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Switched wires and mine works better than ever!!! Thank you guys.
 

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But are you guys changing the resistor because of a dead blower or some other symptom?
Because the current draw melts the connector, causing it to warp and loose connection. If you have this problem, you will have intermittent blower operation, or no blower operation at all. I have the AZC, so I don't have the resistor block, but I understand that it burns out some of the resistors, too.

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I hate to say this, but if you lost freon, you have a leak, somewhere. It doesn't just disappear, at least, in large quantities.
The R134a molecules are small enough that some will slip past the rubber seals, but not in enough quantity that you would notice. If you air is not blowing cold, and it was, not very long ago, then, my friend, you have a leak, somewhere.
My first advice would be to add some dye to your system. It may help you track down where your leak is, using a black-light and yellow glasses. If you are unable to find it that way, you might need to get a leak detector.
Good luck with it. I am glad you made it blow cold, again, but it will probably happen to you, again, until you find the source of the leak.

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Yes theres a leak some where. The psi was at 1/2 of what i put in it the next day. Ill bring it in to get checked for both leaks freon & water leaking from ac drain in passenger side.

I just got the jeep & i didn't know about the ac leak.
 

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Sorry to bump an old thread, but I just replaced the resistor in my Limited WJ (AZC) and am getting VERY weak flow from the vents. Is the solution to put the GREEN wire to the FRONT of the jeep? I can provide pictures if helpful.
 

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Hey Puma:

It's been a while since I did this repair. I was in the same boat as you. I had detected an ozone smell inside my jeep and localized it to the Blower Motor Resistor. I took it to the dealership and they confirmed that the resistor was burnt out. After the replacement (a redesigned Blower Motor Resistor), my cabin air was very weak.

The picture I posted on page 2 of this thread has the green wire (BEFORE the repair) facing the passenger seat.

Others have documented that the Blower Motor Resistor's wiring setup is incorrect and that Mopar never fixed this error. In effect, the fan blades are spinning in the wrong direction (toward the outside of the vehicle instead of into the cabin). Another descriptive example would be a household floor fan and putting yourself on the back side of it.

I just took apart my jeep to take some pics. I'm not a real mechanic, but I got my Jeep A/C and Heat working fine. I "suffered" 18 months after the resistor replacement before fixing this issue.
 

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Getting access to the wiring harness:

This takes only 2-3 minutes.

1. Remove the passenger door-sill step plate. This is set in by fast connect clips and can be removed by hand or a small pry tool.

2. Remove the underlying plastic mold. This is held in by 3 cross-tip screws and easily pulls out.

You should now have easy access to the wiring harness.
 

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Doing the repair:

The last image is from 10 months ago and taken before I spliced the wiring. It is repeated from page 2 of this thread.

The other images were taken from today.

1. I disconnected the negative connection from the vehicle battery.

2. I cut the blower motor wire close to the blower motor (but leaving room for play).

3. I respliced the wires with green (from resistor) to black (from blower motor).

4. I respliced the wires with black (from resistor) to green (from blower motor).

5. I then ensured that all wires were taped and secured.

6. I reconnected the negative connection on the battery.

7. I started the vehicle and was instantly happy. It worked.

8. Replaced door moldings.

I have had no issues with the A/C and Heater since the repair. A more professional method would be to switch the wires attached to the connector. I chose to cut and splice so I would not lose track of how the wires had to be switched. Also, at this point I had spent $1800 on A/C issues alone between the resistor and a bad evaporator. I was too peeved at this point not to splice.
 

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Just taking a break from banging my head against a wall to say thanks for this thread. Have been chasing this problem for a year or so with no success, this thread finally solved it for me. Very irritated with chrysler right now...

:thumbsup: thanks!
 

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Does this fix also work on the manual environmental control?

I have a 2002 GC Laredo with what sounds like the same problem.
- blower on high but I get very little airflow out of the vents.
- recirc door functions properly
 

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Does this fix also work on the manual environmental contro?

I have a '02 GC Laredo with a very similar sounding problem
- I don't get very much air flow out of my vents. Actually maybe only 1 or 2 put out anything noticeable.
- recirc door works properly

This is driving me crazy because it is freezing here in MN and I just can't get the volume of air to warm my car up.
 

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I'm not sure what wires everyone is talking about. I replaced the resistor a couple of months ago, and when you turn the heat on you hear it going just nothing comes out it bizarre. This sounds like the solution, I'm just not sure about which wires.
 

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I just registered after all the help I received on the ac issue. Every discussion nailed it. And after replacing the resistor, blower switch, and selector switch, I had weak air flow. I found that I could just pull the plug from the motor spin it around and plug it back in. Worked like a champ. I registered mainly so I could get on here and say THANKS TO ALL.
 

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I believe this is the same problem I'm having right now on my 2000 Limited with the auto temp control & dual zone climate, I just want to make sure this is correct.

The heat and ac went out back in February while I was driving, I turned the heat on to the floor vents and it stopped working. Before that happened everything worked normal, however I did hear a loud sound from the dash when I turned it on with the air on a few times. It sounded like metal scraping against glass.

The only fault code I get is 52 = AI (Recirc) door travel range too large, I can hear the blend doors move right now when I turn the fans on. Also right before it happened, the air flow seemed to work better on auto than manual.

My dad told me to change out the blower motor/fan and I did. I went ahead and changed them out and still no air.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1375700&cc=1381418&jnid=420&jpid=1

After reading everything in this thread, I believe its the resistor that went out. If I buy a new resistor, will I have to swap the wires around that go to the blower motor? And is the wire that comes out of the resistor the same one that goes to the blower motor?

This is the same resistor in both links, the pictures are throwing me off.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1320184&cc=1381418&jnid=419&jpid=3
http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-RU358-Resistor/dp/B001BFRQDW/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_1

Or could this problem be the recirculation door being broken, blend doors, blown fuse, or something else. Sorry about the long post, no ac with black leather seats won't cut it. Thanks.
 

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mike_84 said:
I believe this is the same problem I'm having right now on my 2000 Limited with the auto temp control & dual zone climate, I just want to make sure this is correct. The heat and ac went out back in February while I was driving, I turned the heat on to the floor vents and it stopped working. Before that happened everything worked normal, however I did hear a loud sound from the dash when I turned it on with the air on a few times. It sounded like metal scraping against glass. The only fault code I get is 52 = AI (Recirc) door travel range too large, I can hear the blend doors move right now when I turn the fans on. Also right before it happened, the air flow seemed to work better on auto than manual. My dad told me to change out the blower motor/fan and I did. I went ahead and changed them out and still no air. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1375700&cc=1381418&jnid=420&jpid=1 After reading everything in this thread, I believe its the resistor that went out. If I buy a new resistor, will I have to swap the wires around that go to the blower motor? And is the wire that comes out of the resistor the same one that goes to the blower motor? This is the same resistor in both

Mike,
Sorry, had to delete part of your quote. Not sure what is going on, but I could not see what I was typing, on my iPad.
Anyhow, the 52 error, recirc door has little to nothing to do with the blower motor operation.
Take a look at the blower motor section from the GC bible: http://www.wjjeeps.com/blower_motor.htm
I think it will help. You can also confirm that you are ordering the correct parts. Good luck.

Sent from my iPad using JeepForum
 

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Or you can use a small screwdriver to pop the safety cap off the end of the connector and flip the wire positions.

 

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Sorry about not responding sooner. I went ahead and bought this resistor and the green Dorman electrical connector wires.
http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-RU358-Resistor/dp/B001BFRQDW/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_1?tag=viglink20314-20

Amazon has the wrong picture for it, its the improved one with the mounting bracket. I connected the 3 wires by splicing them and used butt connectors from the Dorman wires. The thin one in the middle coming from the Jeep was a pain to keep in place while I melted the butt connector, but I got it.

The air works now, not at full force however. The new blower fan is really loud on high, which I knew about that from the Amazon reviews for it. I didn't think it was going to be that loud.

I fully understand about swapping the wires around that go to the blower motor now, if I do that will that help blow more air out? Because the fan may be spinning backwards.

Also when I reconnected the battery (only the negative unhooked), the aftermarket radio that's installed doesn't come back on. Did I blow a fuse, everything else inside works.

Edit: I think I may have screwed up. I went ahead and disconnected the 2 way connector from the blower motor and removed the safety cap to swap the wires around. The design is different compared to the factory one, it has 2 gold hoop pins inside it.

I managed to pull one of the pins half way out and I can't get it to go back inside the clip towards the wire, you can bend it in and it makes a click sound. I don't know if the gold pin comes out with the wire as one or remove the gold pin first then pull out the wire. I'll take a picture if needed.
 

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Bumping the thread so I can find it when I need it! Good info here.
OR you could just bookmark it on your computer instead of bumping an old thread. If the mods feel it's worthy of being on the front page, they'll pin it or put it in the FAQ.
 
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