barely have enough room for the two of us with our gear. Maybe on another build some day.
I have on past vehicles wished I had a second winch on the rear either for myself ir someone stuck or off trail behind me. Maybe on a future build someday.
I'm probably in the minority here, but I have the least expensive jump box that Harbor Freight had on sale a year ago. It has 2 USB ports, 2 Lighter Ports, a work light and an air compressor. I take it in whatever vehicle I'm in. So far I've used the light a bunch, the compressor about 4 times, the lighter socket for boon docking with a CPAP machine, the battery function to change fluids with a 12v pump about 6 times and as a battery when my alternator went out deep in the State Forest. So far it's keeping a good charge and for $45 I already got my moneys worth.
The guy is asking about a portable jump starter recommendation.
I agree with all the posts on maintenance, prevention, and so on. But that's not what he's asking.
I think a dual battery is a great solution for a lot of people. But that's not what he's asking.
The jumper I posted above has started everything I have used it on, up to a 26' diesel box truck. Was completely surprised by that one, but it didn't even need any extra fiddling.
I have also had the cheap battery box similar to the one lwbfl just mentioned. The major downside to those is that it's a lead acid battery, and won't last as long and is definitely larger and heavier.
The benefit that he was able to use it as a battery which is impressive and smart. And it has a few other convenient functions as well.
Keep it on track guys. Everything you guys posted is great info. Just irrelevant to this thread. Mostly.
My jump starters have been used more to help stranded people than for my own vehicles. Back in the day I would have to move my car into position, open hoods, connect cables, and so on. Not that I mind helping people, but that's a time consuming drag.
Now I see someone in need of a jump and I grab my small book sized kit, open it up, attach to the battery. They start up. Close hood and they are on their way in minutes. So much better, quicker, efficient. And every single person I've ever helped like this has been amazed by that small little item and planned on buying one for their car. They didn't even know something that small could do it. They were in the huge heavy battery jumper mindset that didn't make sense to lug around. Every person that buys one of these gems for their car is potentially one less family stranded. It's at the very least another person that can help another stranded motorist because it makes it easy for them to help.
A dual battery setup is awesome, but it can't do those things. There's a place for these jumpers. They just want to know what the best one is.
I have been though a lot of BS with jump packs, even the "good ones"
so whats the best?
a spare battery,
Yup a full size spare battery
and just swap them from time to time in a running vehicle
gives you the chance to service the terminals and add water.
and it seems I need it in something long before it goes bad
and I then just buy a new one as the rotating spare.
You spend just as much as the socalled GOOD jump packs
but over time you actually get to use it so the cost is near nil.
Stick a cheap set of replacement cable terminals on it so you don't
tear up the posts with jumper cables and charger clamps.
Best advice, some jeeps have space for a second battery under the hood. Wire it in with a CB and before you go out , trip it so you have a fully charged battery ready 24/7.
The guy is asking about a portable jump starter recommendation.
I agree with all the posts on maintenance, prevention, and so on. But that's not what he's asking.
I think a dual battery is a great solution for a lot of people. But that's not what he's asking.
A dual battery setup is awesome, but it can't do those things. There's a place for these jumpers. They just want to know what the best one is.
Not talking about a dual battery setup, I am talking about a spare battery, period, that and a set of jumper cables.
I went so far as to even install the battery in a stranded car one time as theirs was shot, it was sat night in isolated WY
with no hope of getting a new one, The 34 was correct orientation, cleaned their terminals and checked for charging all for a very fair price, ( the cost of replacement) I am nice that way.
A spare battery costs no more the the so called better grade chineseum Lithium and it will out last and actually get used whereas you will toss out the jumper when it dies. Yes you have charge both, from time to time.
I don't trust the Chinese Lithiums at all. I would recomenfd NONE of them.
#1 You forget about in the trunk and when they discharge below threshold voltage
they can go runaway, God forbid it's in your garage should this occur.
#2
The issue of storing jump starters in car (where they should be stored frankly) seems to pose some risk as consumer reports state below. Unfortunately it is still very hard to find products with relevant storage temperatures.
"All of the jump starters we tested had a maximum recommended operating/storage temperature, ranging from 120 degrees Fahrenheit for ... up to 185 degrees for ....
That's a major concern: According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), the temperature inside of a car parked in direct sunlight can reach between 131 and 172 degrees Fahrenheit when the temperature outside is between 80 and 100 degrees. In hot desert areas, the inside temperature can rise even higher.
Unfortunately, the device manufacturers were guarded on the potential consequences of storing these units at high temperatures. Complicating matters, it's the fact that most of the units list their temperature ranges (operating or storage) in the instructions, but not on the product packaging" Jump Starter Buying Guide
That kinda cracks me up. If you use a cell phone, you have a Chinese made lithium battery. If you have a laptop, you have a Chinese made battery. Even if you have a desktop computer, you have a (small button CMOS) Chinese battery.
I get that the stuff from China is labeled as cheap. I'm not for how their government goes about their business either. But one thing doesn't equal the other.
There is plenty of Chinese junk made. There is plenty of junk made everywhere, including in the United States. Would i prefer buying American? Yes.
Chinese, as well as products made in most countries, is made to spec. If you give cheap specs, it's a cheaply made product. If you give great specs, you get a great product (most of the time).
Being in the tech world for way too many years, I saw this in action constantly. Take laptops for instance. There are, or were, 4 laptop factories. Some brands are amazing. Strong, bullet bulletproof, well made, whatever you want to call the brand. Some brands just suck. They are cheap, flawed, and a general pain in the rear.
What's the difference? They were all made in the same 4 factories. They built then to the specs given by the OEM. The specs decide what's cheap and crappy, not the factory or where it's located.
Again, I am NOT advocating buying Chinese over other products. I am for being aware of what you're saying vs what you want to be true. If it costs a few bucks more for something and I have the choice, I'll buy American. If I have the choice of buying something made cheap and crappy over something that works and is well made, I'll spend my money on the better product.
By the way, my jump starters have been in my cars for years. Sometimes in the back seat in the middle of summer in California and I know the temps are higher than I should want to store these. I don't lose any charge due to heat.
The guy is asking about jump starters.
Your answer is like someone asking about what spark plug is best and you telling them that they need an LS swap, because that's what worked for you. I get the strong feelings regarding China. I have them too. It's not relevant to the question.
That kinda cracks me up. If you use a cell phone, you have a Chinese made lithium battery. If you have a laptop, you have a Chinese made battery. Even if you have a desktop computer, you have a (small button CMOS) Chinese battery.
I get that the stuff from China is labeled as cheap. I'm not for how their government goes about their business either. But one thing doesn't equal the other.
There is plenty of Chinese junk made. There is plenty of junk made everywhere, including in the United States. Would i prefer buying American? Yes.
Chinese, as well as products made in most countries, is made to spec. If you give cheap specs, it's a cheaply made product. If you give great specs, you get a great product (most of the time).
Being in the tech world for way too many years, I saw this in action constantly. Take laptops for instance. There are, or were, 4 laptop factories. Some brands are amazing. Strong, bullet bulletproof, well made, whatever you want to call the brand. Some brands just suck. They are cheap, flawed, and a general pain in the rear.
What's the difference? They were all made in the same 4 factories. They built then to the specs given by the OEM. The specs decide what's cheap and crappy, not the factory or where it's located.
Again, I am NOT advocating buying Chinese over other products. I am for being aware of what you're saying vs what you want to be true. If it costs a few bucks more for something and I have the choice, I'll buy American. If I have the choice of buying something made cheap and crappy over something that works and is well made, I'll spend my money on the better product.
By the way, my jump starters have been in my cars for years. Sometimes in the back seat in the middle of summer in California and I know the temps are higher than I should want to store these. I don't lose any charge due to heat.
The guy is asking about jump starters.
Your answer is like someone asking about what spark plug is best and you telling them that they need an LS swap, because that's what worked for you. I get the strong feelings regarding China. I have them too. It's not relevant to the question.
Let me help you out by quoting the original post.........
To figure out the best available options, we wanted to ask the JeepForum members what they think is the best portable jump starter available to get their Jeep up and running again. Once we get some replies, we will follow up here and update the original post so the community can use this as a resource going forward.
Comparing the power density of cell phones and laptops is an apple to oranges characterization
Those batteries by definition are internally current limited, the antithesis of a jump starter. Neither should be left in a smoking hot car either. Esp day after day after day.
A good friend always kept his cordless tool batteries in his truck, in the sun, his batteries ( same brand and age as I have) never lasted nearly as long as mine, we bought a 12 pack together, Wholesaler case. 4 of his failed and one with smoke but the over protection current limiiter did keep it sort of in check. I keep mine in a bag and drop them on the cool concrete floor. Since we worked on similar jobs the usecase is about the same.
I hate we have allowed china to dominate our essential goods, I consider it Treasonous and a National security risk.
If you NEED frequent jumps, you have a maint problem that will ultimately cost far more down the line. Alt,starter, ECM issues and on.
and NO, spark plugs vs engine swap is ludicrous,
The question is which chinese small lithium battery should I buy for jumping my big one.
buy another big one for the same cost.
I have the hulkman and have only used it twice. I’ve been storing it in a bin in my roof rack and I’m in Georgia. It’s so far not dropped below 94% after 2 years of owning. I charge it twice a year.
My input is it depends on what Jeep you’re needing to start. I have a NOCO GB40 which I’ve used successfully on various SUV’s and trucks. It will not crank my JL. JL are equipped with two batteries with gas engines that are non-hybrid. There’s a fair bit of discussion on the web about battery failure and the challenge of jumping one of these.
So I’ll be following with hope of reading some recommendations for a superior jump box.
I have the hulkman and have only used it twice. I’ve been storing it in a bin in my roof rack and I’m in Georgia. It’s so far not dropped below 94% after 2 years of owning. I charge it twice a year.
In the past I have had the lunch box heavy boat anchor style. They work great but they are heavy and bulky. I used to use it to run the landing gear on my 5th wheel flat bed that I dont use enough to justify keeping a battery in. It worked great for that as well. When it finally died I replaced it with a very small compact unit from MATCO tools. It was awesome and worked great until I loaned it to a co worker and he knocked it off a fender into a pan of antifreeze and destroyed it. Right now I am running a NOCO GB70 and it will start cars like there is no tomorrow. The onlt draw back is the "smart" system on these units prevents it from operating if the battery is shot, like a dead cell or something like that, and it can not be used as a battery on my old trailer. I have to keep a battery on hand for that trailer now.
Yeah 8000 mah... at roughly 3.7- 4.xx volts..... Here is the the Scam: inside all of these you will find 3 or in some cases of the larger ones, 4 Lithium pouch batteries. They are fully charged in the 4 volt range and contain roughly in the 2700 mah range each. SOOOOOOOOO 3 X 2700mah = roughly 8000 mah actually 2666 X 3...
AND you would indeed get your 8000mah if they were connected in parallel but that would not work in this Use Case so they are connected in series to get you the Voltage of 12 so you have only the 1/3 or in the case of the larger 4 cell, 1/4 the label rated mah.
As an alternative depending on brand you might find 18650s or the 27000 series cells,
in any case they derive the rated capacity from the the mah of each cell x the # of cells
as if they were in parallel and not in series as they are to get to the voltage required.
Additionally oft times the chinese cells wildly overate the mah capacity of the cells whereas
the japanese cells are far more accurate in terms of actual vs stated capacity.
I found this to be the case when rebuilding laptop and cordless packs. As a rule the Jap made Sanyo cells far and away outlasted the chinesium cells and with the work involved in rebuilding a pack it was a nobrainer choice, esp on expensive Laptop and other high end applications.
The china cells varied wildy in capacity/life and quality. One dead cell in a series pack and the whole pack is shot. On larger packs you some times found a combo series /parallel to keep the voltage the same but doubled capacity, You always sought the current limited versions to keep the cells from overheating in high draw applications and battery balancing circuitry to keep them all evenly charged. Cells of this type were never made to dump all of their capacity in a few seconds as the jump starters use them for. They are made for certain level of output for many minutes to many hours of operation. That is the proper Use Case.
A similar case is to be made over a typical car starting battery which is designed for short periods of high output starting amps the size and mass to mitigate heat and large current flow paths Vs the deep cycle low amp output for hours/days Lead acid is very forgiving in this application if quickly recharged with the alternator.
Whereas there certainly have been improvements in lithum types of batteries most are the standard moderate output over time and are shoehorned into a improper use case of dumping energy like a capacitor.
I rebuilt packs from way back in the NiCad days to the NiMh and then the latest lithium versions.
A good quality pack will NOT start a fully dead battery as the protection circuit will not allow current flow without sensing a threshold voltage to prevent runaway. If it does work, it is missing the protection circuit and the safety that offers.
It's totally mis-leading... Imagine if you will, that car battery Manus listed out the CCA capacity of each 2 bolt cell then
multiplies that x 6, nobody plays that game cause they are fully understood and all the testers out there would show the BS in 1 second... Oh Yeah your 750 CCA car battery has 4500 CCA at 2.1 volts... if they were connected in parallel... Same thing. Your 8000 mah listed pack is 2700+/- mah at the in series voltage of 12.xx.
AND the OP is a marketing sales weasel looking for free market research to sell things Not just some Jeeper guy.
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