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Those look good, but with most aftermarket diff covers you are still only supposed to fill to the factory level. They usually aren’t actually much bigger. Most lockers fit just fine behind a factory differential cover. Overfilling will likely result in a leaky wheel seal.


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While I would love a drain plug on diff covers that is the one of the things that keep me from buying them.
At least with the ARB's you have the dipstick.
I figured if I bought them would put the proper amount in according to the specs and mark the dip stick.
While I know it it probably a waste of time I check my diff level with every oil change.
I open it up, give a squirt, let the excess dribble out, and cap it off.
With some aftermarket covers cause of what you said, no dipstick like the ARB, you can't do that and never really know where you are at.
 

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Those look good, but with most aftermarket diff covers you are still only supposed to fill to the factory level. They usually aren’t actually much bigger. Most lockers fit just fine behind a factory differential cover. Overfilling will likely result in a leaky wheel seal.


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Thanks for your comment Red.
This is a very big, very heavy solid steel cover. With this cover if you only add the amount of fluid in the OEM specs I don't think it will even reach the bottom of the very long dipstick. I might have gone a little overboard but after holding up the standard cover next to the new one I think the current fluid levels are less than an inch higher than stock.
 

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Cut off another mounting plate for the old rock sliders and started working on the new ones. Got the front all ready to weld the stiffeners on but have been waiting on my friend to help me weld. I really need to learn how to weld.


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Its been a little while but i finally finished the front stiffeners. Hoping to finish the center and the rock sliders this weekend.
I had to get longer bolts for the top of the track bar bracket. I cut my own piece of metal to put the bolts through. I made it bigger than the stock one to increase the surface area. I had to cut the track bar bracket on the bottom so that the bolts could line up with the nut on the frame. One of the welded nuts on the frame was stripped and came off. I bought a new bolt and nut but still need to weld the nut to the frame. I will be putting a bead on the top and bottom of the bracket just to make sure that it doesn't come off in the future. I like having the piece of mind.



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My bumper came with 3/16" tie in plates. The frame stiffeners i bought were the same thickness so it allowed me to just remove the plates and weld in the stiffeners. The stock bumper only has 3 bolts, 2 little nut clips and one nut welded on the inside of the frame. The bumper used 4 bolts, so i added some plate to the stiffeners to accommodate the 4th bolt. I really like how it turned out. I was able to use 3 larger diameter bolts and the one stock size bolt, making the bumper even stronger in the process.
I always see people cutting off their frame stiffeners so that it doesn't interfere with the bumper brackets. I think they are really missing out on a lot of added strength. Some day i would like to plate the inside of the frame rail on the driver side to ensure that the steering box never rips the jeep apart.
All of the bolts lined up with no issues and installing the bumper was easier than it was in the past!



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I did this a couple months ago now, but close enough. Last summer I had some overheating issues in stop and go traffic when it was above 90 and I had the A/C running, even after I installed a new radiator toward the end of summer (the original unit started leaking profusely). I also replaced the water pump over the winter when the seal let loose, so this isn't entirely scientific, but I'd heard some people on the forum here report pretty significant reductions in intake temp with a cowl snorkel and I figured that couldn't hurt.

I bought a Spectre intake duct and a couple flanges and sealed off the front of the airbox with a 3D printed plug (overkill, but fun) and some epoxy, and went ahead and threw the hole saw at the firewall. It touches the hood, but doesn't prevent it from closing and it fits around the clutch master cylinder. I haven't noticed any change in intake noise, which is what I wanted. I haven't gotten the water temp above an indicated 210 at any point during the hottest parts of this summer, and I'm counting the higher intake location as a bonus.

Also, I know some people are afraid of placing the intake on the side of the cowl that is not covered, but I've sprayed the garden hose directly into the cowl aimed toward the intake and it's been fine. Still, I did leave a couple drain holes at the bottom of the airbox just in case.

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Im going to be checking out an 88 MJ this weekend that Im thinking about trading an 89 YJ for. It is a 2.5 AX4 2wd short bed. I have plenty of Jeeps but never actually checked out an MJ before. What are some things I should be looking out for? TIA

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Im going to be checking out an 88 MJ this weekend that Im thinking about trading an 89 YJ for. It is a 2.5 AX4 2wd short bed. I have plenty of Jeeps but never actually checked out an MJ before. What are some things I should be looking out for? TIA

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Almost anything is fixable. I’d just take a look for excessive rust, and super jacked up wiring. These vehicles are pretty old at this point, and there’s the potential that previous owners have made a mess of things. I picked up an 89 MJ about 2 years ago now and am still loving tinkering with it and using it for canoe trips and hardware store runs.


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Almost anything is fixable. I’d just take a look for excessive rust, and super jacked up wiring. These vehicles are pretty old at this point, and there’s the potential that previous owners have made a mess of things. I picked up an 89 MJ about 2 years ago now and am still loving tinkering with it and using it for canoe trips and hardware store runs.


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Thanks for the response. He says it came from the south so the rust is minimal. He said a small spot on both driver and passenger floor boards but the frame/unibody is solid. He did say that the turn signals were not working when he first got it. Instead of figuring out why, he bypassed the factory turn signal stuff and ran his own switch and wiring that work. Ive had dozens of different jeeps so its not totally new to me, I just never had the chance to mess with an MJ. I currently have two YJs, a 2 door XJ, two WJs, an 88' s10 pick up, a 72' nova, 10' Ram 3500 and a 16' subi lol

I dont totally know why I want one so bad lol it will serve the same purpose the s10 does but atleast it will be a jeep. Maybe someday I might make it 4wd with an AX5 and tcase from a YJ so it can be a winter beater truck. It comes with a donor XJ with a 4.0 and AW4 but I dont think Im going to go through that whole process
 

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Thanks for the response. He says it came from the south so the rust is minimal. He said a small spot on both driver and passenger floor boards but the frame/unibody is solid. He did say that the turn signals were not working when he first got it. Instead of figuring out why, he bypassed the factory turn signal stuff and ran his own switch and wiring that work. Ive had dozens of different jeeps so its not totally new to me, I just never had the chance to mess with an MJ. I currently have two YJs, a 2 door XJ, two WJs, an 88' s10 pick up, a 72' nova, 10' Ram 3500 and a 16' subi lol

I dont totally know why I want one so bad lol it will serve the same purpose the s10 does but atleast it will be a jeep. Maybe someday I might make it 4wd with an AX5 and tcase from a YJ so it can be a winter beater truck. It comes with a donor XJ with a 4.0 and AW4 but I dont think Im going to go through that whole process
Don’t ruin a good MJ driving it in the snow…


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Youre from CT, you should know it doesnt matter if you drive it in the winter or not, everything rusts up here
I tend to disagree. I do frequent washing though and have 3 Jeeps that all get parked in the winter. Soon to be 4 haha. My winter beater is a fwd VW TDI lol.


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Well today was a good day! I got the rocker panels cut out and the 2x6 rectangular tubing welded in. Making the supports took a little longer than i anticipated so i only got 4 out of the 8 i want made. I think it will be strong and really stiffen up the unibody in tandem with the frame stiffeners. The front and back supports are different so its not an "one size fits all", thats what takes so long.
I was able to gain 2.5" of ground clearance over my last rock sliders and these should be indestructible!






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I guess i forgot to post doing the center section of the frame stiffeners. It took a full day but everything went pretty smoothly. I basically had to enlarge every whole for them to actually line up. Then i had to enlarge/move holes on the lift kit to get it back on.




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I tend to disagree. I do frequent washing though and have 3 Jeeps that all get parked in the winter. Soon to be 4 haha. My winter beater is a fwd VW TDI lol.


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In Arizona as long as you stay off the interstates, no one uses salt. My jeep only has a little bit of surface rust here and there. It has lived its life in New Mexico, Colorado and Arizona. I am the 3rd owner. Despite there being no rust, every single bolt is corroded and i have broken quite a few of them taking them out. Now i am to the point that most have been removed and come out easily. Eventually everything on the Jeep will be new.

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I made 2 more brackets tonight out of the 1/4" 2x6 tube. I have two more to make and then weld them on. I think 4 supports will be plenty strong.


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Since it has been raining here lately, everything was starting to rust. So i cleaned it up and threw some primer on top. I cleaned up the frame to get ready to weld the last 4 brackets on. I am excited to finish this and test it out in the rocks.
I took a few pictures of how well the tube fit in the rear and how the fender is attached in front. It got dark so i figured i better quit.


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