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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,

I live in Germany and own a 2016 Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD, but as I have not found a better community for European owners yet, I have no choice but to post my problem here.

So, recently my Jeep's steering wheel started to slightly turn to the right. It is not that strong, but anyways I notice it and I constantly need to correct the steering wheel, especially when driving on a highway (but happens at lower speeds as well). I did the wheel alignment today here in Germany and this is the report (since it is in German, I translated keywords so I hope you can understand it). Could you please comment on how it looks to you and are there any suggestions on what else to try? The problem is not fixed yet, basically more or less the same as it was before. There is no turning right while braking or anything like that, just when I'm driving normally.

And also one more thing (might be related, idk), I THINK the steering wheel is a bit harder than it should be. I said "I think" because it might just be my personal feeling as I never drove another WK2, but it is harder than it was on my previous GC (2008 WK Diesel). Does it sound related to you?

Thank you in advance
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So they were unable to get the front caster and camber into spec? Did they provide explanation? They should have inspected all suspension components and provided a report.
This could definitely affect your steering feel and centering.
Pulling to the side can also be caused by a bad wheel bearing or dragging brakes.
Id find a new mechanic if you went in there for an issue and they provided no solutions.
Theres not much well be able to do but speculate. How handy are you, do you have a workspace, floor jack?
brakes, hubs, ball joints, control arm bushings would be your things to look at
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well they said that both axles were misaligned and that it should be fixed after they did the alignment. And it really looked like that when I picked up the car and started driving. But soon after that, when I was driving on the highway, I noticed pulling to the right side again and then looked into the report and these numbers.
 

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The numbers and test drive clearly indicate it wasnt fixed. Caster numbers were worse after alignment and camber only slightly better. Both still out of spec.
Your toe looks good so its prob not your tie rods.
Take it back to the shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yep, they obviously did not fix it. I was wondering if these deviations could still cause that (pulling + a bit hard steering wheel) and wanted to hear more opinions on that. And if yes I'm definitely going back to the shop to see if there is a way to do something with it. But I'm already disappointed in them because they handed over the Jeep claiming it's fixed even though it is not.
 

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Absolutely those can cause pulling and hard steering. Im disappointed in them too, any basic shop will inspect all components before beginning the alignment. You simply cannot align a vehicle with worn components.
 

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Didn't I read somewhere that some WK2s need another adjustment bracket installed, or something like that, in order to have enough adjustment range to bring alignment into spec.
 

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Try rotating your front tires from side to side. Move the left tire to the right and the right tire to the left. Drive it again and see if there is a change such as it drives straight or now drives to the left. If it changes, it is a tire problem. It is very common for tires to cause this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I went back to the shop today and basically nothing happened. They are claiming that the wheels are aligned and said that it is not possible to adjust caster and camber - only toe is adjustable and they fixed it on both axles. At the end they rotated tires but it has not fixed anything. Still pulls to the right same as it did before.

And yes, they also measured clearence on both sides because that was a possible cause per their theory but it was perfectly the same height on both sides
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yep, they did not see any obvious reason why would it behave like this. Ball joints, tie rod ends, brakes all good. At the end he said it might be the lane assistance software (but as far as I know my Jeep is not equiped with lane assistance system). I am not convinced that there is no way to adjust caster and camber angles, and will try another shop. I’ll try to get an appointment at Jeep dealership - it’s very hard to get one here in Germany, waiting times are usually 2 weeks or more. And it is really annoying to drive like this
 

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Sounds like the shop has no clue or does not have access to proper service information or just wants to blow you off..

You can set Caster, Camber, and Toe on the front. You can set Camber and Toe on the rear.

CASTER AND CAMBER ADJUSTMENT - FRONT

Camber and caster angle adjustments involve changing the position of the lower control arm with the slots in the frame brackets to move the lower control arm inwards or outwards for proper adjustment. This can be achieved by using a long pry bar with a curved tip and inserting the pry bar into the lower control arm frame brackets and prying inwards or outwards.

Moving the rear position of the lower control arm at the frame in or out, will change the caster angle significantly and camber angle only slightly. To maintain the camber angle while adjusting caster, move the rear of the lower control arm in or out. Then move the front of the lower control arm slightly in the opposite direction.

Move both the front and rear of the lower control arm together in or out. This will change the camber angle significantly and caster angle slightly.

After adjustment is made tighten the lower control arm REAR PIVOT VERTICAL BOLTS (1) to 220 N·m (162 ft. lbs.), the REAR PIVOT HORIZONTAL BOLTS (2) to 90 N·m (66 ft. lbs.), and the FRONT PIVOT BOLTS (4) to 120 N·m (89 ft. lbs.).

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CAMBER ADJUSTMENT - REAR
  1. Adjust the wheel camber position by loosening the camber link to cradle cam bolt/nut (1) just enough to rotate the cam bolt. Turning the cam bolt moves the camber link (2) in or out.
  2. Tighten the camber link to cradle cam bolt/nut (1) to 93 NM (68 ft. lbs.).
  3. Verify the specifications.
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I've read that sometimes there is not enough adjustment, but there is a kit for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I guessed so… thank you. I picked a US-cars service hoping that they could know it better, but seems like I will need another try. Definitely not something I can do by myself.

Btw could someone compare steering wheels on WK and WK2? Does WK feel softer/lighter to anyone else?
 

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Some of the Mercedes SUVs use the same suspension, the WK2 and one of them is built off the same platform.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I just want to give an update to the topic. Today I finally had an appointment at Jeep dealership regarding the same issue and they also have checked the wheel alignment (results are attached) and they said wheel alignment is ok. What they additionaly did is re-centering the steering wheel (not sure if that is the right translation though), but basically they said that the steering wheel was turned few degrees to the left in default position. I did not have a chance to test it properly on a highway, but I think it was better while driving in the city. But I wont say anything yet because it’s always been much more noticeable on the highway.

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