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What did you do to your XJ/MJ today?

4602399 Views 93880 Replies 2569 Participants Last post by  pdcomm
seriously, one of these threads needs to stay alive in the XJ/MJ section and what better time to get a real one going then now with the creation of the XJ/MJ GD. now, lets keep this going.

for me, all i did today was take pictures of my newly cut front bumper.

picture a few posts down.
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S8NNG8 said:
Did you forget you're trying to take away some of the angle on the pinion cuz too much angle IS a problem.
sure, but deathwobble is a bigger issue than Driveline vibes. and that's going to ultimately decide how far you can adjust the pinion angle
How far, if at all would you say you can safely adjust pinion angle?
The differential would have to be the only part to rotate, otherwise everything attached to the axle gets spun out of its operating alignment. Shocks, coils, track bar (which is mounted at a 90 degree angle, pinion U-joint is 0-5 degrees), steering assembly, sway bar. You may be able to force it to happen, but you won't like the issues you've caused to save a little vibe from a U-joint.
YoureverydayXJ said:
How far, if at all would you say you can safely adjust pinion angle?
that's really going to vary jeep to jeep. I see castor between 4-6* being pretty stable. but really trial and error is the best way to find out how far you can take it
S8NNG8 said:
The differential would have to be the only part to rotate, otherwise everything attached to the axle gets spun out of its operating alignment. Shocks, coils, track bar (which is mounted at a 90 degree angle, pinion U-joint is 0-5 degrees), steering assembly, sway bar. You may be able to force it to happen, but you won't like the issues you've caused to save a little vibe from a U-joint.
or, just find a HP30.

because the work involved in rotating a center section is completely not worth it
Just a friendly piece of knowledge: the track bar, well maintained and properly aligned, is the key to death wobble.
SFRautomotive said:
or, just find a HP30.

because the work involved in rotating a center section is completely not worth it
Exactly.
I got these in the mail I'll install them tonight.

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Tom95YJ said:
I got these in the mail I'll install them tonight.

Sent from iPhoneusing JeepForum
I was just looking to get 5 of those for my rack to replace my harbor freights. Are they made pretty good? Thick glass?
chriskeenan said:
You're correct the 4x4 and trans bezels both take a 194. you'll have to pull the tinting film out of the trans bezel and replace it with some white paper, multiple layers of it to tune down the brightness. The color on the 4x4 is printed on the underside of the clear plastic, you can scratch it off if you want, but be careful the marking are also printed on the same piece of plastic and the paint scratches off easily. White paper all so helps here to even out the light some.

Also I've found that keeping the dimmer switch in the lowest position helps the LEDs last longer. They wont dim like normal bulbs so there's no loss of output, but they do seem to last notably longer.

Mine are red, the phone makes them look orange.
No4x4Yet said:
Theres no film behind the gauge correct? Just order the color you want?

What film do you use?
X2 what film do I get ? I was unaware I would have to remove film,
Also, the film in my 4x4 it's all messed up, would it hurt to just peel it off?
X2 what film do I get ? I was unaware I would have to remove film,
Also, the film in my 4x4 it's all messed up, would it hurt to just peel it off?
uhhhhh...

There is no film on the gauges, they're just red LEDs. Although i guess you could use lighting gels, like out of large theater lighting and cut them to fit the existing bulbs. The LEDs are much easier though
:rtft:

The film is only on the HVAC and Trans bezels. The trans one is easily removed, the HVAC one is near impossible with out destroying the face.

the 4x4 bezel is paint on the under side of some clear plastic, it just scratches off, if you remove all of the paint it also removes all of the markings for the different lever positions. I guess you could scrape all the paint off and apply your own, instead of 4High it could say "Fun", 4Lo could be "More Fun", ect.
chriskeenan said:
uhhhhh...

:rtft:

The film is only on the HVAC and Trans bezels. The trans one is easily removed, the HVAC one is near impossible with out destroying the face.

the 4x4 bezel is paint on the under side of some clear plastic, it just scratches off, if you remove all of the paint it also removes all of the markings for the different lever positions. I guess you could scrape all the paint off and apply your own, instead of 4High it could say "Fun", 4Lo could be "More Fun", ect.
Using the SMD LEDs I did, I didn't have to do any of that. However, I like this make your own indicator idea!
ordered new exhaust manifold, front pipe, 4 hole injectors and brown dog motor mounts!
YoureverydayXJ said:
Using the SMD LEDs I did, I didn't have to do any of that. However, I like this make your own indicator idea!
I didn't think you did, Im going to order the 194s for them both in blue post.
FYI : If you want to type the Degree sign ( ° ) simply hold the Alt key and type 0176 .
Weeder1 said:
I was just looking to get 5 of those for my rack to replace my harbor freights. Are they made pretty good? Thick glass?
I will inform you when I get home from work. My buddy has them on his jk but the 4" version. There are some pics of his lit on the last page of my build thread

Sent from iPhoneusing JeepForum
pdcomm said:
FYI : If you want to type the Degree sign ( ° ) simply hold the Alt key and type 0176 .
don't have an alt key on my phone...
don't have an alt key on my phone...
Kinda makes ya wonder what else they cheaped out on ... :(
Using the SMD LEDs I did, I didn't have to do any of that. However, I like this make your own indicator idea!
If the LEDs you're using are blue you don't have to, the tint is blueish so it will pass the blue light through.
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