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What did you do to your WJ today?

5176786 Views 52305 Replies 2923 Participants Last post by  toku58, 
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Tell us what you did!

Show pics!

I washed mine and Im still waiting for my lift to show up!

I put my new WHEELS and tires on with the jack :)

And replaced driver side axle shaft and changed all diff fluids.
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It seems like the perches are bound to be toast on every WJ, regardless of how clean the rest of it is. I'm considering ordering a perch kit before I even pull it apart to save time.
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GriffLvr said:
Finished the 2nd coat of paint on my rebuilt front spring perches. Tomorrow I will continue to install the 3" IRO lift. All work ground to a halt when I got the lower spring isolators off the front lowers and discovered the perches where swiss cheese.
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If you haven't already got the spring back on, would you mind taking a couple measurements of the replacement buckets?
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Which receiver is that? How much does it protrude with the cover back on?
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You could do what I did with my car, and hoard lights from the junkyard. Just in case.
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They obviously live on the equator, duh.
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wranglertec said:
According to the online calculators there is only supposed one a 1/2 height difference and 10mm width difference. Nope I had them side by side off the vehicle. It was 3/4 inch height difference and at least 1/2 or more width. The JK rims fill out the wells better.
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Probably the effect of different tire brands/models/wear level/etc. If they were the same model then the difference should be the same as a calculator would spit out unless they have terrible quality control when making tires.
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Golden-Arm said:
you never forget your first! >:)
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You can say that again! I thought people were being overdramatic about it when I read about it. Bringing my 92 YJ home down the nearly deserted highway I got it while passing someone (luckily with a proper passing lane and not just crossing to the other side). It shook so bad everything was just a blur so I was half guessing where to steer lol.
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Golden-Arm said:
i'm all for cleaner air, but i'm not sure how the air gets cleaner, when you have to burn more gas to get the same results?
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Not all combustion is equal. How things burn has an effect on the output products, which matters more than just the amount of fuel going in.
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3
The weather was finally getting mild enough to park the wifemobile outside and bring the WJ inside to start tearing into it. I went straight for the front coil buckets, since replacing those would be the most tedious part of my plans (I don't get much time to work on it and it's difficult for me to use power tools very often).

They aren't perfect, but they're in far better shape than I was expecting, so luckily I won't have to replace them.


I also wrestled the bar pins out of the JK Rubicon shocks I'll be using. My vice was a bit too small to make it really easy, but it got the job done. You can see one of the WJ rear swaybar brackets I picked up to use as BPE's as well.
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More slow progress today, I scraped some of the crust off the coil buckets and blasted them with rubberized undercoating, loosened up most of the front control arm bolts to reset the bushings, and removed the front bumper and headlights to get at the fan relay. Oh and I swapped in new hood struts so I can ditch the hockey stick without getting hit in the head.


Does anyone know what size the nut is for the rear bolt of the front upper control arms? 14mm doesn't go on and 15mm slips off.
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Knocked out a few more things today, I replaced the fan relay and relocated it, found out the brackets for the tow hooks I bought are bent, bolted on the swaybar bracket BPEs, ground down the JK front shock tubes to fit in the BPEs, and got the front springs back in with the spacers.



I should probably make a build thread but realistically there's not going to be much to this "build"
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GmanWJ said:
Original size is 15mm nut with T50 head. Somebody may have replaced it. Try a 9/16".
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9/16" didn't fit either. I'm not sure where the guy on the assembly line found these nuts but I really wish they would've picked up the correct ones. I'm just going to leave them for now and hope the bushings don't complain too much.
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Yeah sorry I meant the nut for the body end of the arm. That would explain why I couldn't get a socket to fit properly, though all the other nuts with tabs I've worked with are still a standard size nut so it's weird.


The axle end was a 15mm nut on a T45 bolt. There was also a winged tab on the nut for the body end of the passenger LCA (but with nothing for it to catch on) but not on the matching nut for the drivers side. I *think* everything is original and never touched just from the looks of it, and all the fasteners feel like they were torqued correctly and not just ugga dugga'd in a shop. The whole thing is disturbingly clean for the year and mileage though, like it sat inside running on a treadmill for most of its life or something, so maybe some parts were replaced with who knows what are some point.
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I know they're supposed to have helped at the assembly line, but the other times I've encountered them there's some part of the body that the tab snags on. These just have the triangular bit sticking out with nothing to grab on so they just seem like a complicated way to end up bleeding out in your garage.
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I got tge replacement drivers door pigtail wired in, hopefully the speaker sounds better and the window will work properly now.
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I just grabbed the cheapest one I could find on eBay, which was this one: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Door-Body-H...For-Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-Wrangler/333737566590

It's not bad, but there's two problems with it. The butt connectors it comes with are too big (I'm also not sure why there's two slightly different styles), and all the wires are the same size. They're bigger than most of the wires, which is fine, but smaller than the two big wires on the WJ. I popped the plug apart and depinned the extra wires, and reorganized them so the colours are at least close to the original to make troubleshooting in the future easier. I also pried apart two pins and crimped the correct size wire back in for the larger ones.

All in all it's a decent kit and it'd probably work fine as is, I just wanted it to be a little nicer.
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Doodlestang said:
I need to do this to my 04 overland, just haven't tore into it yet. This repair harness you bought does it plug in on the inside of the kick panel or does it plug in inside of door?
Thanks Keith
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It's in the boot that goes between the body and the door, right at the door end (it actually clips into the boot). As far as I could see there wasn't a plug in the kick panel.
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Today I wired in the rear outlet, I was missing the factory harness behind the trim panel so I just ran a new wire back to the fuse box. Weirdly all the fuses were in, and the pins too, even for features I don't have (like the outlet, front fog lights, rear fog light, sunroof, etc). I'm assuming there's a plug somewhere that the sub harness for the rear outlet plugs into, and I could've just tapped into that, but I haven't the foggiest idea where it might be. I also wired in a dashcam, dead simple on these older vehicles with no A pillar airbags.


The only downer was the big puddle of fluid from the tcase that greeted me when I walked out to do all this. I cleaned it up and it looks to be the front output seal, which I neglected to replace when I changed the yoke because it wasn't leaking. Sigh.


A new seal is inbound from RockAuto along with a drivers window regulator. It only moves in short jumps which is really annoying, and I'm guessing it's only a matter of time til it stops working entirely (with my luck in the down position).
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I pulled the old window regulator and motor out, popped the new one in, and it does the same thing. It did auto-down once, but every other time it just goes up and down in sections and I have to let off the button and hit it again to get the window moving again. It's very annoying, and I'm not sure what else could be the cause.
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As far as I know the switch is original. I'll try calibrating it and if that doesn't work I'll look up the schematic and try jumping it to see what happens.

UKXJ said:
I understand your frustration but, hey, at the end of the day you just have to keep your finger on the button - just like we used to in the early days of leccie windows - no big deal.
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The annoying part is that it stops even with my finger on the button. I'm used to holding the button from most of my other vehicles, even my old XJ that I only managed to get to auto-down once in the dozen or so years that my family owned it.

edit: no luck calibrating it :(
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