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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
How is it working out for you? Are the relays working?
Been there for a while and never had a problem. I only use Bosch relays, no china junk ones. I have a feeling they will out last the engine in the jeep. :laugh:
 

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FYI to anyone in the future, yes I just plugged in the power in to my aux fuse box and fused it with a 15 amp fuse. If I need a larger (like 20amp) I hope someone will let me know, or I might find out when I keep blowing the fuse and get a larger. Thanks everyone
 

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IDgara it depends on what you are running off the switch. What ever you have hooked up should come with the current rating. Use it to determine the fuse size. Make sure your wires are the correct guage for the current draw.
 

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I thought because it comes thru the relay, it uses less power than the stuff (lights) I have hooked up to it? Therefore it will draw much less current than the lights since it only will need to power the small LED in the switch and not the whole offroad light chain as well. The lights didnt come with any information such as power/current draws for the small internal LEDs so maybe its much smaller than 15 and I need a smaller fuse. Logic tells me not that I would need a larger one, but actually a smaller one since its a small LED in the switch.
 

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I thought because it comes thru the relay, it uses less power than the stuff (lights) I have hooked up to it? Therefore it will draw much less current than the lights since it only will need to power the small LED in the switch and not the whole offroad light chain as well. The lights didnt come with any information such as power/current draws for the small internal LEDs so maybe its much smaller than 15 and I need a smaller fuse. Logic tells me not that I would need a larger one, but actually a smaller one since its a small LED in the switch.
This is true. You shouldn't have any issues running relays! The only power draw will be from the LED lights, as idgara007 mentioned. The relays are controlled VIA voltage (magnets and stuff, y0). So they use nearly no amperage. I think a 10amp would be fine for a switch panel that controls relays.

But the relays are a different story, of course. :2thumbsup:
 

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I noticed with the blue ones in this same location (where the stock defrost would be) I have no issues at night seeing the print because there is the little light above that area. BUT,,,,, I mounted three more below them and you can't see the print at night without a light shining on them.. I'll be putting a small LED above those.

Don't let me drive your Jeep I might get confused :rofl:

 

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If it is just control voltage switching the relay then you are fine with the lower current fuse. Contrary to what people think the fuse current rating isn't setup for the current rating of the device you are controlling, it is setup to protect wiring so the wiring determines the current rating for a fuse in a circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Just to update the original project. I have since moved the switches to a center console that I grabbed out of retired police car. The console is made by Troy Products. I got a face plate to fit my CB and a face plate to mount the switches. I remade the labels using a Laser printer as the labels I made with the inkjet bled over time.

Here are a few pics of the final install.



 

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If it is just control voltage switching the relay then you are fine with the lower current fuse. Contrary to what people think the fuse current rating isn't setup for the current rating of the device you are controlling, it is setup to protect wiring so the wiring determines the current rating for a fuse in a circuit.
true true, but along with that I need to choose wiring to hook up these switches as well. Im not sure if the switches say how much power is required for the LEDs in them. They say a max of 20amps but I know it takes much less just to power the LED. technically if I ran 5 in parallel they would all see the 12volts but the current would increase 5 fold, so I would need larger wire to accommodate this correct?

I dont really want to run 10ga wire just for switches because it is very thick and stiff. If I only ran 18 ga there is a risk of possibly overloading the max current for that wire.

FYI: i would be running switches for relays to lights and compressor system and the only direct power would be to the CB which only needs 2amps anyways. so nothing of a major power draw.

another point of curiosity looking at the OPs pics, how were you able to crimp in both wires to one terminal? it looks very clean but I cant seem to figure how to do them like that. speaking of which, what terminal (and source if any) did you use in the connector housing you linked?
 

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true true, but along with that I need to choose wiring to hook up these switches as well. Im not sure if the switches say how much power is required for the LEDs in them. They say a max of 20amps but I know it takes much less just to power the LED. technically if I ran 5 in parallel they would all see the 12volts but the current would increase 5 fold, so I would need larger wire to accommodate this correct?

I dont really want to run 10ga wire just for switches because it is very thick and stiff. If I only ran 18 ga there is a risk of possibly overloading the max current for that wire.

FYI: i would be running switches for relays to lights and compressor system and the only direct power would be to the CB which only needs 2amps anyways. so nothing of a major power draw.

another point of curiosity looking at the OPs pics, how were you able to crimp in both wires to one terminal? it looks very clean but I cant seem to figure how to do them like that. speaking of which, what terminal (and source if any) did you use in the connector housing you linked?
When I ran my switches, I only used 12 gauge from the battery to power them (now its the remote wire from the stereo 20 gauge wire I think) and I used cat5 to run it to the relays. It only takes milliamps to activate a relay so put the good wire where it counts.
 
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