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The gray cylinder part of the old antenna doesn't work with the rounder base from the new style. There's also a bracket built into the old fenders that isn't there on new fenders.

I can't figure out what the old style connection plug is called.

Old style base looks like this on new fender


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Ahh ok, I see. I'm out of ideas I guess then. I haven't done the swap myself.

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Oh a different note, anyone know what a set of Icons go for now adays?



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Ahh ok, I see. I'm out of ideas I guess then. I haven't done the swap myself.

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I ended up using coax rg59 connectors for n mine, plug it all in and radio works crisp. So out of curiosity, I took the antenna off. Still works great. Then I unplugged the whole cable I was working with. Radio is still great. So don't even need the antenna lol. Going to hook it up anyways

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Tried to start it

Yesterday actually we went to go somewhere and it wouldn't crank! Stuck a monkey wrench in the solenoid terminals and it cranked. Called NAPA for a safety neutral switch and they said sure...for $300. Said no thanks and ordered from partsgeek. Might take 2 weeks but for $49.....
Now I just carry the monkey wrench to start it. I was thinking that if I short two terminals on the NSS it should start. Why not install a dash starter button like a Jaguar or Aston.
 

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I finally finished reaming the knuckle and got it all back together. I even adjusted the drag link and made my steering wheel straight. Just installed "the cure" from ruff stuff so we will see how it does. Steering felt pretty firm, but anything would after driving around with a wallowed out knuckle.


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I decided that I don't like the 97+ fenders/header on my mj. One of those things I had to try to realize. In hindsight the rounded off body lines and shape looks out of place to me.

So I ordered new parts for my original header and fender flares. Along with bumper brackets and end caps. Just need new fenders when it comes time to paint. Pretty much staying like this but with paint and fresh not bent parts


Anybody have recommendations on filling the small chips on this header panel?

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This past weekend I fixed the wiring for the front speakers and last night started doing a "big 7" cable replacement. It'll actually be a big 6 since I just bolted the mega fuse to the front of the fuse box instead of using the cheesy fuse holder they sent me. I'll finish that today and start on a 136 amp alternator swap.
 

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This past weekend I fixed the wiring for the front speakers and last night started doing a "big 7" cable replacement. It'll actually be a big 6 since I just bolted the mega fuse to the front of the fuse box instead of using the cheesy fuse holder they sent me. I'll finish that today and start on a 136 amp alternator swap.
I did the jeepcables.com 0ga wire with anl fuse. I tried to get a 130 amp alternator to fit but it would have been a lot of work and i don't have anything extra hooked up right now anyway.


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I did the jeepcables.com 0ga wire with anl fuse. I tried to get a 130 amp alternator to fit but it would have been a lot of work and i don't have anything extra hooked up right now anyway.


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i used the Ksuspension kit. It'll look even cleaner when I'm done. I'm going put in a fuse block for the headlight relays and anything else i might add. I dont like a bunch if inline fuses scattered everywhere.

You just need the grind a little off the inside if the mounts to get alternator to fit. Should be quick with an angle grinder. After I'm done with that I'm going to put in an electric fan which take a spot in the extra fuse block.

 

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Past 2 days finished the "Big 6", f*ck that engine to firewall ground nut. I'm going to shorten that stud when it comes time to take the head off. Or is that a valve cover bolt? I forget. I pulled the alternator but realized I bought the wrong upgrade alternator, I could use it but I decided to buy a new direct plug in Bosch 132A instead, that'll be here Friday. I used the one I have for fitting the mount so all I have to do is bolt it up when it gets here. I removed the water pump and broke off the top bolt because a PO or mechanic used loctite. I moved onto removing the radiator. I then started to swap a MKVIII fan motor into a stock aux fan assy. It was working great until I carelessly broke the blade hub. I'll try it some other time when I'm not pressed for time. In the meantime I bought an aftermarket at Oreilly's. I don't know if I'll have time to do anything today but I hope to have it running again this weekend.


Happy Thanksgiving.
 

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Got a lead on some 97+ manual crank and lock doors for my mj.

Had a little bit of a change on the overall vision of what I wanted to do with it. Decided I didn’t like the new fenders/header panel, so sticking with classic style. But I really like the full glass on new doors. So still going to be a hybrid but leaning more towards classic instead of late 90s look.


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Well, she sits about 4" higher now, which I think puts it about 2.5-3" above stock. All the springs were sagging and I think they might have been the original 260k mile springs. They were pretty beat up (original leafs in picture) and those front eye bolts on the leaf springs were a nightmare. I didn't want to spend a lot of money, so for about the same price as buying new stock springs/bushings/bump stops (all the bump stops were gone), I cobbled together a lift:

-Lightly used RE 3.5" springs from a dude on Facebook. I pulled a leaf out of the middle hoping to hit 2.5-3" above stock to hopefully avoid needing an SYE
-Lightly used 3" lift shocks from the same guy, I believe they're also RE
-cut and welded the rear brake line bracket to keep the brake hose slack
-New Skyjacker 2.5" lift TJ front long travel springs
-3D printed 1" spring spacer for the front (printed in ABS. I printed spacers in PLA for my last Wrangler and they held up for years before I sold it. The ABS will be even stronger and more heat resistant)
-New stock front bump stops and rear 4" bump stops
-3D printed 2" front bump stop extensions (bolted to the lower spring perch)
-all new hardware
-removed the rear sway bar while I was in there

So far everything feels great. Definitely firmer than before, but certainly not harsh and it handles corners/bumps a lot better on road. Haven't gotten it off the pavement yet so that remains to be seen.


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Well, she sits about 4" higher now, which I think puts it about 2.5-3" above stock. All the springs were sagging and I think they might have been the original 260k mile springs. They were pretty beat up (original leafs in picture) and those front eye bolts on the leaf springs were a nightmare. I didn't want to spend a lot of money, so for about the same price as buying new stock springs/bushings/bump stops (all the bump stops were gone), I cobbled together a lift:

-Lightly used RE 3.5" springs from a dude on Facebook. I pulled a leaf out of the middle hoping to hit 2.5-3" above stock to hopefully avoid needing an SYE
-Lightly used 3" lift shocks from the same guy, I believe they're also RE
-cut and welded the rear brake line bracket to keep the brake hose slack
-New Skyjacker 2.5" lift TJ front long travel springs
-3D printed 1" spring spacer for the front (printed in ABS. I printed spacers in PLA for my last Wrangler and they held up for years before I sold it. The ABS will be even stronger and more heat resistant)
-New stock front bump stops and rear 4" bump stops
-3D printed 2" front bump stop extensions (bolted to the lower spring perch)
-all new hardware
-removed the rear sway bar while I was in there

So far everything feels great. Definitely firmer than before, but certainly not harsh and it handles corners/bumps a lot better on road. Haven't gotten it off the pavement yet so that remains to be seen.


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Any pictures of the bump stops extensions you printed? I bump stops take a lot of abuse, so if I was worried about something holding up it would be them. Granted, my Jeep is pretty low on bigger tires so I dont have a ton of up travel before the bumps start hitting.



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Here's a pic I just snapped in the parking lot at work. I've used the plastic bump stop spacer pucks that some companies sell before, and those held up great. I used basically the same design and printed these 100% solid so I figure it should be comparable to those.

Also yes, the sway bar links will be replaced soon lol


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Scored on some perfect condition fender liners off of an 87 wagoneer at the junkyard yesterday. Pretty happy about that. Also picked up a renix grill since quadratec sent me the wrong one multiple times. Got some 97+ door strikers for when I get doors.

Local junkyard got rid of some XJs. Mostly ZJs and WJs lol.


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I got everything I wanted to finished over the weekend. The Bosch alternator was even bigger than the one I was going to use and had to grind off some more on the mounts and the bosses on the block and timing chain cover. I would have done things slightly differently if I had known before hand and had the time. It's working so no biggie. I didn't have the time to wire the fan switch to a key on circuit and just grounded it to the frame it's stayed on for a minute or 2 after I've shut off the engine but I don't think it'll be an issue for now. Everything is working as well as expected.
 

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Lost my turn signals, radio, heater blower control, and a few other vanity lights a few weeks ago. With a little research help from jeep forum and YouTube. I was able to diagnose the problem. My ignition switch went bad. And for those of you who will need to do this in the future, you will need the following tools. 15 mm socket to drop the steering column, a flat blade screw driver, a Phillip's screwdriver to take off lower dash panel, and gauge panels, then you will need a 8 mm box wrench and a 3/16 box wrench to take off the ignition switch from the steering column, because someone must of thought it would be cute to attach the switch with two different size nuts, and bolts.
 

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Got a nice set of 97+ factory bumpers for 50 bucks for the mj. Then I can have factory old school and factory facelift stuff


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Rolled this little gem into the garage.



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