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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So as of Thursday my 2000 Jeep wrangler TJ sport 4.0 in-line 6 engine hasn't been starting. I turn the key in the ignition and receive silence, the dash lights up like normal as well as my pioneer radio booting as if I have just turned the engine over. I thought and was told by my father it was the starter, but after installation, and rechecking my connections it still will not turn over. My next step is to swap the ignition switch, but I originally didn't think it could be that as all my dash electronics were still working.

If any of ya'll have some advice as to confirm or deny its the ignition switch or something else it would be much appreciated before i throw more of my already limited budget at this wall.

also this is my first post here so any comments on proper formatting and information needed would be helpful. TM
 

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So you checked the battery and both cables? Sometimes the cables wear but don't show it.
 

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Remember when you changed the starter, there was two wires leading to it. One was very heavy and attached t a post, this one should have power all the time(I suspect it does) but use a test light to be sure. The smaller wire is the one that activates the starter solenoid and thus allows the starter to engage and turn the engine over. It will have power only when the ignition is in the start position. Have a friend turn the ignition to the start position (clutch pushed in and in neutral with foot on brake pedal} .while you check it with the test light. If the light does not come on then the problem is in the wiring or switches before the starter. Now it could be the ignition switch, but it could also be clutch position switch (neutral safety switch if automatic), the starter relay or any open wiring in that circuit. If you need a wiring diagram, use a good search engine and look for a shop manual for your year and model TJ.
 

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I have had the same thing happen to my 2000 Jeep TJ. The dash lights up but the engine doesn’t crank when you turn the key. It ended up being a broken actuator pin in the ignition switch. Here’s a great video on how to replace it:


-Rich
 

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Ok, I'm having the same issue...Mine is a '97 TJ, Auto...fun part with mine, key will turn to ACC and "Run" position, but will not turn any further to engage the starter. I replaced my ignition actuator pin set up (part #924-704 from O'Reilly)...re-installed everything, still no joy...I can take the cylinder out an start it with a screwdriver, so I am guessing it may be my cylinder at this point...any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Remember when you changed the starter, there was two wires leading to it. One was very heavy and attached t a post, this one should have power all the time(I suspect it does) but use a test light to be sure. The smaller wire is the one that activates the starter solenoid and thus allows the starter to engage and turn the engine over. It will have power only when the ignition is in the start position. Have a friend turn the ignition to the start position (clutch pushed in and in neutral with foot on brake pedal} .while you check it with the test light. If the light does not come on then the problem is in the wiring or switches before the starter. Now it could be the ignition switch, but it could also be clutch position switch (neutral safety switch if automatic), the starter relay or any open wiring in that circuit. If you need a wiring diagram, use a good search engine and look for a shop manual for your year and model TJ.
I believe this is the point that I'm at. I've been checking everything praying it wont be wiring as a lack the funds, time, and knowledge to get that fixed within the near future. I have replaced the ignition switch to no avail, as well as attempting to bypass the clutch safety by switching the fuses (as shown in a video) and it also didnt work. Just got done removeing the acuator pin thinking this may be my issue but i cant see anything wrong with it.
 

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Did you turn the ignition switch when you had it apart as suggested in the link I posted?

That is an important part of the process as the results of that test dictates what to do next.
 

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Did you turn the ignition switch when you had it apart as suggested in the link I posted?

That is an important part of the process as the results of that test dictates what to do next.
I did...still didn't want to turn fully...not saying it was a waste of $60 for the actuator pin set up, but I am leaning towards my actual cylinder at this point...I can put a screw driver in the cylinder slot, and it will start...I've sprayed the cylinder with carb cleaner (lots of nasty stuff came out), then applied locksmith oil to it...it turns a little better, without being in the cylinder hole, but once inserted it will only turn to the "on" position.
 

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Correct I turned the ignition switch with a screwdriver and still nothing
You must have a manual trans since you said you tried bypassing the clutch switch, right?

Was that by putting a fuse in slot 20 in the fuse block behind the glove box? If yes but no go, pull that fuse & check for 12v at the fuse terminal when the ignition switch is turned with screwdriver or key to the start position (try both terminals if need).

If no 12v, with the fuse back in make sure you are in neutral & parking brake is set then over to the ignition switch & unplug the connector, find the red wire at pin 7 & the yellow wire at pin 10 & use a short wire to jump across those 2 terminals. If it now starts the ignition switch is bad.

If it still will not crank/start post back for next step.

Rectangle Font Parallel Screenshot Number
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Remember when you changed the starter, there was two wires leading to it. One was very heavy and attached t a post, this one should have power all the time(I suspect it does) but use a test light to be sure. The smaller wire is the one that activates the starter solenoid and thus allows the starter to engage and turn the engine over. It will have power only when the ignition is in the start position. Have a friend turn the ignition to the start position (clutch pushed in and in neutral with foot on brake pedal} .while you check it with the test light. If the light does not come on then the problem is in the wiring or switches before the starter. Now it could be the ignition switch, but it could also be clutch position switch (neutral safety switch if automatic), the starter relay or any open wiring in that circuit. If you need a wiring diagram, use a good search engine and look for a shop manual for your year and model TJ.
Hey, checking the cable straight from the battery to the post and it is live, so I then checked the cable to the solenoid with a buddy like you said and the light didn't come on. So I've definitely isolated the problem to that. Any chance it could just be that connector, or is it more likely something with the cables itself. I Already bypassed the CSS, replaced the Ignition switch, and tested the relay by using the horn relay instead and nothing worked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You must have a manual trans since you said you tried bypassing the clutch switch, right?

Was that by putting a fuse in slot 20 in the fuse block behind the glove box? If yes but no go, pull that fuse & check for 12v at the fuse terminal when the ignition switch is turned with screwdriver or key to the start position (try both terminals if need).

If no 12v, with the fuse back in make sure you are in neutral & parking brake is set then over to the ignition switch & unplug the connector, find the red wire at pin 7 & the yellow wire at pin 10 & use a short wire to jump across those 2 terminals. If it now starts the ignition switch is bad.

If it still will not crank/start post back for next step.

View attachment 4132801
So I already replaced the ignition switch and that didn't do anything, I should check those fuses, but would I be able to get a good test using a light or will I need to get my hands on a voltmeter.
 

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A test light is actually the best thing to use. However since you already replaced the switch checking for 12v at fuse 20 & inserting a fuse if you did not already do that will probably do nothing unless the very unlikely case of a bad switch doing the exact same thing.

I would move on to the relay. Pull the relay & check terminal 30 (b1 in the diagram) for 12v from fuse 8 in the PDC (same box as the relays) & assuming it has 12v make a jumper & in neutral & brake set jump to terminal 87 (b2 in the diagram). That has a large amp draw so the jumper will get hot pretty fast so use insulated wire or hold a bare wire jumper with pliers when inserting it. If that engages the starter you should be able to actually start it by turning the key to the on position. This will tell you if that part of the relay circuit (to starter solenoid & the starter itself is good. If that works you will only have 2 more checks to see why the relay is not closing when you turn the key to start.

That will take some time so post results & if it does crank & start I will get to that tomorrow.

Rectangle Font Parallel Building Schematic
 
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