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. 7/8" drill bit and tapered sleeves.
I highly recommend not using sleeves but buying the needed reamer instead.

I had a lot of problems with the sleeves - like four or five do-overs and several new TREs and tapered sleeves- but when I welded into the knuckle and used the reamer it not only fit right but it’s still tight and correct today 20k-miles later.

The reamer was ~$100 but I spent several hundred dollars trying to make the inserts work. It would have been 2/3 less money to just buy the reamer to begin with and no do-over time.
 

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I highly recommend not using sleeves but buying the needed reamer instead.
Here's the reamer I have. I've used and loaned mine out to friends for many years. Works great and lasts as long as you don't abuse it

 

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I’ve been running inserts for 5 years and 30k miles on my XJ without issue. Crossover steering using WJ knuckles and GM TRE’s. I do now own a tapered reamer and the last few XJ/MJ/YJ’s I have built unused a reamer, but the inserts on my first build are still holding up fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
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the inserts on my first build are still holding up fine.
That’s good.

i had several issues. I broke one out on a rough trail (weld stayed, insert broke) and then the repetitive one: the tre coming loose in the taper and wearing out the hole,or wearing the TRE, or both.
It turns out during the 5th rinse and repeat I had a brand new Moog TRE and a brand new uninstalled insert in my hand at the very same time and I discovered the insert taper was loose on the tre and wouldn’t lock on the taper.
I borrowed a reamer and found the insert didn’t match it, either.

I welded into the knuckle, drilled it 1/2” to get it somewhere near round, and then carefully reamed it. I lightly whacked the tie rod end in the resmed hole with the cordless drill and it stuck so hard I needed the 3# hammer to get it out.

They can keep their stinkin’ inserts

DOING IT RIGHT IS FASTER AND CHEAPER
 

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I highly recommend not using sleeves but buying the needed reamer instead.

I had a lot of problems with the sleeves - like four or five do-overs and several new TREs and tapered sleeves- but when I welded into the knuckle and used the reamer it not only fit right but it’s still tight and correct today 20k-miles later.

The reamer was ~$100 but I spent several hundred dollars trying to make the inserts work. It would have been 2/3 less money to just buy the reamer to begin with and no do-over time.
I had planned on taking the steering Over the Knuckle. Reaming out in the reverse direction will not work AFAIK. I had planned on reaming the pitman arm as the direction is the same.

Any suggestions on solving the OTK issue without using inserts?

Luuca
 

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Reaming out in the reverse direction will not work AFAIK
Aren’t the one-ton ends a fatter stub in the taper? Same taper, just bigger by a bit? I could be wrong but I thought that was true.

In my case I got the knuckle mount area hot with a propane torch and welded around the inside perimeter of the hole. Then drilled it to center up a bit, then reamed it. But I used the factory YJ-sized tie rod ends.
 

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Aren’t the one-ton ends a fatter stub in the taper? Same taper, just bigger by a bit? I could be wrong but I thought that was true.

In my case I got the knuckle mount area hot with a propane torch and welded around the inside perimeter of the hole. Then drilled it to center up a bit, then reamed it. But I used the factory YJ-sized tie rod ends.
Once the kit comes in, I'll look at the clearances and decide if I really want to ho OTK or in UTK config to save some math. UTK I will ream out the knuckles from stock to 1 ton. We will see.
 

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1994 YJ and a 92 XJ
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Was thinking about this one:

the TRE's for this are sold cheap on Amazon as returns all the time (Moog) and I always buy them to have spares for my 1 ton steering. Had the Rugged ridge set up on my XJ and bent the tie rod, guess my 35s said goodbye tie rod. Just bought some DOM and doing that set up for it. .
 

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Sorry to post here but there is no thread labeled "What couldn't I do to my YJ today".

Or a thread about "why omix parts suck"

Or a thread about "The end years of AMC and good luck even with the factory parts manual"

I finally got around to replacing my plastic valve cover tonight on the 87. I was never able to directly cross over the original part number to anything that is still made. I was never able to find an OEM one. NOS or otherwise.
so I went with one that says it fits an 87 YJ. I did recognize that it needs 2 rocker bridges with studs that go through the top of the valve cover which mine does not have. So I got the bridges and what not and the cover has the correct amount of bolt holes, etc. Should be good to go. I will make the slight change to make it work. My stock valve cover has 2 ish inch long bolts on the passenger side that are shouldered. The new cover came with shorter bosses in the cover which I recognized in the pics, but it came with shorter bolts. No problem.

Screeeeeeccchhhh. Upon installation, the new bolts are 5/16", my shouldered bolts are 1/4". The holes for the rocker bridges are not lined up, in binds on them. I found some 1/4" bolts in the new bolt bin in the shop to replace the bolts on the passenger side..... The freaking holes in the cover do not line up. It is molded poorly. It would take a lot of dremel or die grinder work to make it fit. This is frustrating. I researched and researched this knowing that it was not the exact same valve cover and did not exactly cross reference but I thought I had the differences covered. I got my shorts yanked down from behind on this one. Oh boy. Some mechanics dictionary words flew for sure.

Either way. If the omix cover had any quality to it, I would have been able to stick my 1/4 inch bolts into it. The holes are so far off that it is pathetic. Like half a bolt hole or more once you get one started. Dang, it should be more forgiving seeing that I am trying to use smaller OD bolts. What a piece of crap.

The good news is that I looked up the original cover part number and googled it and somebody has a new OEM Mopar superceeded part number one on Fleabay. Wth? Have never found one before. Lets order this one and hope we do not get bent over further. It is only money.

After all the money and time we have thrown at the house, property, and pool this year, I do not feel guilty about spending another $115 for a valve cover that I am pretty sure may work, but then again maybe not. There has been no time for the Jeep and the Jeep has been watching me spend money and time on everything else. I think the Jeep has a mind and just wanted me to spend a little extra time with her. She is not a dumb girl.

Really crossing my fingers that after all the BS and searching for a long time and never finding the correct cover that this OEM cover that looks legit and popped up luckily while in a desperate situation and being totally POd and could not find one over and over and over is the real deal.
 

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Lots of words
I would almost guarantee there is some configuration that matches the omix valve cover you got. It really is a crap shoot with the late AMC / early Chrysler stuff. I went with a cast aluminum cover when my original plastic one split many years ago. It fit great, but did require drilling and taping holes in the head. Hopefully the new old one you found works out.
 

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Finally got my order of 2/0 pure copper cable for the winch, and the 6ga I need for the fancy fuse/relay box and the feed for the inverter.
yes - inverter. I’m installing a spare 1200W pure sine inverter to run an electric chainsaw, make fresh coffee, and charge 20V tools. Can’t do anything it’s been raining for four days now.
Frustrated because I can’t open my driver’s door from inside or out anymore. I’m getting antsy on getting the parts. It’s been raining for four days and climbing across the jeep or fussing around with driver’s door is making me nuts!
 

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I am fully aware of the aluminum valve covers. I am trying to keep this Jeep original right down to the garbage plastic valve cover. Also. Me being me, I would not drill and tap the head for the aluminum cover without pulling the head and doing it on either a drill press or a mill. I just would not do it any other way.
 
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I took mine off-road to test the new t-case. Works fine. I don't think I'll miss 4:1 with the trails I visit these days.
If the T-case holds you back, just throw an LS in it and you will be fine. ;)
 
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