[Mattimus_LV]

Did the oil & filter change to prep for my holiday roadtrip tomorrow.

Replaced the oil drain plug with a Femco drain plug. Should make for easier & cleaner oil changes since I'm doing them monthly.

https://www.amazon.com/Femco-Compact-drain-7910155-M14x1-5-SB-T12/dp/B01N30AXCC

Also got the Diode Dynamics SSC2 & SSC3 light pods all mounted & wired in. In hindsight, should've gotten the SSC2 in flood pattern since they're aimed off to the sides as ditch lights.

2 inch LED Pod Lights - SSC2 LED Pods

SSC2 C2 LED Pods

www.diodedynamics.com

Stage Series 3" SAE/DOT Yellow Pro LED Pod (pair)

<div class="ddescr dcol1"> <div class="block1"> <h3>Features</h3> <ul> <li><span style="font-weight: 400;">Modern TIR optics provide highest intensity on the market</span></li> <li><span style="font-weight: 400;">Backlight accent feature, in a brilliant amber color</span></li> <li><span...

www.diodedynamics.com

Mounted them up using cowl brackets from DB Metalworx and bracket extensions from Rago Fabrication.

WJ - 1999-04 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ - COWL LIGHT BRACKETS | DB Metalworx - 66-76 Bronco & Jeep XJ, ZJ, YJ, TJ, WJ Upgrades

1999-04 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ - COWL LIGHT BRACKETSWJ Fender Light Brackets. Includes stainless button head Allen bolts and nutserts with an installation tool

dbmetalworx.com

Ditch Light Bracket Extensions - Pair | Rago Fabrication

Ditch Bracket extensions allow you to mount two lights instead of one. Easily attaches onto existing ditch brackets. Gives you extra lighting on your adventures.

www.ragofabrication.com

Switches were from a place down in FL called CH4x4. Went with Toyota style dual pushbutton switches, since it gives me the ability to separately control two lights where one switch would normally go. Added bonus is they do custom etched switch faces.

CH4X4 Custom Laser-Etched Dual Push Switches for Toyota

CH4X4 Custom Laser-Etched Dual Push Switches for Toyota are a single throw ON - OFF switch designed to operate your 12 volt accessories or devices.

www.ch4x4.com

 

[jw11432]

A few months ago, I flushed my brakes so all the fluid has been nice and clean. This past weekend, I swapped out the rotors (slotted and drilled) and pads as well as replaced my brake booster (it was the original). Boy oh boy does that thing stop good now!

Also swapped out all interior lights for LED and that too made a massive difference. I can actually see what's inside at night! These are the LED's I got (as a kit) if anyone is interested, they are nice. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08VS25SBQ
Only thing that's a little "funny" with them is the little coiled spring on the ends that are meant to serve as the "space filler" for fitting into the slots in the jeep are not permanently attached to the silicon boards. They make electrical contact with the metal trace on the board, so you may need to take some pliers and squeeze the prongs a bit to get tighter over the coiled part. But otherwise, they look fantastic and even are dimmable, so they fade out as jeep intended them to.

 

[carlsondrew3]

Just installed a Midland MicroMobile GMRS with the Ghost Antenna and wired it up to my switch pod. Placed the unit on the right side of the center console using my IRO Molle panel - the small size of the unit makes it a very sleek install that isn’t an eye sore in the cabin. Very happy to finally have some trail comms. As well, hoping to order a new driver seat cover here in a couple days to fix up the tear I have on it.

 

[jw11432]

Finally got around to replacing the Valucraft junk battery I threw into it when I drove it home from the auction place, so now I've got a Duralast Gold. Was going to get the Red, but I figured for another year of warranty and extra CCA's (850 vs red's 750, I believe it was), what's an extra 20 bucks? Also replaced my starter, as upon replacing the battery (my presumed culprit for weak starter performance) it was revealed the same start symptom of just general sluggishness. I ordered and installed a reman Bosch and hot damn does that make a difference. I'm reaching the point where I'm running out of things to replace 😆

 

[WJ60]

I'm reaching the point where I'm running out of things to replace 😆

Just let me know when you want to come by. I have a storage room full of parts that have to be installed on mine.....

 

[mak_v8]

Finally got around to replacing the Valucraft junk battery I threw into it when I drove it home from the auction place, so now I've got a Duralast Gold. Was going to get the Red, but I figured for another year of warranty and extra CCA's (850 vs red's 750, I believe it was), what's an extra 20 bucks? Also replaced my starter, as upon replacing the battery (my presumed culprit for weak starter performance) it was revealed the same start symptom of just general sluggishness. I ordered and installed a reman Bosch and hot damn does that make a difference. I'm reaching the point where I'm running out of things to replace 😆

@jw11432
Was the old starter the original one?
If yes, are brand and model recognizable from label or stamps on it?
Thanks!

 

[Merle O'Broham]

Bought one! 99 GC Limited w 48k miles, garage find being stored for several years. Washed it, aired the tires, full synth oil, filters, new battery, wipers. Got it for a song, Akebonos arrive next week, needs front shocks and tires, all hood struts.


.

 

[GmanWJ]

Was the old starter the original one?
If yes, are brand and model recognizable from label or stamps on it?
Thanks!

OEM starter was Mitsubishi. If you can find a supplier be sure to let me know. I put in a Bosch reman with 50% success rate ... First was garbage but second is strong.

 

[mak_v8]

@GmanWJ
thanks Gman, I had a suspicious it was Mitsubishi; now I need the code of it, in order to find spare parts and fix mine.
Here in Italy/Europe I find only new starter from hundreds brands (and orobably they buy it from the same dar east supplier ... 😂😂)...

 

[WJ60]

Starter numbers:
CHRYSLER: 56041207 56041207AB
MITSUBISHI: M1T84981ZC M001T84981ZC M001T84981
MITSUBISHI SALES: M1T84981
Denso is also a company Mopar uses. Their part # is 2804155.

 

[jw11432]

@jw11432
Was the old starter the original one?
If yes, are brand and model recognizable from label or stamps on it?
Thanks!

Mine was the original, based on the sticker that had the Chrysler pentastar on it.

 

[MN Ben]

Swapped out an open diff axle for a limited slip Select Trac axle.

 

[MN Ben]

I needed to tighten the large jam nut on the adjustable control arm but I needed to get a little more oomph out of my 15" Cresent wrench. So......

I found an old busted 1/2" drive extension

and cut the end off (an old socket would work also).

I then put the square piece I cut off in the end of the Cresent wrench....

...and then welded it in place....

I am now able to put my 20" 1/2" breaker bar in the end of the modified Cresent wrench and apply enough oomph to tighten the large jam nut.

 

[703JRB]

Is there any decent way to tell what condition the pinion bearing is in from an off the shelf pre-owned axle?

 

[HarryH3]

Is there any decent way to tell what condition the pinion bearing is in from an off the shelf pre-owned axle?

Grab the pinion yoke and try to move it side to side. There should be ZERO movement due to the bearing preload provided by the crush sleeve.

 

[Mr. Bitey]

I found an old busted 1/2" drive extension

That is some fine 'neck engineering right there. Making do with what you have - I dig it! Hard to believe I have made as far as I have, with all the cars I have withOUT a welder. That fat bastard in the red suit failed once again to bring me one. Maybe if I stop calling him names on the inter-webs he'll cough one up next year.....

 

[carlsondrew3]

Scored a grill from a black 03 limited today to place on my 04 to replace the aftermarket one I got years back. Always enjoyed the look of these, and thought it was the best one they made especially with the chrome trim inserts. Took a little bit of trimming but fit perfectly afterwards.

 

[WJ60]

Went out to start the WJ up to play in the 8" of snow we got and it won't start. I figured the battery (8 months old) was dead because of recent temps below 15*, and lack of driving it. Pulled the battery and warmed it up over the next day. Put it on the charger and pushed the reconditioning button. Let it run for a day, pushed the charge button, and it immediately kicked back into reconditioning mode. Tried it a few more times after letting it run in reconditioning, but it just wouldn't stay in charging mode. Voltage was at 9 volts. Took it back to Wally World and they said they'd have to put it on their charger to verify it was bad. Bought some stuff in the tool dept, and the automotive dept, then checked back in. They said it was definately bad and gave me a new one. Can't beat that.

 

[mak_v8]

@WJ60 , it often happens....; the important is that they admitted the defect and changed it

 

[cDee63]

I survived the Crud going around. While sick I had to change d/s u joints, had a chirp that turned out to be coming from the front. Taking the frt d/s off I discovered IT is the source of most of my vibrations and noise, especially on decell. The yoke on the t/case has some play, the source of my decell vibes and noise I am sure. Rebuilding the 242 right now, finally managed to get the stripped drain plug out. Drilled it out not having an EZ out big enough so I ran a large tap into it from the back side, put some PB on it and applied the heat. Popped out pretty easy.