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Hit the army surplus store and picked up several items for the emergency pack. Found a military style 4000 lb. comalong with 100 foot of stainless cable to fill in until I get my winch and bumper installed. Several other items and a nice plastic tote box for everything. I also got the Spartan lunch box locker installed in the rear dif.
 

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Sounds like a separated tire. Look on both of your rear tires for a spot that has less tread or a spot that is higher. Air is leaking between the plies in the tire causing it to grow. Belts do not really break in a tire but air can infiltrate between the plies.
 

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I finally decided to upgrade the front bumper and add rock sliders. Decided to go with JCR for both. The JCR bumper was a bit more than SMittybuilt and others but I like the Made in America part. Fishbone was the cheapest bumper but I had never heard of them. The JCR rock rails actually were a one of the lowest price and seemed to be the strongest. I also ordered a Warn 8000 lb. winch with steel cable. Old school a bit I am used to the steel cable.
 

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I also had some light rust on the hood and after applying rust reverse and sanding bad area smooth I applied a hood decal for $80. I also priced doing a wrap on the roof and was quoted $1800, ouch.
 

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I picked up a Kargo Masters Safari Rack size 40" X 50" for $170 and $30 for the mounts. I think they are discontinued now but if you look around a few places still have them. I was kind of surprised at how heavy it is. It went together real easy. I picked up some black E 6000 industrial glue/sealer at Home Depot because I read the glue they send is a little old. Turns out they send E 6000 clear when they send the rack out. I lucked out and the black actually works out much better anyway. I do not have it mounted on top yet as I am waiting to get the XJ back from putting lift on. They make one larger that is 52" X 60" and it is on sale for $329. Much cheaper than anything else I found.
 

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I mounted my Kargo Master roof rack today. I had to modify the mounting brackets a little but it worked out nice and kept it as low as possible. I did a 3.5 inch RE lift last week and ended up closer to 5 inches overall. After the lift I needed to install one upper adjustable ball joint on the right side to get the alignment in spec. I also went with a adjustable track bar. I put the JCR side rails and front winch bumper on. Waiting for the SYE kit to come in for a project later this week.
 

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I have put a couple of ATK rebuilt engines in my DOdge Dakotas over the last few years. I have been very happy with them and no issues. They come with a 3 year warranty. They have several options for the 4.0 engine.
 

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I took a 3/8 coupler nut and put it on the end of some all thread then put the nut in a vise and bent the all thread to make a longer J bolt for my 31 inch spare tire. I was able to use the wing nut etc. and get the 31 inch spare in without having to modify the seat or back hatch.
 

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I almost finished my rear hitch gas can/ spare tire carrier. I just have to add the end of axle to bolt the spare tire to. It is rated at 500 lbs. I can fold it back to a 45 degree angle so I can open the rear hatch and access the interior. 2- 3 gallon rotopax now with the ability to add 2 more 2 gallon rotopax. $110 invested not including the rotopax and roto mounts.
 

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The license plate will be the easy part. I can run a light off the trailer hitch wires but probably will just mount the plate on the plate at this time since my spare fits in the back.
 

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MY RE quick disconnect sway bar kit came in. I had everything unhooked and then discovered that they sent me a kit for TJ. I was able to get this kit to work after I went to the hardware store and bought some 1/2 ID to 3/4 ID bushings. Eventually I will replace the top bracket with the correct one but this will work for now.
 

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The RE sway bar connects do have some swivel within the socket area, much more than the fixed length arms that came in the RE lift kit.The inside diameter of the new ones required a 3/4 inch mount vs. the 1/2 of the stock versions. I can see now from your picture that it would be easy to extend the lower pin to give the bars a more vertical alignment. The lower pins were fun to drill out even with cobalt bits. If I do experience the sway bars binding I will extend out the lower pin like suggested. I think it is designed the way it is so that you can disconnect the lower part of the sway bar and have room to slide it off the pin since the top attachment does not easily disconnect.
While working on this sway bar I wondered why no company makes a system that lets you have a break in the middle of the upper sway bar that could be connected or disconnected with a simple cog mechanism. Unhooked the sway bar would allow each side to articulate but when hooked would be like a stock sway bar.
 

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I did some research over the weekend and saw that the sway bar disconnects on the power wagon and rubicons are on the bar itself and not the links. I did not find a company that makes a manual version but I am sure someone must make it. It sure would be a simpler solution than having to tie up the links and the bar. I simple manual lovejoy coupler would work I think on the middle of the sway bar itself.
 
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