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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For yall that have had the transmission fluid and coolant mix, in both the transmission and the cooling system, were you able to salvage it? If you did, what all did you do? I just had this happen and am trying to decide what to do. Either buy something else or try to drop transmission, flush everything, replace lines and radiator, flush the block, then hope it works. 2000 WJ 4.7 4x4, 175k miles, everything leaks, needs a new steering gear box.
 

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That would be a cooler leak in the radiator. You can bypass that with an external cooler. Then you will have to flush all that coolant out. I think if I was doing it I would pull the tranny out to drain every last drop out of it and get everything out of the torque converter. Refill and drain twice when you put it back in
 

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Exactly what happened to mine, cooler in rad failed.
Most likely your tranny will need a rebuild because the water pretty much instantly destroys the clutch material.
Suck a cup of fluid out the fill tube, if its a cloudy pink, let it sit for a day, a residue will form on the bottom of the cup, that the clutch material and the trans needs a total rebuild.
My repair, new rad, and an external cooler bypassing the one in the rad.
Transmission was toast, full rebuild of pretty much everything except the case LOL, Don't forget the torque converter too.
Most transmission shops will give you 3 options
Cheapest: salvage/junk yard transmission (no idea what your getting)
Rebuild yours (option i chose) My shop used the parts from the Ram HD version as the original solonoid packs are no longer avalible. So the rebuid is actually better than the original.
Replacement rebuilt.
And warranty will be the least on junk yard one.

The thing is to ask around and read reviews when picking your shop. They have to know how to do the model in our jeeps as its not a Chevy slushbox.

Good luck, keep us informed
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Exactly what happened to mine, cooler in rad failed.
Most likely your tranny will need a rebuild because the water pretty much instantly destroys the clutch material.
Suck a cup of fluid out the fill tube, if its a cloudy pink, let it sit for a day, a residue will form on the bottom of the cup, that the clutch material and the trans needs a total rebuild.
My repair, new rad, and an external cooler bypassing the one in the rad.
Transmission was toast, full rebuild of pretty much everything except the case LOL, Don't forget the torque converter too.
Most transmission shops will give you 3 options
Cheapest: salvage/junk yard transmission (no idea what your getting)
Rebuild yours (option i chose) My shop used the parts from the Ram HD version as the original solonoid packs are no longer avalible. So the rebuid is actually better than the original.
Replacement rebuilt.
And warranty will be the least on junk yard one.

The thing is to ask around and read reviews when picking your shop. They have to know how to do the model in our jeeps as its not a Chevy slushbox.

Good luck, keep us informed
Damn I was thinking the transmission would probably fail too. The transmission fluid is definitely milky, I'll suck some out to see if the residue forms. We were going to drop it and flush the transmission and engine/cooling system, hoping it will work. But I've heard about the clutches failing. My dad has a shop with a lift so we can do the work. Just wondering if the price and time will be worth it with how old it is. Would also do the rear main seal and steering gear box since both are shot.
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For yall that have had the transmission fluid and coolant mix, in both the transmission and the cooling system, were you able to salvage it? If you did, what all did you do? I just had this happen and am trying to decide what to do. Either buy something else or try to drop transmission, flush everything, replace lines and radiator, flush the block, then hope it works. 2000 WJ 4.7 4x4, 175k miles, everything leaks, needs a new steering gear box.
What I've heard is that the transmission is pretty much dead. A friend of mine went the rebuild route.
Dual cooler rad - another example of cheap-*** engineering. 'Theoretically - the rad should never rupture', welcome to the real world....
 

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And…depending on what electronics are in that 545, those may be toast too. Nissan had a full blown class action lawsuit over that same issue. Pathfinder rebuild was $2500…plus another $1500 to put a new computer in the tranny. It hurts little to do the 2x flush…you are only out $100 or so in fluid.
Depending on the glue they used on the clutch plates, there is zero to total wipeout on the plates.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
And…depending on what electronics are in that 545, those may be toast too. Nissan had a full blown class action lawsuit over that same issue. Pathfinder rebuild was $2500…plus another $1500 to put a new computer in the tranny. It hurts little to do the 2x flush…you are only out $100 or so in fluid.
Depending on the glue they used on the clutch plates, there is zero to total wipeout on the plates.

I'm about to start pulling things apart. We're gonna try flushing everything, replace cooling lines if they've swelled up from the transmission fluid, new transmission filter, radiator, etc. Gonna do 2 or 3 transmission flushes. I'm not too optimistic on the transmission surviving but I'm gonna try it. If it works, great, if not I'll buy something else.
 

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Flushing is a waste of time. Your frictions and seals are ruined. The rubbers will swell, the frictions will crumble.

I just had this happen on 2004 Trailblazer 4L60E, which has a band. The band friction material had totally delaminated from the steel backing.

Rust had begun to form on the stamped steel parts, the check valves in pistons rusted in, closed.

The ring gears beginning to rust (not a big deal)...

On your trans, you will have to flush the planets thoroughly, with pure mineral spirits.

Pop the torringtons apart, flush with varsol, or replace.

Spring cage sheet metal rusting, snap rings rusting. Piston seals swelling, pooching out.

The torque converter is probably shot, and no way can you totally empty that item, not with 20 flushes.

Strip and rebuild, or get it all over.

Replace radiator, torque converter, if rubber lines, inspect closely, flush the lines before reconnecting to rebuilt trans.

Solenoid pack rubbers hurt. VB springs rusting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Flushing is a waste of time. Your frictions and seals are ruined. The rubbers will swell, the frictions will crumble.

I just had this happen on 2004 Trailblazer 4L60E, which has a band. The band friction material had totally delaminated from the steel backing.

Rust had begun to form on the stamped steel parts, the check valves in pistons rusted in, closed.

The ring gears beginning to rust (not a big deal)...

On your trans, you will have to flush the planets thoroughly, with pure mineral spirits.

Pop the torringtons apart, flush with varsol, or replace.

Spring cage sheet metal rusting, snap rings rusting. Piston seals swelling, pooching out.

The torque converter is probably shot, and no way can you totally empty that item, not with 20 flushes.

Strip and rebuild, or get it all over.

Replace radiator, torque converter, if rubber lines, inspect closely, flush the lines before reconnecting to rebuilt trans.

Solenoid pack rubbers hurt. VB springs rusting.
It survived. I fully expected it to be a waste of time and money too, but it's running great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What did you do?
New transmission filters(flat and round), new cooling hoses, net t-stat, new radiator, new fluids. Cleaned out the coolant reservoir and replaced the hose, flushed the engine block with a hose until it was just clean water, flushed the transmission until all of the milky fluid was gone and it was just new fluid flowing. The day the transmission cooler broke and the fluids mixed, I drained the coolant, removed the cooling overflow tank because it was full of transmission fluid, removed the radiator and the hoses, drained the transmission fluid and removed the filters. I kept a cup of the old fluid I removed to see if any adhesive material would separate, which would be from the clutch packs.
 
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