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What did you do to your XJ/MJ today?

4601630 Views 93880 Replies 2569 Participants Last post by  pdcomm
seriously, one of these threads needs to stay alive in the XJ/MJ section and what better time to get a real one going then now with the creation of the XJ/MJ GD. now, lets keep this going.

for me, all i did today was take pictures of my newly cut front bumper.

picture a few posts down.
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I'm going to give the last week because I'm stoked:
Dirtbound Mojave bumper, HP30 with lockrite installed and gas and transfer case skids stripped and painted waiting for my next free weekend (along with the SYE)
Big night for the jeep last night: I've ordered IRO frame stiffeners (center section only, fronts to come after I decide whether to go long arm or not), AJ's Rock Rails, Napier V2 fender flares and the parts I need for home brew quick disconnects.

Can't wait to finally get those and the garage parts on and be able to really play.
And the easiest way to tell would beee? Jack up the rear end and spin the tires?

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That's the cheapest/fastest way. You can get a buildsheet with your vin and googling up the right jeep webpage or you can take the doff cover off and look. If it has a sideways s shaped chunk of metal in the midst of the carrier it's limited slip. If it has plain spider gears it's open. You have to clean off the old rtv and replace the fluid for that though.

If you're changing fluids anyway that's not a bad way. And I cant suggest going with a lube locker enough instead of replacing the rtv.
I buy HF tools when it's the first, and possibly only, time I might need that particular tool. I figure that if I use it enough to break it, I'll replace it with the DeWalt.
Hell I've destroyed harbor freight stuff trying to use it just once. But they've never given me **** about returning it due to the failure at least.
Today I'm curious to see how it rides with the weight of that battery on the front suspension. I'm hoping it gets rid of the ds being more bouncy than the ps.
I still gotta get the body strap done. There is just enough play that it could hit the neck on the radiator on a pothole.
Meant to ask you, how do you like the under-windshield intake?

Ever thought about finding a little scoop for it to maybe make it breathe a little better on the highway?
I love it, its one of my favorite mods. Because of the ripple effect from the vent and the wiper, it creates a dead spot, so it can breathe quite well.
Nifty. I'll have to keep it in mind. Can't say I wouldn't like having under-hood space for a second battery and a cooler intake location would just be gravy on top.
Plus you get the added benefit that you're less likely to suck water into the motor when fording through water.
TRUE. Though it does preclude ever going to a snorkel if one is crossing water often.

I have to say that's what thing I never got about the 4.0L. Who looked at the jeep and said: "Hey this is a 4x4 people will mud and do crossings in, let's make the alternator the lowest accessory on the block. Right in the middle of the wet and the crap."
Today's pain in the *** largely maintenance work:

Removed the road-chem ruined factory undercoating from the rear wheel wells and adjacent frame rails, redid with rustoleum pro undercoating. Curious to see if it helps dampen road noise from the tires as claimed.

Also yanked out my RC shocks, managed to "press" out the old bar pins and "press" them into my new jk shocks. Oh and I repainted the JK shocks covering the rubi red with silver. I don't necessarily hate red shocks but they would not match my silver/black scheme well. doing the front wheel wells tomorrow so I'll have to give the road review on the JK shocks at 3" after I get the front wells done tomorrow. Or I might wait til later in the week to put them on. Doing the HD no-lift shackle relocation sometime this week, might be easier to just not have the rear shocks in for that. I feel like they'll be the limiting factor in droop and I plan to drop the axle as far as possible out of the way of the install.

Press is in quotes because I don't own a press or a vice, so I used a floorjack and the bottom of my trailer hitch to substitute. actually worked pretty damned well for something I invented on the spot.
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finished peeling off worn factory undercoating from the wheel wells and replacing with rustoleum pro undercoating. Put on JK rubi shocks.

Pleased to find the ride better and tire noise slightly but noticeably reduced.

Also examined the massive stack of immediately upcoming projects and whimpered a bit.
Anyone know the trackbar bracket bolt size? Pulling what's left of this ruffstuff bracket off. And installing my rustys otk trackbar & bracket. Just missing bolts.

Unibody Bracket bolt size?
I'm PRETTY sure they're m10x1.5x25mm. Like...85% sure.
At least he got there before too long. Last time I had an issue with my jeep my starter died on me entirely. In the middle of a sudden ice storm at a gas station 20 miles from home. With my wife in the car, since I had told here to carpool with the 4x4 in the bad weather rather than taking her pickup.

With all the wrecks due to the ice, it took better than 5 hours for the tow truck to get there. Work was definitely missed.
Those seem awfully small for the trackbar bracket.
SOrry. You're right. the frame sides are m12x1.75
I opened the hatch up today on mine and it didn't stay up. One of my liftgate struts had leaked all of its stuff out and was no longer holding up the hatch. Is that a common thing? They were new as of last Christmas. I replaced it with one of my old ones and its fine.
Sounds like a bum unit. Or a cheap one.
That's what I figured.

Also considering starting a build thread
Earlier is better. If only as a personal log of your work
I got a helping hand tonight.
Always good to start em young
What's the advantage other then making room in your engine compartment? Or is that the advantage?
In theory relocating the intake gets cooler air into the engine, which helps with compression. A true induction system will also direct more air into the intake at speed, which helps efficiency on the highway.

But honestly I think it's more important to an XJ that you get a good spot for a second battery or maybe a small electric compressor to work lockers or air up tires and you get the intake up higher. not snorkle high, but higher.
It seems as if you could flip the center piece and have the hitch sit ontop instead of of the bottem.
That would make it more of a skid and less of a hang-up
I think I came to the conclusion I'm going to use 3" exhaust pipe. And create a cowl air intake that way.
That's huge for an XJ. Over 2.25 tends to hurt low-end torque. Even strokers tend to stop at 2.5.

Care to share your reasoning/expected results?
For a cowl air intake...? Not a exhaust.
Sorry. Misread and jumped to a bad conclusion. I probably shouldn't split attention between the forum and work.
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