The Comprehensive BDS/FatBob's 2" Lift Thread
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@Bowhunt - the replacements were $102 +/- and I overpaid for rush shipping which won't be here on time. Frown. That's a better price than O'Reilly though, so I guess there's that.
@Metalhead - I can already fit mostly under there already. Well enough to change the oil even using a creeper The extra 2" lift will help.
@MYGrandcherokee - I provided DIRECT links to the places I purchased the springs from. Do your own clicking. Also, there is a 10% discount link from BDS in my original post. Go click it.
@Metalhead - I can already fit mostly under there already. Well enough to change the oil even using a creeper The extra 2" lift will help.
@MYGrandcherokee - I provided DIRECT links to the places I purchased the springs from. Do your own clicking. Also, there is a 10% discount link from BDS in my original post. Go click it.
Well, I did not expect this, but the RockAuto order came on Friday 01/21 instead of Monday 01/24. So, I will be installing all the new isolators, updating the thread with part numbers, and providing before/after pics/measurements. And also teaching the fiancee a little about cars! 
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2,510 Posts
Man I put 31x10.50x15 BF Goodrich KM2's on with the OME coils and I had to cut an *** load of my bumper away and I am still rubbing on something when going over snow bumps. 3" of lift and beefy 31's=plenty of trimming.
Original thread has too many pictures so I am putting pictures of the upper isolators. They were less collapsed than the front, but easy to replace.
Upper Front
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Upper Rear
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Assembly with new isolators
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Installing the spring isolators requires essentially doing the entire job again (other than completely removing the shocks). So I made my fiancee do it! She has never done ANYTHING to a car other than add oil and gas...never turned a wrench. I made her do everything and SHE did the work in 2 hours. I told her what to do and gave her the tools. That's right, a GIRL with ZERO EXPERIENCE did this. So, get out there and DO IT!
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Upper Front
Upper Rear
Assembly with new isolators
Installing the spring isolators requires essentially doing the entire job again (other than completely removing the shocks). So I made my fiancee do it! She has never done ANYTHING to a car other than add oil and gas...never turned a wrench. I made her do everything and SHE did the work in 2 hours. I told her what to do and gave her the tools. That's right, a GIRL with ZERO EXPERIENCE did this. So, get out there and DO IT!
Wow that one isolator looked like HELL! I am seriously hoping mine don't look like that. Thanks for the pics now I know what you look for.
I have one question - the bushings that come with the front shocks, does the "bulge" on them face away from eachother or toward eachother? I'm looking at mine now and I can't tell how they'd go. Same question for the "bulge" on the washers too.
BTW she's a keeper. If I told my wife to do that kind of work she'd tell me where I can shove my torque wrench!
I have one question - the bushings that come with the front shocks, does the "bulge" on them face away from eachother or toward eachother? I'm looking at mine now and I can't tell how they'd go. Same question for the "bulge" on the washers too.
BTW she's a keeper. If I told my wife to do that kind of work she'd tell me where I can shove my torque wrench!
The bushings should have a little "nipple" that will wind up facing each other when assembled. That little protrusion seats in the hole in the body.
Adding pics of the lower isolators (the really bad ones)
Lower Front
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Lower Rear
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Adding pics of the lower isolators (the really bad ones)
Lower Front
Lower Rear
Wow those look pretty bad. Hmm. I'm going to gamble and not order the parts until I know it is necessary. But those pics don't instill any confidence!
One more question - would the use of spring compressors make this portion of the job any easier? I'm just thinking down the road if I have to replace the isolators, would it save me any time? I already have them.
Thanks again for all this info and answers, I'll be referring to it often once all of my parts arrive!
One more question - would the use of spring compressors make this portion of the job any easier? I'm just thinking down the road if I have to replace the isolators, would it save me any time? I already have them.
Thanks again for all this info and answers, I'll be referring to it often once all of my parts arrive!
I posted the new dimensions in the original post. But, you are correct. The spring isolators ARE the source of normal WJ sag. Here is the new info that I added to the original (for all those who are subscribed to the thread).
Spring Isolators
This section is a new addition. My lift wasn't quite as high as I wanted and I had inconsistent lift height all around. After seeing what new isolators looked like, I was certain that mine had really collapsed. The results are perfect. The conclusion I can make: collapsed spring isolators are the real source of WJ sagging. Upper isolators are not as much the problem. My uppers were distorted but not totally junk. The lowers were really quite collapsed.
Here's the part numbers you need:
Upper Front: Mopar: 52088 257AB, Moog: K160040, Raybestos Professional: 5771-704
Lower Front: Mopar: 5208 8401, Moog: K160041, Raybestos Professional: 5771-705
Upper Rear: Mopar: 5208 8346, Moog: K160061, Raybestos Professional: 5771-716
Lower Rear: Mopar: 52088 402AB, Moog: K160042, Raybestos Professional: 5771-706
I went with the Raybestos Professional line over the Moog due to warranty, price, pictures, and reputation. The total cost for spring isolators was right around $100 for all 8 from RockAuto If you are looking to save some coin, just get the lower ones. They are the most important and were far more deformed. I REALLY recommend it so you don't have to do this job twice.
As a side benefit, the level of road noise is also greatly reduced and pothole impacts are much softer. Again, I really recommend replacing these, even if you are just getting a budget boost. You will see better results from any lift or even no lift at all - this will put you back to stock height.
Added to instructions:
7a)If you choose to replace the spring isolators, they just pull right off. They may be kind of crusted on there, so pry them up with a screwdriver or something and then clean off the mount. As mine is a West-Coast car, there is not much rust to speak of. For you East-Coasters, I'm sorry but you will probably have LOTS of rust here and you'll at least want to get out a wire brush and some Hammerite/Rustoleum to encapsulate and neutralize the rust.
Spring seat with spring isolators removed
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This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768.
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7b)Install spring isolators with tab going into hole on spring seat. The bottoms have a tab on both front and rear axles, but the tops just pop into place.
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This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768.
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Complete list of measurements/results:
Measurements
Front Fender-to-hub Before: 17-3/8"
Front Fender-to-hub After: 19-3/8" (net lift 2")
Rear Fender-to-hub Before: 18-1/4"
Rear Fender-to-hub After: 20-1/4" (net lift 2")
[edit]After New Spring Isolators Installed
Front Fender-to-hub After: 20" (net lift from isolators 5/8")
Rear Fender-to-hub After: 21" (net lift from isolators 3/4")
Spring Isolators
This section is a new addition. My lift wasn't quite as high as I wanted and I had inconsistent lift height all around. After seeing what new isolators looked like, I was certain that mine had really collapsed. The results are perfect. The conclusion I can make: collapsed spring isolators are the real source of WJ sagging. Upper isolators are not as much the problem. My uppers were distorted but not totally junk. The lowers were really quite collapsed.
Here's the part numbers you need:
Upper Front: Mopar: 52088 257AB, Moog: K160040, Raybestos Professional: 5771-704
Lower Front: Mopar: 5208 8401, Moog: K160041, Raybestos Professional: 5771-705
Upper Rear: Mopar: 5208 8346, Moog: K160061, Raybestos Professional: 5771-716
Lower Rear: Mopar: 52088 402AB, Moog: K160042, Raybestos Professional: 5771-706
I went with the Raybestos Professional line over the Moog due to warranty, price, pictures, and reputation. The total cost for spring isolators was right around $100 for all 8 from RockAuto If you are looking to save some coin, just get the lower ones. They are the most important and were far more deformed. I REALLY recommend it so you don't have to do this job twice.
As a side benefit, the level of road noise is also greatly reduced and pothole impacts are much softer. Again, I really recommend replacing these, even if you are just getting a budget boost. You will see better results from any lift or even no lift at all - this will put you back to stock height.
Added to instructions:
7a)If you choose to replace the spring isolators, they just pull right off. They may be kind of crusted on there, so pry them up with a screwdriver or something and then clean off the mount. As mine is a West-Coast car, there is not much rust to speak of. For you East-Coasters, I'm sorry but you will probably have LOTS of rust here and you'll at least want to get out a wire brush and some Hammerite/Rustoleum to encapsulate and neutralize the rust.
Spring seat with spring isolators removed
7b)Install spring isolators with tab going into hole on spring seat. The bottoms have a tab on both front and rear axles, but the tops just pop into place.
Complete list of measurements/results:
Measurements
Front Fender-to-hub Before: 17-3/8"
Front Fender-to-hub After: 19-3/8" (net lift 2")
Rear Fender-to-hub Before: 18-1/4"
Rear Fender-to-hub After: 20-1/4" (net lift 2")
[edit]After New Spring Isolators Installed
Front Fender-to-hub After: 20" (net lift from isolators 5/8")
Rear Fender-to-hub After: 21" (net lift from isolators 3/4")
X2. Thanks so much for this.
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1,950 Posts
This makes me want to put new isolators in as well. I would like to know how your Bilsteins hold up to some rough roads. I have already been through 2 sets of shocks now with these coils. And I can't seem to find a happy zone. We have some TERRIBLE roads here in the midwest ,so daily driving is like a washboard. I blew out another front shock the other day. The RC nitro's are like riding in a Radio Flyer being pulled by Ivan Stewart through Baja!
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337 Posts
I have a the 2" BB from Bob's, would there be anything I would need to take into consideration, outside of the grade of shocks if i wanted to add these springs on my BB kit, totalling about 4"?
@TheBoss - I haven't had any issues with the upper rear mounts thus far. I will update if anything comes up.
I've only had this together a week so yeah, the Bilsteins are holding up fine. However, I can attest to their durability in my other Jeep which has had Bilstein HDs for 3 years. I put it through horrible conditions as well as off-roading and they have never had a problem, even going to the limits of their travel. They also have a lifetime warranty, so really one set of Bilsteins should be the last you'll ever have to buy.
@radryan - Don't just stack springs on a budget boost. When you go to 4" lift, there is SO much more you need to do than just springs/spacers and shocks. Things like adjustable track bar, longer sway bar end links, adjustable/longer control arms, rear a-arm spacer, and possibly even a new driveshaft (depending on which shaft you have now). Piecing together a 4" lift like this is only going to give you nightmares and will be very prone to Death Wobble. In the end, a 4" lift kit from a reputable manufacturer will be much safer and probably much cheaper to boot. If you want to go to 4", sell the budget boost and buy a real 4" lift kit.
I've only had this together a week so yeah, the Bilsteins are holding up fine. However, I can attest to their durability in my other Jeep which has had Bilstein HDs for 3 years. I put it through horrible conditions as well as off-roading and they have never had a problem, even going to the limits of their travel. They also have a lifetime warranty, so really one set of Bilsteins should be the last you'll ever have to buy.
@radryan - Don't just stack springs on a budget boost. When you go to 4" lift, there is SO much more you need to do than just springs/spacers and shocks. Things like adjustable track bar, longer sway bar end links, adjustable/longer control arms, rear a-arm spacer, and possibly even a new driveshaft (depending on which shaft you have now). Piecing together a 4" lift like this is only going to give you nightmares and will be very prone to Death Wobble. In the end, a 4" lift kit from a reputable manufacturer will be much safer and probably much cheaper to boot. If you want to go to 4", sell the budget boost and buy a real 4" lift kit.
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