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What did you do to your XJ/MJ today?

4603603 Views 93883 Replies 2570 Participants Last post by  RedJeepster1
seriously, one of these threads needs to stay alive in the XJ/MJ section and what better time to get a real one going then now with the creation of the XJ/MJ GD. now, lets keep this going.

for me, all i did today was take pictures of my newly cut front bumper.

picture a few posts down.
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youre missing a few key pictures. :shhh:

ok.... don't forget to take off the washer

I can't believe we didn't get any pics of me cutting the notch in the portion that stayed on the crank and hammering it off.... but you can see the chisel used to break it.
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yeah my mom just bought me a hitch and wiring and had it installed by a shop. almost 400 buck later its lookin real nice.
I would have done it but i guess since its for my bday its ok.
wow... $400 is more than twice what my parents paid to put a hitch on their 2000... and it didn't have nutstrips either. I think including the hitch it was 150$
yeah my mom just bought me a hitch and wiring and had it installed by a shop. almost 400 buck later its lookin real nice.
I would have done it but i guess since its for my bday its ok.
for sure. we shouldve taken some. but at least we know what to do from now on. when i replace my timing chain ill give you a call so we can go through that whole process again. haha
for sure... now that I have done it I bet I can get the front clip, rad, and belt off an XJ in less than 2 hrs.
I did not need a puller to remove those, a BFH was good enough. then again I don't live in the rust belt. :rofl:
Now that looks like good old fashion fun right there! Hours and hours of fun, I am sure :laugh:
actually, it really only took about 20 minutes to cut into the balancer and come up with a chisel big enough (found one in a garage sale bought tool chest, one of those 100$ gets you the box and whatever is in it deals). now the rest of the process took 2 days to do.
So just replace the tie rod end
to replace the track bar TRE you have to replace the whole track bar. unless its an aftermarket adjustable unit.
Same thing I do every day, think about my next list of mods and how I can't afford them : rofl:

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adjusted my draglink
I should do that......... you coming to the meet and greet?
adjusted my draglink
there... I just adjusted mine.... going on 8 months with steering wheel off center... it was kind of sad to see it go back:rofl:
Got my rims and tires on her. :D

and got her loaded up on the trailer, she will be Rescue Green next time i post pics :rofl:
you ever think about doing a B pillar between the doors?
put my new brown dog motor mounts in. fun stuff
got any vibes? I have vibes at idle from mine... I need to call them and see if they have any suggestions.
I got the poly ones and they were a little viby at first but settled down after about a week. Just don't over-tighten the bolts and they should be okay.
yea.... I got the rubber ones and I still have vibes. I replaced the trans mount with an OEM replacement, and the harmonic balancer. both were shot, but neither eliminated the vibes completely.

I tightened the bolts as they suggested. locknuts tight until I could not spin an added washer by hand.
Borrowed this from one of the techs at work to get my control arm bolts off:

This thing is claims to have 725ftlbs breakaway torque and 425 bolt on
you really needed that to get them off? m I suppose you rust belt people have it worse, but I just used an 18" breaker bar.
drove it to work... drove over an embankment to avoid paying 25$ for parking. :rofl:
Then why didn't chysler make it where you only had to turn them 5 times?
because that would leave no room for error and for different width wheels

I think the more its turned the tighter it will be.
No ****, but that has nothing to do with strength.
When i said tighter i meant strength. So are you saying after turning a lug 5 times it is just as strong as 15-20 turns?
that depends entirely upon how many turns is required to fully engage the lugnut

No he isnt. He is saying that 5 turns ( assuming the threads are biteing) the nut will have enough tension presuare on it the it will hold. which is true. ( You can check how many turns get you the right tourqe useing the thread specifications)

However yes you are right... 5<20 turns.... its simple to understand, but with 20 turns you run a major risk of snapping a lug.
its all about bolt tension and thread engagement. if the lugnut is fully engaged at 5 turns and the torque spec is properly met then it is just as strong as the same result at 20 turns. what keeps the lugnut tight is stretch in the bolt, not how many times it has turned

however the downside at 5 turns is you don't have that safety net if one or more gets loose it will immediately come off the stud and then you are in for a treat..

. just ask 1990jeepxj about that:rofl:
The only reason I would go with alloys over steel is that the alloys are less ductile and will stay true, as opposed to steelies that will lose true over time.... It's not that likely but it can happen.

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MagicNelson said:
-Deleted my rear sway bar (had to cut it with an angle grinder to get it out)
-Painted my rusty, crusty brake drums black
-Sealed my Autopal's with silicone so no water can get in anymore
-Broke the head off one of the bolts holding my transfer case cross member in an attempt to install a 1" drop...time to find my easy outs... :(
I got mine at oreilly. Cheap and they work on gr8 bolts

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Well I work at a hardware store so luckily I've got plenty to choose from. And luckily the bolt that snapped was only grade 5 so I shouldn't have any problems drilling it. I still have to get those studs out too while I'm at it...wasn't expecting those when I went to do the drop. I think I'm gonna do that trick with threading 2 nuts on it or something. Looks like its 10mm?
10mm sounds right.... and yes, the trick with 2 nuts works.... make sure to soak those suckers with PB.... I broke my nutserts loose last time I did it, I just tack welded them to the unibody so they would stay in place. worked pretty well.
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