Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner
1 - 20 of 61 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All,

While putting my motor back together while doing the head gaskets, I noticed that the rubber connectors that go on the back of each cylinder head were cracked. I did research on what part to get, comparing auto-store parts to the dealer parts (which can be ordered online as well), and wanted to share what I found, part #'s, what you get, etc.

A good reference thread I used for into would be here - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310...-things-back-motor-head-vacuum-lines-1119789/

I hope I can expand upon some of the great info I found while searching.

Mainly - I hope you'll know what to order, and exactly what each part number contains.

The tubes/black cylindrical devices on the back of each cylinder head are the crankcase breathers. The "breather tube" assembly is part of the CVV (crankcase vent valve) system. It is basically tubes from each head, into a t-fitting, and then goes into the intake plenum.

From what I can tell, there are two version of this on the WJ 4.7 - I'm not sure if/when any changes were made, but here's what I know:

1.) Some versions have the plastic breathers screwed straight into the cylinder head. The replacements often only "push" in. The breathers in this case appear to be vertically mounted. (I'm speaking from images found during web searches, so if my info is wrong let me know!)

2.) My WJ, a 2004, had metal fittings that screwed into the heads. It then had two rubber elbows (one on each fitting) that went into the breathers. The breathers were oriented horizontally on the tube.

The problems I have heard of, or experienced, are as follows:

1.) The vertically mounted breathers break off or crack. - If you have this setup, you probably only need the breathers assuming the tube itself and any elbows are in good shape.

2.) The elbows dry rot/crack/break. - If you have the style with the elbows and they are cracked/broken, get the assembly only as it will come with the elbows as well as new breathers.

Here is my case, and what I found when searching for parts:

Upon disassembly, I found the rubber elbows on the breather tube ends were cracked:



I first hit up the local parts store, and found the Dorman "Help!" 46025 - but it was $12.99 each. Amazon is similar in price: http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-46025-...8&qid=1352948390&sr=8-2&keywords=dorman+46025

I then did some research and found for $21-$24 on various Mopar parts sites, I could get a breather tube assembly. But, the images were somewhat lacking, just drawings from diagrams, so I was slightly unsure what would be included

I ended up getting the breather tube assembly and two breathers - if you get the breather tube assembly, it will come assembled with the elbows as well as two breathers - so no need to order the extra two breathers

Breather Tube and Part # - 53031667AC - $21-24 msrp





Breathers and Part # - 53030850AB - $3.75 msrp



Again, you don't need the breathers seperate if you get the assembly. Since I wasn't sure what would be included, I ended up getting both. I found the tube had the elbows I needed, and two breathers, all for less than the Dorman elbows (which feel of lesser quality).

A good point to know - my local dealer quoted me $40 for the breather tube assembly. I thanked them on the phone and said I planned to order, as that was way to expensive. Before I could hang up, they proposed a new price of $24 - so, it pays to know and haggle the parts counter. :)

Here's some more images of the breather tube assembly:


Note - the breathers are installed just after the elbows on this assembly.


Old tube next to the new tube


Note: The elbows from the OEM part are somewhat rigid. The Dorman ones are very flexible - which raised the concern in my eyes of it kinking. The lower price of the OEM assembly vs 2 Dorman elbows also helped sway the decision!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Thanks. I know what you mean about the drawing. I couldn't tell the guy at the counter what I wanted. If I can get it for 25 bucks I'm seriously happy. I found mine all beat up on a rebuild. I zip tied them on to help seal them up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,296 Posts
That CCV system is separate from the PCV system? My 04 4.7 has the PCV. And I was under the impression that the CCV (fixed orifice vent valve) was just for the 4.0.

If its got both I'm impressed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yep! - the CVV comes off the back of each head to the air intake resonator and the PCV goes from the rear of the intake manifold to the oil fill tube that houses the PCV valve.

Im unsure if the breather elements have a maintenance interval though, but if back there its a good cheap maintenance item to put in new breather elements
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,296 Posts
Breadfan said:
Yep! - the CVV comes off the back of each head to the air intake resonator
I know exactly which tub your referring to. When I bought the 04 and did the spark plugs I noticed the tube just laying on the I take and the port on the resonator open.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,280 Posts
I wish I would've found this a few hours ago... I had to replace the tube using heater hose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,082 Posts
When I had to get my crankcase breathers, the guy at the counter (Jeep dealership) had to actually take mine back and physically compare it to others because Chrysler changed the part numbers or some nonsense. He originally came out with the one that didn't have the threads and eventually did find the correct one that does have threads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Very helpful thread. I just got my wj a few weeks ago, and the previous owner installed an ebay intake. I got a factory air box from a local wrecker to replace the crappy intake. I decided to also get the whole breather and tube assembly from the dealer (Part # 53031667AC), figured I might as well do it while I'm in there. When I took everything apart I noticed that the crossover tube on mine was literally broken in half with the drivers side half of it missing, and the passengers side half just hanging there. A hose from the breather port on the intake was stuffed into the drivers side crankcase breather hose (rubber hose stuffed into a bigger rubber hose), and duck taped together. What a dumb mother *ucker would do something like this? Anyway, I'm glad I picked up this assembly and appreciate the thread!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I just replaced my spark plugs in my '02 JGC Overland but while doing it I snapped my breather tube in half. I have two questions: 1) Is this okay to drive on for a few days while I wait to get the replacement? and 2) how hard is it to replace?

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,280 Posts
Damn Plastic T broke installing K&N High Flow Intake. Too Cold outside I guess... Looking for it at the dealers now.
I went to the parts store and made my own now I don't have to worry about the plastic hoses breaking when I go to pull the resonator box off
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Ive been throwing the idea around in my head about just putting some breathers on the crankcase and plugging the intake. Ive been running without the driver side connected for a while, and cant tell a difference. Has anyone done this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,280 Posts
Ive been throwing the idea around in my head about just putting some breathers on the crankcase and plugging the intake. Ive been running without the driver side connected for a while, and cant tell a difference. Has anyone done this?
I wouldn't do it but it's just my opinion
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
I wouldn't do it but it's just my opinion
I mean, the way I see it, its better than not running anything, right? Now dont get me wrong, I can go through the dealer or mopar online and get the little plastic part, but Im just trying to think outside the box a little. Like I said, Ive been running without one for like 6 months now, and havnt seemed to hurt anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,280 Posts
I mean, the way I see it, its better than not running anything, right? Now dont get me wrong, I can go through the dealer or mopar online and get the little plastic part, but Im just trying to think outside the box a little. Like I said, Ive been running without one for like 6 months now, and havnt seemed to hurt anything.
It doesn't get the suction like when it's hooked to the resonator box and can cause issues. I've seen oil get blown through the filters you are talking about getting.. Not just a little either.. But to each their own.. Honestly you could do like I did and make your own out of heater hose
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
It doesn't get the suction like when it's hooked to the resonator box and can cause issues. I've seen oil get blown through the filters you are talking about getting.. Not just a little either.. But to each their own.. Honestly you could do like I did and make your own out of heater hose
Ok I gotcha. Thats a much more definitive answer to what Ive looked for.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,918 Posts
I mean, the way I see it, its better than not running anything, right? Now dont get me wrong, I can go through the dealer or mopar online and get the little plastic part, but Im just trying to think outside the box a little. Like I said, Ive been running without one for like 6 months now, and havnt seemed to hurt anything.
The bigger question, is why would you spend $15-$20 rigging something up that may or may not work, when you can buy the factory replacement part for only $25?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,280 Posts
I spent all of 5 dollars for my ** rigged set up
Honestly would've bought the right thing at the time but I couldn't find part numbers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
The bigger question, is why would you spend $15-$20 rigging something up that may or may not work, when you can buy the factory replacement part for only $25?
If there were a metal replacement, which I still might look into, I wouldnt hesitate. But plastic is, well, plastic. And I was lucky none of the pieces fell in when the last one broke.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,280 Posts
The bigger question, is why would you spend $15-$20 rigging something up that may or may not work, when you can buy the factory replacement part for only $25?
Also not to be rude but with common sense you could make something that does the job equal to or better then that plastic you paid 25 bucks for.
 
1 - 20 of 61 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top