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What did you do to your WJ today?

5175392 Views 52304 Replies 2923 Participants Last post by  Ravenbar
Tell us what you did!

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I washed mine and Im still waiting for my lift to show up!

I put my new WHEELS and tires on with the jack :)

And replaced driver side axle shaft and changed all diff fluids.
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Today I'm still working on my "Wings" for the homemade recessed winch bumper. Rather than polygonal flat shapes, I'm making high clearance wings that flow with the contour of the headlight and grill curves. Not done yet, but these top plates (3/16") are my start..
Wheel Tire Land vehicle Vehicle Car

Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Motor vehicle

Watch Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Fender

Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Motor vehicle

Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Composite material Metal

Road surface Wood Floor Flooring Gas
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Today I'm still working on my "Wings" for the homemade recessed winch bumper. Rather than polygonal flat shapes, I'm making high clearance wings that flow with the contour of the headlight and grill curves. Not done yet, but these top plates (3/16") are my start.. View attachment 4180213
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That's going to look awesome! Excited to see how it turns out 👍
10
finished installing the house battery and a basic overlanding platform that will hold the 12v fridge has room for a 6 foot folding camping table under the deck and will hold cargo boxes. goal was to make it easy to remove, but also very stable

base of the unit is a 2x2x.25 wall aluminum c channel, this was sitting around the shop left over from a pontoon boat I repowered a few years ago, these are what they build the deck of a pontoon boat with, extremely strong
Automotive tire Bumper Wood Automotive exterior Gas


I attached the cross bar to the front tie downs in the cargo area using 500lb stainless eye bolts, I used heavy heat shrink to pad them against the tie downs
Water Grey Circle Auto part Metal


thiis is the backbone of the platform, if I remove the two stainless nuts the platform will lift out (I am still engineering a tie down for the rear most tie downs, but after the final install I am not sure they will be necessary, the system is extremely strong once installed)

Bumper Rectangle Wood Gas Automotive exterior


basic frame
Rectangle Wood Floor Automotive exterior Composite material


3/4 inch deck, there are two pieces, the forward piece is just about 4 inches wide, but allow the two legs and the cross piece to be bolted together accros the top to keep things square and then allows the deck to be hinged
Wood Rectangle Couch Gas Automotive exterior


the bolts in the deck are pins that insert into the frame to keep it square
Table Wood Hardwood Wood stain Plank


sealed carpeted and installed, the deck fits with the seats up or down
Automotive tire Black Wood Bumper Vehicle


the spare tire well underneath is holding a 100 ah, agm, house battery, amperage sensitive automatic charge controller, 750 watt AC convertor, The battery will power the 12volt fridge/cooler, gives me charging station for mobile devices, has a cigarette lighter adapter that is run through the liftgate and gives me power to the roof top tent for lights, 12 volt blanket, nighttime charging etc. the deck lifts up and out of the way enough so this area can be serviced even if the deck is installed. I am considering installing the vaiair compressor in here also, but it will need ventilation or I will have to pull the table when I air up, this will allow me to prop the factory tire cover up for the ventilation. The Vaiari tends to get a little warm.
Automotive tire Automotive design Gas Motor vehicle Automotive exterior


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Steering part Automotive design Hood


this simple panel hold two lighter sockets (one for the fridge and one for the power to the roof tent) and the usb charging setup, it has a voltage monitoring system so I don't have to lift the deck to see how much power the house battery has, there is also a push button that triggers the 750 watt convertor to come on (again so I don't have to lift the deck to activate it), the pig tail leads up to the roof tent,

Lcd projector Grey Automotive lighting Camera lens Audio equipment


I still have tie downs for the fridge etc. to be installed
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Got absolutely nothing done nor did I even move it this weekend. I did not want this melting mess in the shop, and didn't want to drive it on the salty roads. I do regret not at least brushing it off though - chipping away at the 2 day old snowfall was less than pleasant before morning coffee this am. It looks soft and fluffy, but it was more like chiseling through an iceberg.

Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Plant
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Here is one for the mechanics here. Hit hole, after that had a grinding when turning left. I thought that may have done it however I remembered just before that I hit the gas hard in reverse causing the rear wheel to spin and when the front drive train kicked in there was a pretty good clunk though it was no different than when it grabs in the snow. Jacked it up, ball joints were separated. Those were replaced and while putting it back together the wheel bearing felt janky, put it together anyway. Of course the grinding is still there on left turn. Put a new wheel bearing in. Still grinding only on left turn input, even slight input like a lane correction. Not happy driving home I hit the gas, the grinding gets much louder even going straight while under throttle load. Started experimenting with throttle input, gearing and other variables. Made the discovery that the grinding is RPM dependent, NOT wheel speed dependent, again only while applying left turn input to the wheel. Does not do it while not rolling or at very slow speeds (under 5 mph). Only seems to be while rolling forward though trying to test it going backwards could be difficult. So brains out there, let's hear the prognosis. Recap, grinds only on left turn input and under heavy throttle going straight AND is engine RPM dependent, not wheel speed. New ball joints and wheel bearing, nothing loose and zero evidence of scraping or any witness marks correlating to the noise I hear. Definitely rpm based however, and does not make any unusual noises when not rolling, revving the engine sounds completely normal, does not make the sound while right turn input is applied. Sound certainly sounds like it is coming from the right front wheel. I was sure it was the front end, the noise is almost identical to a failing wheel bearing where I can make the sound come and go by slight input to the wheel, but putting it in neutral while turning left revving the engine has the grinding increasing with engine speed, again nothing under hood seems out of place but whatever force is input during left turn is causing a movement of something into something else.
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And I found the problem, does this look right?
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Bumper Rim
Automotive tire Tire Wood Road surface Water
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Here is one for the mechanics here. Hit hole, after that had a grinding when turning left. I thought that may have done it however I remembered just before that I hit the gas hard in reverse causing the rear wheel to spin and when the front drive train kicked in there was a pretty good clunk though it was no different than when it grabs in the snow. Jacked it up, ball joints were separated. Those were replaced and while putting it back together the wheel bearing felt janky, put it together anyway. Of course the grinding is still there on left turn. Put a new wheel bearing in. Still grinding only on left turn input, even slight input like a lane correction. Not happy driving home I hit the gas, the grinding gets much louder even going straight while under throttle load. Started experimenting with throttle input, gearing and other variables. Made the discovery that the grinding is RPM dependent, NOT wheel speed dependent, again only while applying left turn input to the wheel. Does not do it while not rolling or at very slow speeds (under 5 mph). Only seems to be while rolling forward though trying to test it going backwards could be difficult. So brains out there, let's hear the prognosis. Recap, grinds only on left turn input and under heavy throttle going straight AND is engine RPM dependent, not wheel speed. New ball joints and wheel bearing, nothing loose and zero evidence of scraping or any witness marks correlating to the noise I hear. Definitely rpm based however, and does not make any unusual noises when not rolling, revving the engine sounds completely normal, does not make the sound while right turn input is applied. Sound certainly sounds like it is coming from the right front wheel. I was sure it was the front end, the noise is almost identical to a failing wheel bearing where I can make the sound come and go by slight input to the wheel, but putting it in neutral while turning left revving the engine has the grinding increasing with engine speed, again nothing under hood seems out of place but whatever force is input during left turn is causing a movement of something into something else.
Any chance it could be your power steering system?
That would be "RPM dependent"
But I would think it would do it in both directions?? Unless left and right input causes different pressure signatures? and the system doesn't like the left turn pressure??
I looked, stumped. Then I crawled under, the trans mount is completely displaced from the casting allowing the entire drivetrain to shift to the right about an inch, see above pics. The shift has allowed the actual casting to contact the crossmember and the exhaust hanger off the trans to contact the tunnel. I pried the trans over to where it belongs, a small drive around the neighborhood confirms the noise is gone. I do have a new set of mounts, engine and trans, they are going in with the new transfer case, adapter and drive shafts. At least I do have new bearings and ball joints now...
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I looked, stumped. Then I crawled under, the trans mount is completely displaced from the casting allowing the entire drivetrain to shift to the right about an inch, see above pics. The shift has allowed the actual casting to contact the crossmember and the exhaust hanger off the trans to contact the tunnel. I pried the trans over to where it belongs, a small drive around the neighborhood confirms the noise is gone. I do have a new set of mounts, engine and trans, they are going in with the new transfer case, adapter and drive shafts. At least I do have new bearings and ball joints now...
Seems to be a trend?
I've been having a knocking sound while turning left also. (This was the big push to replace my T-Case) I was thinking it was my viscus coupler going bad??
I guess I need to check my Engine and Trans mounts?😁
Yep, give them a check. Mine seems to have let loose when I stomped it in reverse on cement, I can grab the tail housing and move it around almost an inch. I am actually relieved, I was hoping it was not something in the front axle.
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Think it was bad...
Sleeve Automotive tire Machine Wood Engineering
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just a little little little... 😂
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Nothing a little "Duct Tape" couldn't fix! LOL!
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Nothing a little "Duct Tape" couldn't fix! LOL!
I drove a '78 Plymouth Volaré slant-6 wagon almost an entire year with both motor mounts wrapped and twisted together with coat hangers lol. I also NEVER checked any fluids on that beast EVER, as the whole car only cost me a set of spark plugs and a can of starting fluid. Junked it when the rear end exited the chat doing an oil assisted one-wheel peel. No surprise that the rear end pieces were all bone dry - It probably had no fluid in it when I bought it lol.

When I think of my reckless youth I both cringe and miss it terribly....
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Ahh, the ol leaning tower of power. I had a Monza back in the day with a 327 jammed in it, it's trans mount was held together with large hose clamps wrapped around it and the drivers side of the engine was held down with a chain..
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Started the transfer case replacement, of course we are having near record heat here. It's all good though, at this time last year I was shoveling snow and today it is supposed to hit 86. Just ordered the rear driveshaft from Tom Woods to match the front one and of course to bolt to the Woods SYE installed in the 242 that is going in. On a side note I have a double cardan stock driveshaft up for grabs, I thought the splines were the cause of my vibration however now that it is out they are pretty tight, finding the trans mount completely destroyed explains the vibes. I can ship it in the box the Woods shaft came in, pay for the ride and it's yours.
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Making progress! The old t/case is out along with the trashed adapter. The beancounters strike in the strangest places, check what they use instead of a bearing in the adapter. I laughed but then realized the plastic "bearing" did last over 175,000 with no issues.. Can also see where the mount surface on the old adapter is broken away.
Asphalt Road surface Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tints and shades
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Rim Automotive exterior
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Making progress!
Nice trans jack!
Thanks! It's actually a motorcycle jack, which I never use for lifting motorcycles but has helped stick 3 transmissions and now a transfer case. The best part it was free!
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Thanks! It's actually a motorcycle jack
Interesting - I like it. All the wonky arms and chains on my trans jack that are supposed to keep me and my trans safe seem to do nothing more then get in my way.....
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