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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Steinjäger recently sent me a pair of TJ Front swaybar disconnects for my 03. They asked me to do an honest review.
My prior experience with swaybar links is a troubling one. A stock link broke the first week I bought my Jeep, and then the other broke a year later on a highway exit ramp. I replaced them with TeraFlex quick discos. They were the biggest pain to install, the directions make zero grammatical sense, they were impossible to disconnect without a mallet, and they became so lose that my front end became scary on tight turns. I ended up tightening/reinstalling them a couple months ago after the first install in July.
Here are the Steinjäger swaybar links all packaged up:

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The box included these ^ plus a sticker. When I saw these I got quite excited.

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Here is a side-by-side comparison of the Steinjäger vs Teraflex disconnects. First thing to notice is how beefy the Steinjägers are. The Steinjägers are also adjustable and all-metal; a nice feature considering how the Teraflex plastic got a bit tore up (I mean, it's a Jeep, c'mon).

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Another nice feature was the locknuts (the Teraflex ones were regular nuts and one of them fell off).





Taking the Teraflex discos off was the hardest part. The pin has only two flat parts to grab onto while you wrench the nut. With the Steinjäger discos, the entire pin assembly (pin, spacers, and cotter pin) comes off when you choose to disconnect.
More pictures:




The steinjager joints felt much smoother as I twisted them. I installed the top to the sway bar and lined everything up. It was going very smooth, but looking back I should've seen it coming…
All good here:
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But when I went to add the cotter pin, I realized the spacer was in the way of the hole!
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There was no chance at getting the pin in that hole. This hole was actually the closer of the two to matching up. I tried everything in the book to get these to fit. This happened because either someone forgot to calculate the width of the connection to the axles, welded the washer onto the pin jagged (see pic below) or forgot about tolerances.

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I'm still not sure if the washer is straight or not, or maybe the actual welds pushed it too far out. So out frustration and a need to drive, I got grinding on a solution.
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After ten minutes on the grinding wheel, the four spacers fit on the pins with just enough room to accept the cotter pin.

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Then I went driving. The links have been on my TJ for the last two weeks. I felt a worthwhile difference in on-road behavior, especially in wide turns and braking. Believe it or not, my brakes feel stronger now. I drove on some crappy gravel roads and felt more control while quickly (relatively) dodging potholes. I've heard zero squeaks or anything of that nature. Now that they're installed, I have nothing bad to say about them. One could point to the spacers and pin as things which might get lost while disconnecting. Personally, I like this system better than the others. If you're disconnecting, it takes an extra ten seconds to put the pieces in your glovebox. I don't, however, know what to do with the links which don't have a place to stay while disconnected (apparently you have to buy a separate part).
Improving these things is simple. Steinjäger should increase their tolerance on each part, resulting in more play for things like metal expansion, equipment accuracy, etc. If this is a worrisome proposition because of the resulting "play" in the system, Steinjäger should think about a new pin system with multiple holes depending on which fits each customer's jeep best (like a belt). Also, while these are super easy to install, instructions are mandatory on anything over $50.
I would definitely recommend these if you have access to a grinding wheel in case things get hairy. If Steinjäger improves their design (which they should), I wouldn't recommend another brand of swaybar links. The price is more than fair for the quality of the product.
 

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I also had a problem with one side being a lot tighter, I didn't know if it was just me. I had to push up on the bar to make sure the pin was perfectly horizontal and then it slid right in. It being such a tight fit was good and bad. Good:theirs no play. Bad:hard as all heck to get on
 

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I had no problems getting the small pin in but I found it near impossible to get the hitch pin through the stock sway bar bracket. I ended up having to beat on both sides with a hammer to get the hitch pin through, since I don't have a drill handy. I think it'll slide easier now though after knocking whatever burr or lip was holding it.
 

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Although I will add mine were packaged not nearly as nicely as yours. Wasn't a fan of seeing that when I opened them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I also had a problem with one side being a lot tighter, I didn't know if it was just me. I had to push up on the bar to make sure the pin was perfectly horizontal and then it slid right in. It being such a tight fit was good and bad. Good:theirs no play. Bad:hard as all heck to get on
I tried weaseling the pin in but there was just no chance. Plus I figured I'm gonna be disconnecting and connecting them so I'd rather it all fit well without tools and pulling and so on. Is the washer welded on your pin around the same length down as mine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Although I will add mine were packaged not nearly as nicely as yours. Wasn't a fan of seeing that when I opened them.
Surprised! Mine were packaged with so much brown tape that I ended up cutting myself! I hate card board boxes that use tabs. Oh well. How much of difference have you noticed with driving behavior?
 

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TheBestWes said:
I tried weaseling the pin in but there was just no chance. Plus I figured I'm gonna be disconnecting and connecting them so I'd rather it all fit well without tools and pulling and so on. Is the washer welded on your pin around the same length down as mine?
they look to be so
 

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Surprised! Mine were packaged with so much brown tape that I ended up cutting myself! I hate card board boxes that use tabs. Oh well. How much of difference have you noticed with driving behavior?
None. They're just links, so I didn't expect any difference. These should just be a hell of a lot easier to disconnect than my last rigged ones, since a hammer isn't needed to beat them off of the bullet (although these don't use the bullet thing).
 

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None. They're just links, so I didn't expect any difference. These should just be a hell of a lot easier to disconnect than my last rigged ones, since a hammer isn't needed to beat them off of the bullet (although these don't use the bullet thing).
You will at some point wish they did.
 

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You will at some point wish they did.
And why's that? I sort of have a hunch but I'd like to hear it.

I am sure the bullet design is a great design, but my old setup was a bastardized deal made from drilled Fabtech fixed lowers mounted on what I think are bullets from an old RE kit with hitchpins securing them. Had to beat them to flex the upper fixed bushing enough to knock the drilled lower bushing off the bullet.
 

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And why's that? I sort of have a hunch but I'd like to hear it.

I am sure the bullet design is a great design, but my old setup was a bastardized deal made from drilled Fabtech fixed lowers mounted on what I think are bullets from an old RE kit with hitchpins securing them. Had to beat them to flex the upper fixed bushing enough to knock the drilled lower bushing off the bullet.
You're a smart guy, you are familiar with mechanical connections. What could possibly go wrong with something that can wobble back and forth in a hole?

Or, let's go at it from a different angle. How about I tell you that the links for an A/R will be just fine if you shove them through the hole in the mount, drill them for a cotter pin and send you on your way. Are you at any point in time gonna buy that as being good advice?
 

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You're a smart guy, you are familiar with mechanical connections. What could possibly go wrong with something that can wobble back and forth in a hole?

Or, let's go at it from a different angle. How about I tell you that the links for an A/R will be just fine if you shove them through the hole in the mount, drill them for a cotter pin and send you on your way. Are you at any point in time gonna buy that as being good advice?
That was pretty much my hunch. I'm interested to see as well. There is a flat washer welded to the pin and the cotter pin snugs it up pretty well on mine. Will it be enough to keep the pin from shifting and eventually wallow out the mount? I'm not sure. Only time will tell. But it really won't be an issue as this axle will be out in the next year or two and the new 44 will be run with an AR eventually. If the mounts show wear, I'll just get the AR when I install the 44.
 

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cool looking but poorly engineered. The bottom pin is going to move around...
 

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Yep.....the axle link mount hole will be wallowed out eventually. It's like you guys had a couple good ideas and then totally spaced on the most obvious component. I question the amount of real-world testing that went into these prior to production.
 

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That's a cool design, I like the quickness of the sprint but I don't know how strong that stud or the mechanism to gold it would be
 

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Yep.....the axle link mount hole will be wallowed out eventually. It's like you guys had a couple good ideas and then totally spaced on the most obvious component. I question the amount of real-world testing that went into these prior to production.
We send some of these new products out to active forum Jeep guys in order to get our products exposed to as many ideas, markets and environments as possible. Involving the end user is an integral part of our development process. We differ from many other manufacturers in this approach: we create a product, and then provide it free to selected end users for reviews and comments. At this stage, and using this approach, ALL feedback, reviews and comments have a direct influence on the changes we'll make to this product. Keep those comments coming!
 

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That's a cool design, I like the quickness of the sprint but I don't know how strong that stud or the mechanism to gold it would be
Quick update....I can state with confidence that you will bend the 1/2" rod before doing any damage to the mounting stud or mechanism.
Our last time out only 1 side got disconnected :brickwalland well, we proved out something that we didn't intend to prove out.
 
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