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Mopar Nut
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586 Posts
Sounds like you need stiffer springs to me. Or if you like the ride solo sans gear, you need an adjustable spring rate via adjustable coil overs or some load assist bags to adjust when you are loaded down. That is, of course, assuming all your current components are in good repair. I run AirLift bags, but I also have a stock ride height. I can run 2000Lbs of firewood and gear in the back with the bags at 30psi. While I do see some sag, on my 120mi ride to my land up north I don't touch the bump stops once. But you also have to keep in mind this is not what load assist bags are for - they are to control sag, sway, and bounce - they make no claims of increasing capacity. My application is TOTALLY wrong - my stock suspension is still only rated for the OEM 1000Lbs....
 

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Mopar Nut
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586 Posts
I'll add that 1000Lbs factory rated capacity INCLUDES you and your passengers. 5 big guys in there and your probably at capacity. Add in gear, winch bumpers, spare parts/tools/recovery/fuel, and you are already over capacity.....
 

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Mopar Nut
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586 Posts
Do you have any recommendations?
Not on springs. I'm on my 4 or 5th WJ, all stock height. I do see some trails and plenty of mud/snow, but have never had the need or desire to lift. So I can't offer a direct product recommendation, perhaps someone else lifted will eventually chime in here.

As far as bags go, AirLift has no off the the shelfs kits for lifted trucks, but they do have a number you can call and they may have a kit designed for another vehicle that might fit your aftermarket springs. There's also load leveling shocks (Monroe has a set) that come with a smaller coil spring over them to be used in conjunction with the existing coil spring, but again they are designed for factory ride height. You'd have to spec out your own or talk to the manufacturer. Finally a company called Michigan Truck Spring that makes supplemental "helper springs" and heavy duty replacement springs, but yet again you'd have to talk to them.

That's about all I can offer. Wait for a better bite here, or go fetch! ;)
 

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Mopar Nut
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586 Posts
They need 5 psi minimum. I thought they could be deflated entirely. So that is going to change your current ride height.
I have those same bags, and leave 5psi in them as recommended. It's so they don't slide up and down in the spring causing excessive wear. I cannot tell the difference in ride quality until they have over 10psi in them. Ride height at 5psi is negligible.

For my install I put the Shrader behind the filler door, and added a tee to install a gauge in the window visible at the filler door.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Rim Automotive lighting Headgear
Speedometer Gauge Motor vehicle Tachometer Measuring instrument
 

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Mopar Nut
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586 Posts
What were your reasons for not having an onboard pump please Mr B?
Also, why didn't you fit an electric valve
so you could reduce airbag pressure while you drive please?
Cost, and really no need for either in my case. I added the bags for load assist. Load gear, add air. Unload, dump the air. I do always carry a 12v pump, but that is more for a roadside flat tire repair. I can't say I've ever had to refill or add air to the bags on the road - there is just no need, since the load doesn't change while I am enroute. I also generally have the bags empty (5psi) or full (30psi) - never really played around in the middle. The gauge I added is just to prevent overfilling, and to monitor for leaks.
 
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Mopar Nut
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586 Posts
Airbags (air springs) need a different shock valving than a regular coil spring.
Just to clarify - what I am referring to as an "air bag" in this thread are the AirLift helper springs that are inserted inside the existing coil, not replacements for the coil.

Furthermore, I would agree with a higher spring rate if this is a regular issue for the OP. In my case, towing and hauling gear up north 6-8x a year isn't enough for me to change my ride quality overall. The load assist bags serve my purpose just fine....
 
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Mopar Nut
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How much do you ballast up your WJ (in pounds)? If you know?
I can't state exactly, as I never actually weighed it. But I am fairly good at estimating. I'm also pretty careful about keeping my loads balanced. When I go up north, I generally carry 1000Lbs of gear, which nearly completely compressed the rear springs. She would wander on the freeway, and a good "whoop" would hit the bump stops. When I towed my gear trailer or boat, all the gear is in the trailer/boat. Trailer has a tongue weight of 350, boat 500. Both sunk the springs a bit, but not enough to hit the bump stops. None the less the boat would give the tail a bit of waggle and sway (no load distributing hitch on either the boat or trailer).

With 30psi in the bags, I have carried 2000Lbs of gear and firewood in the cargo hold. While the springs still sagged, I never hit the bump stops on my 120mi ride up north. With just the 1000Lbs of gear, there is about a 1.5" of sag (Keep in mind the full 30psi with no load will raises my rear .75", so we are really only sagging by .75" from factory). With the boat, there is no noticeable sag, and minimal sway from the tail. Your barely even notice she is back there on the freeway.

I think my 2000Lbs estimate is pretty accurate, as I also once carried 32 bags of 60Lbs mulch in the cargo hold and roof rack up north which comes to 1920Lbs. Once again, keep in mind this is NOT what these bags are deigned for - I am abusing the bags and the Jeep. AirLift makes no claims of increasing load capacity, and I am clearly overloading my Jeep....

I usually only haul all this gear and tow in the summer. Assuming roads are dry, I generally run my tires pretty firm in the summer, up to 44psi. I think the factory spec is 29psi. 44psi gains me about 0.5mpg. I have not looked at tire psi or sidewall bulge when I carry all this stuff, probably a good thing for me to check next time.
 
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Mopar Nut
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Do you blow your tyres up to 30psi before you load up please Mr B?
I usually only haul all this gear and tow in the summer. Assuming roads are dry, I generally run my tires pretty firm in the summer, up to 44psi. I think the factory spec is 29psi. 44psi gains me about 0.5mpg. I have not looked at tire psi or sidewall bulge when I carry all this stuff, probably a good thing for me to check next time.
 

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Mopar Nut
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Factory Spec in my Operating Information booklet for 235/65HR17 tyres is 33psi Mr B.
It says the same on the Driver's B-post.
Factory "recommend" spec. I have my own spec. Soft in winter, hard in summer. Been running like that for 30+ years. Especially with chunky tread block truck tires. Slight MPG improvement in summer, a little more compliant in cold weather. I also run 245/70-16.
 
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