One of my wheeling buddies did it with a 1” stretch using custom springs. I’ll try to get a picture of it tomorrow when we do our memorial weekend run. Off the top of my head, I can’t remember what it looks like.
Waggy 44 front swap - Steering question
I have a Waggy 44 front set up SUA under my YJ.
I have 7 leaf waggy front springs turned backwards for a 2" forward stretch.
I have the MORE steering box mount that moved the box 1" forward and down a little.
I know others have done the waggy 44 swap and waggy spring swap successfully.
I can 't seem to find a steering solution that works.
The stock YJ pitman arm hits the tie rod.
The 7" C2C waggy pitman arm puts the drag link behind the tie rod causing the two to make contact during steering.
I tried a 5.5" C2C 3/4" drop from flat arm but the tie rod hits it when the suspension compresses.
I tried a 5" C2C 3/4" drop from flat arm but the tie rod hits the DL when the suspension compresses.
I tried a CJ pitman arm but because it is flat it hits the box mount (where the DLE nut is).
I tried a passenger side flat top knuckle with a steering arm and a custom length drag link (crossover steering) - this resolves the contact between the tie rod and drag link but not between the pitman/DLE and tie rod. The crossover steering puts the drag link 1" below the frame eliminating all but 1" of uptravel. That's a no go.
Show me your Waggy 44 and what you did for steering!
I don't want to give up the 2" stretch
I have 7 leaf waggy front springs turned backwards for a 2" forward stretch.
I have the MORE steering box mount that moved the box 1" forward and down a little.
I know others have done the waggy 44 swap and waggy spring swap successfully.
I can 't seem to find a steering solution that works.
The stock YJ pitman arm hits the tie rod.
The 7" C2C waggy pitman arm puts the drag link behind the tie rod causing the two to make contact during steering.
I tried a 5.5" C2C 3/4" drop from flat arm but the tie rod hits it when the suspension compresses.
I tried a 5" C2C 3/4" drop from flat arm but the tie rod hits the DL when the suspension compresses.
I tried a CJ pitman arm but because it is flat it hits the box mount (where the DLE nut is).
I tried a passenger side flat top knuckle with a steering arm and a custom length drag link (crossover steering) - this resolves the contact between the tie rod and drag link but not between the pitman/DLE and tie rod. The crossover steering puts the drag link 1" below the frame eliminating all but 1" of uptravel. That's a no go.
Show me your Waggy 44 and what you did for steering!
I don't want to give up the 2" stretch
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
We probably need to know more about what your current setup is. Tie rod flip? High steer? SOA or SUA? Lift height?
I've gone through so many iterations of steering, lift, and front stretch, I'm struggling to remember what matched up with what. However, looking through old pictures and orders, I think I used the Rough Country 6602 pitman arm with high steer knuckles and SOA leafs.
I've gone through so many iterations of steering, lift, and front stretch, I'm struggling to remember what matched up with what. However, looking through old pictures and orders, I think I used the Rough Country 6602 pitman arm with high steer knuckles and SOA leafs.
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I am SUA with about 3" of lift. Tie rod is in the stock waggy position (top of the knuckle arms). Can't go high steer as it won't clear. Crossover steering limits the uptravel to 1" before the drag link hits the frame.
I could ream the knuckles to move the tie rod to the bottom and ream the high steer arm to move the drag link to the bottom but that will only buy less than 2" of clearance and require a custom tie rod to clear the springs (factory drag link attachment point will hit the passenger spring).
I could ream the knuckles to move the tie rod to the bottom and ream the high steer arm to move the drag link to the bottom but that will only buy less than 2" of clearance and require a custom tie rod to clear the springs (factory drag link attachment point will hit the passenger spring).
Got any pictures of what you've got?
No pics, but i have a-
-2.5” OME spring under (YJ springs)
-Waggy D44
-ford D44 knuckles and hubs
-tie rod flip
-Y link style drag link
-stock YJ steering box
-stock Waggy pitman arm
I simply relocated my steering box bracket to exactly where i needed it to be on the frame so that nothing rubs or binds, and that the angles line up.
-2.5” OME spring under (YJ springs)
-Waggy D44
-ford D44 knuckles and hubs
-tie rod flip
-Y link style drag link
-stock YJ steering box
-stock Waggy pitman arm
I simply relocated my steering box bracket to exactly where i needed it to be on the frame so that nothing rubs or binds, and that the angles line up.
If you get rid of your sway bar, it may free up a lot of wiggle room and allow you to run the high steer option that it looks like you have. You absolutely don't need a sway bar on a YJ. Also, don't be afraid to dump the whole balljoint tie rod and drag link. Straight reaming the knuckles and pitman arm to 3/4" (I think) will allow you to run heim joints where ever you see fit (top or bottom). Besides being way stronger, it will also allow you to bend the tubes to accommodate whatever angle you need to clear everything. Take a look at what I did above.
Feel your pain.
Ended up with a shackle reversal saving me.
Using a TJ pitman and stock waggy steer, basically max 1.25” OD drag link and tie rod otherwise the two touch (1.5 rub).
The SR pushes the axle backwards away from the steering instead of pushing it up into it.
Believe your only option is to push the box forward, custom fab job.
Ended up with a shackle reversal saving me.
Using a TJ pitman and stock waggy steer, basically max 1.25” OD drag link and tie rod otherwise the two touch (1.5 rub).
The SR pushes the axle backwards away from the steering instead of pushing it up into it.
Believe your only option is to push the box forward, custom fab job.
So you are saying move the steering box forward but keep the axle location the same I think? Is 1” forward adequate or ?The SR pushes the axle backwards away from the steering instead of pushing it up into it.
Believe your only option is to push the box forward, custom fab job.
YesSo you are saying move the steering box forward but keep the axle location the same I think?
Doubt it. The axle is already pushed 2" forward with the waggy springs AND when flexed will push the axle forward/up more with the shackles in the front.Is 1” forward adequate or ?
The HD steering mount will move the box forward 1 1/4". So as of now, I'm guessing he might be able to put the steering together with a stock TJ/YJ pitman but with any flex, the parts will start interfering.
Personal guess, 1" more for a total of 2.25" might be enough to put steering on but with the longer arch of the waggy springs, probably closer to 3" (wag) is needed to clear when flexing. The HD steering mount pushes the box about the max before moving out past the stock frame. To get more than 1.25", a custom mount and bumper setup are probably going to be needed.
The steering will stretch/slide out but getting close to needed a longer shaft too.
As above, have the same issue with the SR pushing the axle ~2" forward and the HD steering mount only pushing it 1.25" forward. I can get away with it because the axle move back away from the steering on compression and drops down below on extension.
With the waggy knuckles and a TJ pitman, it limits my steering but the tires interfere with the frame at about the same time, so not an big issue.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
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