Joined
·
2,525 Posts
The reason you use a thicker piece of flat stock is so that you can just drill and tap it. I did it specifically because I don't have a welder.bluejunior said:Can't weld a nut to it. I did it before with flat chunks of plate and just ran it up with an impact, which worked fine, but I don't have access to an impact now...
OH....well...when you put it like that. That's actually a really good idea. If i can't get 4wheelparts to replace thr JCR strip with a good one I'll do that.The reason you use a thicker piece of flat stock is so that you can just drill and tap it. I did it specifically because I don't have a welder.
Because you're limited to like 5 characters in your sig now.
Check again if you get bored, I believe the sig restrictions have been relaxed some.Very short character limit. I had to use google's URL shortener to fit my build thread into mine.
Hope you like it. My dad uses that on his one ton steering on his tj. Works wellThe "Cure" arrived. Really heavy duty material. So let's hope it works.
I'm hoping it works out. My steering wanders/feels loose.DezertTJ said:Hope you like it. My dad uses that on his one ton steering on his tj. Works well
How is rubbing at full lock? It must rub, because I am at 1.5" lift and I just barely rub the inter fender just behind the lunch seam. No amount of trimming will fix that. Only option would be a BFH. I am running 33x12.5 on 3.75 back spacing.DirtyJeepGuy said:33's no lift... And the cure from ruffstuff made the drag link roll like non existant.
Lmfao just a FYI they are not on my MJ. Just set up next to it. And they are on 33x14.00's. On 15x11's. (Beadlocks add a inch).RedJeepster1 said:How is rubbing at full lock? It must rub, because I am at 1.5" lift and I just barely rub the inter fender just behind the lunch seam. No amount of trimming will fix that. Only option would be a BFH. I am running 33x12.5 on 3.75 back spacing.
The two-tone paint scheme is growing on me...... and the short lift w/ 33s looks perfect. Pretty much what I am aiming for. :thumbsup:
Looks so cleanGet my trim a fresh paint coat. Cleans the jeep up a little bit. Also reinstalled the 2 small front trim pieces.
It's a little, round, white sensor on the side of the block near the oil filter. Handles timing of the injectors. common cause of crank/no start on XJ's.Ok I'm back again. Turned that tj around and then grabbed up a stratus that needed break lines. Flipped it and took a trip for my uncle to a place that needed some show of force. Back now and working on the XJ again. Finally made some head way today. But not much. Got it to run without a rough idle, until the rotor balled up inside the cap. Picked up a new cap and rotor. Now it won't start, the firing order is correct, but, it threw a p0340 error code. Cam shaft position sensor circuit. Any clue what the hell that actually means?
I know what it is, and where it is. Does that error code mean it's bad or needs cleaned or what.bluejunior said:It's a little, round, white sensor on the side of the block near the oil filter. Handles timing of the injectors. common cause of crank/no start on XJ's.
Oh. Sorry. It's likely bad, but before I bought a new one I'd test for continuity at the pigtail. If you have an analog voltmeter, you can unplug it, put the voltmeter across the outputs and have someone turn the key and see if the needle bounces between 0-5 volts as the engine turns over.I know what it is, and where it is. Does that error code mean it's bad or needs cleaned or what.