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· Think Outside the Catalog
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If it’s under $100 for the modified advance part I might be inclined to wait for that if it’s only a week or two out.
It's $138. I looked at the metallurgy again and think it might also be heat treated. I'm going to wait for the Adv Adapt replacement.

For the past 6 months I heard squeaking when pressing the cllutch pedal and thought the release bearing may just be doing it. Turned out that tube (in photo above) had broken off and was floating on the trans input shaft, and the release bearing was frozen solid, and some of the tips of the clutch little release levers were broken off. I've got enough other Jeep mini-chores to keep busy while waiting for the part. I also have a test next week to study for in my Anthropology class.
 

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It's $138. I looked at the metallurgy again and think it might also be heat treated. I'm going to wait for the Adv Adapt replacement.

For the past 6 months I heard squeaking when pressing the cllutch pedal and thought the release bearing may just be doing it. Turned out that tube (in photo above) had broken off and was floating on the trans input shaft, and the release bearing was frozen solid, and some of the tips of the clutch little release levers were broken off. I've got enough other Jeep mini-chores to keep busy while waiting for the part. I also have a test next week to study for in my Anthropology class.
Amazing it still worked.


I wonder if I shot myself in the foot by using the Teraflex SSSYE. I would love to have an output shaft brake like Tom and that other guy have, and that Partsmike kit looks great. It only works with a flange output though. I suppose I could custom-weld my own flange output shaft, but it'd be better to get a real part.
OR... I could cut a custom plate out and weld it to the output yoke. That might work.


Anyway, today I loaded the YJ and TJ up on the flatbed. Time to go wheeling again.
 

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Cage tie-ins created last night. Also double as rear body mounts. So no longer need to create a spot for those to mount on the rear frame.

View attachment 4174172


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I like that... I was just pondering where I was going to tie in...
 

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Amazing it still worked.


I wonder if I shot myself in the foot by using the Teraflex SSSYE. I would love to have an output shaft brake like Tom and that other guy have, and that Partsmike kit looks great. It only works with a flange output though. I suppose I could custom-weld my own flange output shaft, but it'd be better to get a real part.
OR... I could cut a custom plate out and weld it to the output yoke. That might work.


Anyway, today I loaded the YJ and TJ up on the flatbed. Time to go wheeling again.
I don't see why you just cant swap the output flange.... Its the dame diameter as the yoke you have... you'll also have to have your DS modified to mate to the flange... Call/ email either Partsmike to Tom woods... Doesn't add a significant amount of length at all
 

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Well, the TJ is down. Got about 200 yards into the first trail and she rammed a rock and took out the seal on the power steering box. Probably cracked the box, because it leaks more when you try to steer. Putting it back on the trailer. Time to use all five seats in the YJ again. 😁
Well that just sucks. Sorry about your luck. Having two rigs though....... priceless.
 

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Well, the TJ is down. Got about 200 yards into the first trail and she rammed a rock and took out the seal on the power steering box. Probably cracked the box, because it leaks more when you try to steer. Putting it back on the trailer. Time to use all five seats in the YJ again. 😁
If you're not rammin rocks, you're not having fun.
 

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Well, all I got was some rock rash on one of my wheels. I didn't flop on my side this time, but some other guy did exactly what I did last year and flopped in the same crack I did. Hydrolocked his JL on oil. Took an hour to pull the plugs and clear the engine. Guess how long that takes on a 242 or 258.

I don't think the steering box is cracked, but the seal is definitely blown. Dunno if it's likely that the housing is damaged if the seal blew.
 

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I don't think the steering box is cracked, but the seal is definitely blown. Dunno if it's likely that the housing is damaged if the seal blew.
One of the things that I thought of is that the sector shaft could have gotten bent. They are still available and serviceable. I will not lie, I have not replaced one since the mid 80s but did a few of them back then. Cars that were in collisions where they were hit in the front side would sometimes twist them. That was back when we tore down many components and repaired them in the shop rather than replace them. Insurance companies paid to replace the shaft rather than the gearbox. If your shaft is bent, I am certain that you are capable of making the repair.
 

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So I was making a list of things I need to work on with the TJ and YJ (ignoring the MJ again, lol).



When I noticed something going on with the front of the TJ.





She hit that rock really hard apparently. By the way, zero damage to the bumper I built for that Jeep. The bumper hit first, jumped the ledge and then the tire hit with full momentum.




Anyway, now I know why the steering wheel is upside down. That control arm and mount are definitely borked. I'm gonna have nearly everything off the front axle anyway when I'm rebuilding the steering box and putting the lift springs on. Guess I'll just pull the axle, cut the old mount off and weld a new one on. Not sure if the track bar is bent more than normal, but it'd have to be for the axle to be shifted over so much.



 

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cut the old mount off and weld a new one on
Before you do that, laminating som 14ga and ‘boxing’ the flanges with 16ga Will strong them up to over double the factory strength. Don’t know if Barnes or someone has beefy oem-configured ones or not?
I know with YJ up front spring shackle hangers just a small 1/8”x3/8”x2” piece welded across the top front of them stopped my bending them. Just have to stop what’s possible from being possible and make the weld joint the effective weak spot. If you tear that you probably have much worse problems.
Automotive tire Tread Tire Motor vehicle Bumper

Boxing that up with just 16ga and laminating the insides with 16ga with C shapes, and dropping a couple 16ga cross pieces in there will probably be strong as anything you could buy. And pretty quick to do.
 

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That's a good idea, Fish. I need to probably make the lower control arms longer anyway, since it's getting 3.5" lift springs. I have no idea how MUCH longer, but since I'll be doing that anyway, I may as well beef up the brackets and make new lower control arm center sections. I'm assuming I can press out the rubber bushings, and then weld a new control arm between the bushing sleeves. No idea how any of this coil spring suspension stuff works though.
 

· Think Outside the Catalog
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I'm going to wait for the Adv Adapt replacement.
This part that Adv Adapt said would ship on Mar 12th... showed up TODAY... and it's the right part! I'll probably have the Jeep running by the end of the month, not end of next month! Still a few mini jobs before my buddies come over to help me put the trans and t-case go back in.
 
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