Switched wires and mine works better than ever!!! Thank you guys.
Because the current draw melts the connector, causing it to warp and loose connection. If you have this problem, you will have intermittent blower operation, or no blower operation at all. I have the AZC, so I don't have the resistor block, but I understand that it burns out some of the resistors, too.But are you guys changing the resistor because of a dead blower or some other symptom?
Yes theres a leak some where. The psi was at 1/2 of what i put in it the next day. Ill bring it in to get checked for both leaks freon & water leaking from ac drain in passenger side.I hate to say this, but if you lost freon, you have a leak, somewhere. It doesn't just disappear, at least, in large quantities.
The R134a molecules are small enough that some will slip past the rubber seals, but not in enough quantity that you would notice. If you air is not blowing cold, and it was, not very long ago, then, my friend, you have a leak, somewhere.
My first advice would be to add some dye to your system. It may help you track down where your leak is, using a black-light and yellow glasses. If you are unable to find it that way, you might need to get a leak detector.
Good luck with it. I am glad you made it blow cold, again, but it will probably happen to you, again, until you find the source of the leak.
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mike_84 said:I believe this is the same problem I'm having right now on my 2000 Limited with the auto temp control & dual zone climate, I just want to make sure this is correct. The heat and ac went out back in February while I was driving, I turned the heat on to the floor vents and it stopped working. Before that happened everything worked normal, however I did hear a loud sound from the dash when I turned it on with the air on a few times. It sounded like metal scraping against glass. The only fault code I get is 52 = AI (Recirc) door travel range too large, I can hear the blend doors move right now when I turn the fans on. Also right before it happened, the air flow seemed to work better on auto than manual. My dad told me to change out the blower motor/fan and I did. I went ahead and changed them out and still no air. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1375700&cc=1381418&jnid=420&jpid=1 After reading everything in this thread, I believe its the resistor that went out. If I buy a new resistor, will I have to swap the wires around that go to the blower motor? And is the wire that comes out of the resistor the same one that goes to the blower motor? This is the same resistor in both
Sorry, had to delete part of your quote. Not sure what is going on, but I could not see what I was typing, on my iPad.
Anyhow, the 52 error, recirc door has little to nothing to do with the blower motor operation.
Take a look at the blower motor section from the GC bible: http://www.wjjeeps.com/blower_motor.htm
I think it will help. You can also confirm that you are ordering the correct parts. Good luck.
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