Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner
21 - 40 of 75 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I have a 2000 GJ that I bought with this issue. I bought another blower motor from the salvage yard for $15 but before removing the one that is in there ( I had suspected a bad squirrel cage) I read this forum. I unplugged the motor, plugged up to the one I bought and sure enough it was spinning the wrong way (the motor has the correct rotation on the back). I was unable to remove the wires from the plug to reverse them so I cut them and reconnected them in reverse(I was also unable to get to the wires at the blower resistor due to location and length of wire to work with), hooked it back up to the extra motor and it was spinning the correct way and actually moving some air. Replugged the motor that is still in the GJ and now I have much better airflow!! Thank you for the information!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
THANK YOU!! I just had blower motor and resistor replaced. The air flow was so weak. I going this forum and switched the green and black wires at the blower motor. Presto - so much air flow I couldn't believe it. Why on earth are they still selling this resistor with the damn wires wrong. http://m.justforjeeps.com/alblmoreandw.html
There's actually a footnote about it not blowing as hard -this is normal they say. WTF?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Lack of air after replacing blower and resistor pack

If airflow seems minimal from a new blower motor and resistor pack replacement, it is caused from the fan motor rotation being incorrect. The best way to fix is to reverse the leads at the power connection into the fan motor.

Look for the blue retainer clip and use a small jeweler's screw driver to remove the blue clip. Also, you will need to look for the two small black locking clips at the two wire ends. When these are released, you will be able to easily exchange the wire ends at the power connection and then reinstall the blue retainer clip after the leads have been switched. The problem stems from a reversal of the wiring within the new resistor packs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
I found this thread because 1) everyone notices how loud my fan is when they get in my GC the first time. It makes a sound... almost like the blades are just slightly touching something. and 2) it doesnt seem (to me) to push as much air as I think it should. On high, with recirc on its like medium to any other car i get in an blast the A/C.

I found the blower, it has been replaced and has pins i can easily remove and swap the direction... Its def blowing the right direction. My question is: are there faster or beefier fans to push more air? Did the prev owner buy a cheapy and its not doing much? I'm going to drop the fan and make sure nothing is rubbing against the blades...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
A comment and a question.

When the foam has failed to join the pipes to the vents that are blowing into the passanger cabin just remove the radio and facade around the radio. You should have enough room to get your hands in and use duct tape to close the gap - mine was 2"-4" in places. I have to redo this work every couple of years. If someone has a better idea please post.

Lately I have noticed that the blower motor blows inconsistently, when I slow down it seems to blow harder, when I accelerate it seems to blow less.

Any ideas?

Thanks,


JAB
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
I decided to go out and take some pictures on how to remove the facade to get to the the vents where the foam has died.

Pry off the facade covering the radio:


Then remove the radio and A/C console:


Should look like this:


My tape job to close off gap:


I added tape wherever I could find cold air blowing where it should not be.

Not pictured, I had to add tape above the vents and below the floor of the section that the radio sits.

Another question:
What are these two wire harnesses for (these are located behind the ashtray section?


ps. I have thick skin so if you see that I did something stupid/wrong let me know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
I decided to go out and take some pictures on how to remove the facade to get to the the vents where the foam has died.

Pry off the facade covering the radio:

Then remove the radio and A/C console:

Should look like this:

My tape job to close off gap:

I added tape wherever I could find cold air blowing where it should not be.

Not pictured, I had to add tape above the vents and below the floor of the section that the radio sits.

Another question:
What are these two wire harnesses for (these are located behind the ashtray section?

ps. I have thick skin so if you see that I did something stupid/wrong let me know.
Looks like a quick and easy fix I'm gonna give that a try on my truck and see how it goes. Also the 2 harnesses are for heated seats wj came prewired if I'm not wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Resistor melted

Hi I replaced the melted resistor, wire & swapped the wires at the fan motor it fix the air flow problem but its not cold air when A/C is on but it was before I swapped the wires. Is it the error code? Any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,051 Posts
Hi I replaced the melted resistor, wire & swapped the wires at the fan motor it fix the air flow problem but its not cold air when A/C is on but it was before I swapped the wires. Is it the error code? Any ideas?
First, if it is dual-zone, you might try the recalibration, shown at the bottom of http://www.wjjeeps.com/climate.htm.
The IOD fuse, is fuse 15, in the Power Distribution Panel, under the hood, (near the battery) http://www.wjjeeps.com/misc/power_dist_ctr_02.jpg

If it is not dual-zone, maybe you sprung an a/c leak in that time and it's a coincindence?

Sent from my iPad using Electrons
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
First, if it is dual-zone, you might try the recalibration, shown at the bottom of http://www.wjjeeps.com/climate.htm.
The IOD fuse, is fuse 15, in the Power Distribution Panel, under the hood, (near the battery) http://www.wjjeeps.com/misc/power_dist_ctr_02.jpg

If it is not dual-zone, maybe you sprung an a/c leak in that time and it's a coincindence?

Sent from my iPad using Electrons
It was almost no freon. I had some already from may last car. Now its work good hopefully theres no leak in the system. Thanks for the help this is a good forum .:cheers2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,051 Posts
It was almost no freon. I had some already from may last car. Now its work good hopefully theres no leak in the system. Thanks for the help this is a good forum .:cheers2:
I hate to say this, but if you lost freon, you have a leak, somewhere. It doesn't just disappear, at least, in large quantities.
The R134a molecules are small enough that some will slip past the rubber seals, but not in enough quantity that you would notice. If you air is not blowing cold, and it was, not very long ago, then, my friend, you have a leak, somewhere.
My first advice would be to add some dye to your system. It may help you track down where your leak is, using a black-light and yellow glasses. If you are unable to find it that way, you might need to get a leak detector.
Good luck with it. I am glad you made it blow cold, again, but it will probably happen to you, again, until you find the source of the leak.

Sent from my iPad using Electrons
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,051 Posts
I was wondering if they come from the factory messed up or if it's just after changing the resistor? And what symptoms lead to the resistor.
I am not sure who makes the resistor repair kit, but it comes from them wired backwards. The cause of the problems are detailed here: http://www.wjjeeps.com/blower_motor.htm
I only bought and installed the wiring kit for mine, so it comes un-connected, meaning you have to insert the wires into the connector, and solder those wires to the old resistor wires.
Sent from my iPad using Electrons
 
21 - 40 of 75 Posts
Top