If I was going to drill body again, he could make a top like that. I just wanted something for shade and occasional rain (I’m just attaching this to roll cage so there is a gap between it and windshield frame.
If I was going to drill body again, he could make a top like that. I just wanted something for shade and occasional rain (I’m just attaching this to roll cage so there is a gap between it and windshield frame.
Not really today, but in the past month or so, I’ve gotten her cleaned up, shined up, greased up and gassed up.
Did manage to hook up to my old bass boat to move it out of the garage for selling, which in turn caused the rear bumper mounting bolts to nearly pull through and rip the frame. Removed the bumper after several hours, several cans of Kroil, some cussing, and help from my 4 year old mechanic helper, me and a rather heavy ball peen hammer were able to coerce the frame metal back to 90° and “fabricated” some thicker steel backing to spread the weight of anything else in the future.
Unfortunately the rock size hole and mutilated cooling fins from being lazy and not removing the fan before install hampers my drive times/distance.
Have parts willing to order and get delivered for some show and tell at some local car shows we keep getting invited to.
Also been thinking about removing the massive 8274 Warn winch from the front bumper and either rebuilding it, or placing it into the corner of the garage to trip over and move every time I pull the lawnmower out. Been thinking about replacing it with a lower profile winch.
After driving around the Baton Rouge area, I’ve been getting stopped by several people on the street to make offers, and trade for other vehicles. One of which is actually a dream car of mine (71 Chevelle with a 396), plus some cash. But my wife will kill me, so she’d be included in the trade lol.
Adjusted drivers door . It shuts good Except for the aftermarket door weather stripping. 1 click then a good push to the 2nd click.
I won’t be going back to a soft top in the near future . I have a.c. And don’t want slash a soft window on a trail. I have steel doors and hardtop
Added a fuse to the power sense line on my Sniper BBD EFI since I was no longer using the fuse in the fuse box but going through a relay connected directly to the battery..
I was able to adjusted my IAC down to to 3.
I need to check out the problem with my main harness next.
The voltage on the main harness drops to below 10 volts when the heater fan is on although the battery voltage is still at 14.3 volts.
I hope it's just the accessory circuit that's bad. I'll check for a voltage drop from the main feed to ignition switch to the terminal feeding the accessory power and the power feeding the ignition circuit.
Fuel gauge started reading bad again - sigh. After I replace it before with the YJ sending unit, figured I'd be good but that cheap Chinese junk wins again.
Since I used a piece of the hole I cut out to fill the old sender unit hole, I just hole sawed an opening in that plug and mounted the new vertical sender to it, then plastic welded the thing into the old sender hole. I have the Speedhut Jeep like gauges and it has a setting for the 240-33 ohm senders, so no calibrations or tweaking needed.
Hopefully this is the last time I have to fiddle with this, well until the fule pump dies and has to be replaced.
You should look into these. Turns a couple hour job into about 20 minutes.
This is the GenRight Off Road rear floor access plate/mount for the Jeep Wrangler TJ, Jeep YJ or Jeep CJ-7 (all models 1976 to 2006).
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Added a fuse to the power sense line on my Sniper BBD EFI since I was no longer using the fuse in the fuse box but going through a relay connected directly to the battery..
I was able to adjusted my IAC down to to 3.
I need to check out the problem with my main harness next.
The voltage on the main harness drops to below 10 volts when the heater fan is on although the battery voltage is still at 14.3 volts.
I hope it's just the accessory circuit that's bad. I'll check for a voltage drop from the main feed to ignition switch to the terminal feeding the accessory power and the power feeding the ignition circuit.
why a fuse instead of a circuit breaker? i've been putting circuit breakers in my jeeps for years, because of the electrical problems they seem to have.
Since I'm stuck at home with my first go around with covid, I figured it would be a good time for a few project. New radiator with electric fans went in, which led to putting in bus bars for the battery connections, which led to stripping the loom off the main harness and getting that cleaned up, and finally relocating the idler pulley for the serp belt to give me clearance for the new fan temp switch. Got it mostly ready to fire and leak check, only to realize I left the key on overnight and the battery is now dead. Hooked up the jump box and it's needs a charge as well. There's always tomorrow.
Since I'm stuck at home with my first go around with covid, I figured it would be a good time for a few project. New radiator with electric fans went in, which led to putting in bus bars for the battery connections, which led to stripping the loom off the main harness and getting that cleaned up, and finally relocating the idler pulley for the serp belt to give me clearance for the new fan temp switch. Got it mostly ready to fire and leak check, only to realize I left the key on overnight and the battery is now dead. Hooked up the jump box and it's needs a charge as well. There's always tomorrow.
Got wiring from alternator redone as well as other wires to solenoid run more properly.
she’s running better than ever with good voltage to ECM. Idle is where it should be instead of 900ish, IAC seems to be reading more properly and it started up 2-3 revs faster than previously.
Hit a few surprises in the process and surprised it operated as well as it did with some of the splices we uncovered.
ordered some new loom and Tesa tape that I plan on doing Sunday. Hope warm weather shows back up next week so I can see how she does when running more than idle. I’ve got high hopes, though.
Starting my attempt to see if I can ut inner seals in my Dana 44. Will update.
update got the carrier out now trying to get somewhat of a measurement to find the right. Seal. Looks like as long as it’s. 01 larger than the bore it will work
update . I installed a seal inboard of the wheel bearing cup. Yes installed it backward . I know the spring is supposed to go toward the lube always . This will hopefully stop the oil from the differential from making it to the wheel seal. It was a tight fit. I got it square. I looked quite a bit for a correct seal for the differential . Nothing the right size. This fit the housing hood considering there’s not really a dedicated spot for it
update. Nope not enough clearance. Pulled her out of the gwrage . I gotta pull it back I and fix that tomorrow..
Update. Ok I was able to hammer im them in a little more should be good now, I think it can only help. Shady ? yes a little. But if it keeps oil out of the brake backing plate it’s a success for now. I will have to check on it. I feel positive this morning. Repacked Those wheel. Earrings with a grease gun needle:
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