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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all,

Hello all, I Just recently bought a 92 Wrangler 4 cylinder, 5 speed,200,000 miles with the 8.8 rear axle conversion. I found out about the rear axle after some research. The previous owner that did all the work passed away so I have no clue about the parts that are on it.
It does need some new tie rod ends but I don’t know if I can buy stock ones for this setup. I was hoping someone might be able to recogonize the tie rod and drag link setup and point me in the right direction as where to by the tie rod ends. Closest one I found was from rugged ridge but they are out of stock and I dont know if they are even the right ones. Edit: Sorry for all the double pics dont know what I did wrong lol
Thanks much
Mike
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Hello all, I Just recently bought a 92 Wrangler 4 cylinder, 5 speed,200,000 miles with the 8.8 rear axle conversion. I found out about the rear axle after some research lol. The previous owner that did all the work passed away so I have no clue about the parts that are on it.
It does need some new tie rod ends but I don’t know if I can buy stock ones for this setup. I was hoping someone might be able to recogonize the tie rod and drag link setup and point me in the right direction as where to by the tie rod ends. Closest one I found was from rugged ridge but they are out of stock and I dont know if they are even the right ones.
Thanks much
Mike
 

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Moderation in Moderation
1995 YJ Wrangler SE
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Nice jeep.

There is a heim joint connecting your drag and tie rod together.

and your tie rod is not stock... it's a little beefier it seems.

Measure the width of the threaded portion that goes into your tie rod. The tie rod end is so past due I can't even tell what it looks like in your photo.

Seems like good work was done to the jeep. You are setup for spring over axle application at the front end. Let us see your rear end 8.8 and a side profile Including the transfer case rear output and driveshaft to the pinion.

Show it off. We'll tell ya what's on it and how to spend your money lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
While you're at it... shownus some of that Cherokee hiding on your driveway lol
The Wrangler was actually towed about 30 miles to my brothers house and thats were it sits now. Funny you mention the rear output shaft, when my brother towed it he disconnected the rear driveshaft and when he went to put it back on the yoke was missing from the T-case. After some more research come to find out the previous owner did that hack and tap ( i think thats what its called) and thats why it fell off. When I get back over there will do on the pics of the Wrangler and the Cherokee👍
 

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Hopefully it wont' be too hard to match up the TRE's. Most HD aftermarket set ups use Chevy HD TRE's.
Are you in Ca.?> I've got some left over YJ stuff and a set of 8.8 shafts I need to get rid of. I am NOT taking them with me to Idaho! 🤪
 

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Moderation in Moderation
1995 YJ Wrangler SE
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Hopefully it wont' be too hard to match up the TRE's. Most HD aftermarket set ups use Chevy HD TRE's.
Are you in Ca.?> I've got some left over YJ stuff and a set of 8.8 shafts I need to get rid of. I am NOT taking them with me to Idaho! 🤪
I assure you my mother, Ida, is NOT a Ho - wise guy.
 

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Moderation in Moderation
1995 YJ Wrangler SE
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The Wrangler was actually towed about 30 miles to my brothers house and thats were it sits now. Funny you mention the rear output shaft, when my brother towed it he disconnected the rear driveshaft and when he went to put it back on the yoke was missing from the T-case. After some more research come to find out the previous owner did that hack and tap ( i think thats what its called) and thats why it fell off. When I get back over there will do on the pics of the Wrangler and the Cherokee👍
Good news!

Looks like after your TRE replacement... you got a proper super short SYE project on your hand. We know your first mod! 👏 😉
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hopefully it wont' be too hard to match up the TRE's. Most HD aftermarket set ups use Chevy HD TRE's.
Are you in Ca.?> I've got some left over YJ stuff and a set of 8.8 shafts I need to get rid of. I am NOT taking them with me to Idaho! 🤪
Not Idaho but Colorado and Thank you for the offer 👍
 

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Yeah those look like standard Chevy tie rod ends, but that's a very strange steering setup. Maybe a really old M.O.R.E. setup? Strange that the tube is threaded instead of having welded inserts.

Looks like the most important mod was already done. I don't see track bars. (y)

Huh. You have aftermarket outers too. Someone who knew what they were doing put that Jeep together.
 

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Not Idaho but Colorado and Thank you for the offer 👍
I'm not in Idaho either... yet. About 5 more months. Still stuck in Ca. Must have looked at a different thread or post and got cornfused thinking you might be in Ca.? Should have noticed the plates. Anywho, the offer is open for anyone close to central Cal. (for about 5 more months) Otherwise, it all might go to the metal recycle... 🙃
 

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Looks like that was spring over at some point and likely the reason they used a bent drag link, instead of properly addressing steering. I'd ditch that bent link all together, but that's just me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If possible, remove one ofthe tie rods and bring to part store. After looking at it, they may be able to identify the btand and size. Or give you a suggestion on what you would need to replace them.
I was hoping
Looks like that was spring over at some point and likely the reason they used a bent drag link, instead of properly addressing steering. I'd ditch that bent link all together, but that's just me.
Yeah, If I cant find those tie rod ends I might end up having to that.
 

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Oof, a double-cardan driveshaft with the standard slip yoke? That driveshaft must be 10" long or less. You'd notice a big difference with a slip yoke eliminator.

You will want to relocate your shock mounts as well. Mine were set up that way and I hit them on EVERYTHING.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Oof, a double-cardan driveshaft with the standard slip yoke? That driveshaft must be 10" long or less. You'd notice a big difference with a slip yoke eliminator.

You will want to relocate your shock mounts as well. Mine were set up that way and I hit them on EVERYTHING.
Yup im finding all of this stuff out now lol. Along with the SYE I think I might have to do some timing chain work its kinda of sounding like a diesel engine. Im still telling myself I think I got a fair deal at $2,600.:unsure:
 

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Most HD aftermarket set ups use Chevy HD TRE's.
Silverado 1500, right?
telling myself I think I got a fair deal at $2,600.:unsure:
you did

I’d personally ditch the drag link anyway. Because the way steering geometry works is that bump steer occurs when a straight line through the drag link ends is not parallel eith the tie rod. The bent drag link is not proper geometry because it isn’t the tubing parallelism that matters but rather the straight line arrangement that affects it.

Do high steer or something else that parallels the drag link straight-line and tie rod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Silverado 1500, right?

you did

I’d personally ditch the drag link anyway. Because the way steering geometry works is that bump steer occurs when a straight line through the drag link ends is not parallel eith the tie rod. The bent drag link is not proper geometry because it isn’t the tubing parallelism that matters but rather the straight line arrangement that affects it.

Do high steer or something else that parallels the drag link straight-line and tie rod.
Thanks for the info on the steering. I drove it around my neighborhood today and DAM that thing is squirrely I didnt get above 30mph felt like back end would go left and front end would go right at times. Hopefully the tie rods ends cure that and a new drag link. I thought I was somewhat of a goodish :) mechanic but the Jeep is a whole different beast. Any reccomendations on the drag link?
 

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Thanks for the info on the steering. I drove it around my neighborhood today and DAM that thing is squirrely I didnt get above 30mph felt like back end would go left and front end would go right at times. Hopefully the tie rods ends cure that and a new drag link. I thought I was somewhat of a goodish :) mechanic but the Jeep is a whole different beast. Any reccomendations on the drag link?
Well since you have all that other work to do, a WJ knuckle swap would be a perfect choice for a good steering setup. :D As a bonus, you get better brakes out of the deal.
 
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