I also see rock krawler offers their triple rate springs separately so that might open the door to a frankenlift
Suspension overhaul
Looking for some thoughts on a suspension overhaul. Havent been here in quite a while but coming back now that things are settling down. I have failed to maintain things well the last 5 years, but with some recent issues I need to lower it. The current suspension is noisy, has terrible NVH (did from install though), and is super bouncy - probably due to shocks needing a rebuild. I am
lowering it because I really struggle to get in/out and likely will never see the Rubicon or MOAB.
The current is a 4” rockjock johnny joint setup with front antirock and 33” tires on the stock rims and fox 2.0 adjustable with reservoir. I want to remove and replace all of it. Might stick with 33‘s but likely will go back down to 31’s if I cant find a tall and skinny.
I want to reduce height, reduce NVH. I have not ever taken the TJ on any true 4x4 trail. My current resident area only offers nasty FS roads, so no real off roading even if I wanted. most driving is 50% highway, 50% nasty dirt roads.
So for a replacement “kit” I am currently considering OME or quadrated in house with fox shocks. The quadratec is a 2.5” lift and they state the spring rate is within 10% of factory. OME is a 2” lift with different rates depending on loadout. I am told the ‘medium’ spring is for mostly factory weight with hardtop and winch, and the ‘heavy’ option is for those with over 100 #‘s of extra weight. Seems to me most would be in the latter category.
For control arms and other components I am considering a mix of crown automotive and rough country. Crown usually makes stock replacements but I found recently they make adjustable control arms to dial in geometry. The reason I am considering these components is because they all use standard clevite rubber bonded bishings which is ‘factory’ and the best for reduced NVH. Ride quality and noise are my primary concerns. I recently put the AEV dualsport on my JT Gladiator specifically to keep stock style control arms and steersmarts track bars since they use stock clevite bushings and the ride is amazing. If anything, NVH is even lower than when it has the factory suspension. I plan on removing the antirock and replacing with teraflex dual stage version of antirock for better highway stability.
Now for use case, since that matters a lot, it will be mostly dirt roads and highways. I do plan for a loaded back end for camping for 2-1 nights. So your typical battery, smallest fridge I can find, recovery gear and winch, food/water, tuffy security enclosure, hardtop (removed in summer), air compressor. I would imagine outfitted and with just myself it will be close to GVW Since that is pretty low already.
So curious to hear what everyone might suggest. I have zero experience with OME springs or shocks, and zero experience with quadratec springs. I do know about what to expect with new fox 2.0 non reservoir shocks if I go that route though.
any of thes options good or is there another one to consider?
lowering it because I really struggle to get in/out and likely will never see the Rubicon or MOAB.
The current is a 4” rockjock johnny joint setup with front antirock and 33” tires on the stock rims and fox 2.0 adjustable with reservoir. I want to remove and replace all of it. Might stick with 33‘s but likely will go back down to 31’s if I cant find a tall and skinny.
I want to reduce height, reduce NVH. I have not ever taken the TJ on any true 4x4 trail. My current resident area only offers nasty FS roads, so no real off roading even if I wanted. most driving is 50% highway, 50% nasty dirt roads.
So for a replacement “kit” I am currently considering OME or quadrated in house with fox shocks. The quadratec is a 2.5” lift and they state the spring rate is within 10% of factory. OME is a 2” lift with different rates depending on loadout. I am told the ‘medium’ spring is for mostly factory weight with hardtop and winch, and the ‘heavy’ option is for those with over 100 #‘s of extra weight. Seems to me most would be in the latter category.
For control arms and other components I am considering a mix of crown automotive and rough country. Crown usually makes stock replacements but I found recently they make adjustable control arms to dial in geometry. The reason I am considering these components is because they all use standard clevite rubber bonded bishings which is ‘factory’ and the best for reduced NVH. Ride quality and noise are my primary concerns. I recently put the AEV dualsport on my JT Gladiator specifically to keep stock style control arms and steersmarts track bars since they use stock clevite bushings and the ride is amazing. If anything, NVH is even lower than when it has the factory suspension. I plan on removing the antirock and replacing with teraflex dual stage version of antirock for better highway stability.
Now for use case, since that matters a lot, it will be mostly dirt roads and highways. I do plan for a loaded back end for camping for 2-1 nights. So your typical battery, smallest fridge I can find, recovery gear and winch, food/water, tuffy security enclosure, hardtop (removed in summer), air compressor. I would imagine outfitted and with just myself it will be close to GVW Since that is pretty low already.
So curious to hear what everyone might suggest. I have zero experience with OME springs or shocks, and zero experience with quadratec springs. I do know about what to expect with new fox 2.0 non reservoir shocks if I go that route though.
any of thes options good or is there another one to consider?
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
you have one of the better setups out there. if you want it lower, i'd go with rock jock 3" coils. I'm wondering if anything is loose and just needs to be tightened up. a properly installed rockjock/currie setup should not increase NVH through the johnny joints.
just out of curiosity, what PSI are you running in your 33's?
just out of curiosity, what PSI are you running in your 33's?
I dont see how it would not increase NVH. Anything stiffer than a rubber clevite bushing is going to transmit vibrations more. It is possible that something is loose, but I think more likely they are in need of a rebuild - it is very bouncy and noisy lately. The roads here also get a heavy amount of deicer in the winter so its super hard on stuff. In the last 2 years I went from showroom floor level zero rust, to surface rust all over the place. I am sure that is contributing as well. But when the lift was new it was definitely harsher than stock. I might be able to find someone to do a full rebuild, but also looking to reduce maintenance needsyou have one of the better setups out there. if you want it lower, i'd go with rock jock 3" coils. I'm wondering if anything is loose and just needs to be tightened up. a properly installed rockjock/currie setup should not increase NVH through the johnny joints.
just out of curiosity, what PSI are you running in your 33's?
I am at 32 psi currently just because I was doing some highway driving. Usually I have them at 25’ish. But the tires on it now have left me very dissatisfied. I previously had 31” cooper discover stt pro and they were awesome and rode a lot softer and quieter than the current 33x10.5 KO2’s, so I will be moving to a different tire before next winter.
I suppose I could find a 2” coil somewhere? Really dont want to go over 2.5” fully loaded. I think OME springs can be purchased standalone. And synergy. This will also require changing out the shocks, I think they would be too long
for what its worth, I have been running savvy arms for almost a decade and stopped trying to add grease or do any other maint years ago as they were always full. the first 5 years I had them on I was daily driving in chicago and dealt with loads of salt. when i did take a couple of the JJ's apart, they still looked brand new. its rare for a Johnny joint to require a rebuild, thats one of their biggest selling points vs the knock offs.
if the control arm bolts are loose, it will add NVH as the joint can move around. if they are tight it is nearly a non issue as there is no movement and any additional NVH will be mostly unnoticeable due to your shocks and tires contributing to the majority of ride quality. when I originally installed mine, i had to bend the ears of a couple control arm mounts to get the joints properly seated and reduce all unwanted movement.
for most 33's, you'll want to be between 26-28 all the time, depending load rating and how much weight is in the jeep.
for 2" coils, BDS makes highly rated coils as well
if the control arm bolts are loose, it will add NVH as the joint can move around. if they are tight it is nearly a non issue as there is no movement and any additional NVH will be mostly unnoticeable due to your shocks and tires contributing to the majority of ride quality. when I originally installed mine, i had to bend the ears of a couple control arm mounts to get the joints properly seated and reduce all unwanted movement.
for most 33's, you'll want to be between 26-28 all the time, depending load rating and how much weight is in the jeep.
for 2" coils, BDS makes highly rated coils as well
Totally forgot about BDS. Ill check them out
Anyone have opinions on OME springs?
OME makes good products. Springs are for ride height. Gets the ones that give you the height you want. My Zone Offroad springs haven't sagged at all in 7 years.Anyone have opinions on OME springs?
I somewhat recall reading about your install of those. Yeah I chatted with ARB today and they would recommend the HD springs with just a winch and some camping gear in the back. Kinda surprise. but I did read a few places that their springs are kinda light? So maybe the HD's would be a good way to go. Curry makes 3" springs, but I'm trying to drop 2". I seem to remember a heck of a lot more options 5 years ago.OME makes good products. Springs are for ride height. Gets the ones that give you the height you want. My Zone Offroad springs haven't sagged at all in 7 years.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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