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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I decided to document what I did. Right or wrong this is what I am thinking of doing. Info out there is vague. There is like a zillion options for butyl stuff. Everything from Dynamat, Fatmat, Noico, to Peel and Seal from Lowes that people have used. Then actual placement of that stuff. Some people line everything. Others will tell you that anything over 25% coverage is a waste. Then to take it a step farther finishing it off with a closed cell foam. Another thing to keep in mind is that no matter what you do you will not reduce noise in an old XJ interior and make it quiet like a Caddy. But people have expressed a significant improvement. Also be aware that I really do not care about interior noise. I am more a turn up the volume on the radio kinda guy. But the thing is I have to go in and do things. Install an overhead console. Driver's side door is getting a new door check. Need to install the Infinity Tweeters I bought. Need to track down a cargo bay leak. Also have to run a wire for the power seat for the leather removable headrest seats that I picked up and want to install. So since interior panels need to be pulled off and carpets need to be taken up at least enough to run that wire it is more a while I am here thing.

So as far as the butyl backed stuff I goes I was leaning towards the Noico 50 mil stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URR4O5I?psc=1

Thing is some people expressed concerns about the butyl kinda melting and running out.

As Peel and Seal goes some people were very happy with it. Others not so much. One of the reasons being the smell.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-...s-6-in-x-25-ft-Aluminum-Roll-Flashing/1018733

So I ended up with buying the Dynamat. Was able to score that for $130, timing is everything, instead of $150 at Amazon though.

https://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-10455-Self-Adhesive-Deadener-Xtreme/dp/B00020CB2S

My thinking at the moment is to use the Dynamat on the roof and all vertical places. Resulting from people expressing the butyl running out of the back of the Noico stuff. But I am thinking I am going to use the Noico for the floor. We will see how far that one package of Dynamat goes.

Now closed cell foam. Dynaliner is an option.

https://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-11101-Dynaliner-Self-Adhesive-Deadener/dp/B001KM9C4C

Pricey though. So I was looking for cheaper options. Also was not thinking I need it to be adhesive backed for most places. So was looking at this stuff.

https://www.zoro.com/e-james-sponge-neo-epdm-sbr-18thick-72x42-ccnes18f25-25p/i/G4337426/

My logic is I might need to get behind panels. Door for instance if you need to replace a window regulator. So was thinking of using 3M Velcro to secure it to the panels. Thing is that is kinda pricey too. MMM 06480

https://www.napaonline.com/p/MMM06480

So I went with this instead.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...-ac722-221412008/25984473-P?searchTerm=velcro

Now I cheaped out on the closed cell foam. I could not look at this before I bought it. Had to order it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blue-Wav...475?cm_mmc=ola|criteo|28I-28-27-11|22037|D28I

I really don't recommend this. Was hoping it would be a little denser. But remember I really don't care. So I am going to use this. I also contacted the manufacturer for the min and max temps before I placed the order. -45 degress F to 200 degrees F. So those specs were close to better close cell foams I was looking at.

So the logic at the moment is to use the cheap closed cell foam everywhere but the roof. Attached with velcro on vertical panels and thinking just lay it under the carpet for the floor. But for the roof I am thinking I am going to bite the bullet and use the Dynaliner. It is the one place I will not have to get to anything behind it so it can be more permanent.

Another thing to keep in mind I have no idea what kind of clearances I am dealing with. Maybe you could fit 80 mil Noico behind things. Or 1/4" closed cell foam. But I am keeping everything at 1/8".

So started with the driver's door. Had to replace the door check and install the Infinity Tweeter. Was tired of that popping sound. I apologize for the lousy pictures but am hoping you will get the idea. I have various left over chemicals from previous projects. Adhesive remover, Duplicolor Grease and Wax Remover, and some prepsol. Cleaned up everything with the prepsol. When I run out of that will move on to the next left over chemical. When you look at the inside of the outer door skin you will see it is kind of in 3 sections. So I used a 3"X18" piece centered in the top and bottom. For the middle I cut 2 6"X12" pieces to use away from the door check and a 5"X6" piece to finish off that last section by the door check. My concerns about getting it in there and not getting stuck to anywhere on the way in were not as bad as I thought. Probably could have done the 2 6"X12" sections in on piece. Maybe. By the way it appears a utility knife is what is recommended to cut the Dynamat but I used a pair of Harbor Freight scissors. The ones they give you for free with a purchase and they worked just fine for me. Oh also bought the roller.

https://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-1000...rd_wg=hgjU3&psc=1&refRID=ABP39Z29KY9CMHA6VJ13

Some sections were a little tight for the roller so just did the best I could with my finger tips.

I must say that as far as tapping on the sections there is a definite difference in tone from the driver's door after I did what I did compared to the undone passenger side door in the same sections. Driver's door had more of thud while the passenger door had more of a ting to it.

So then I went to the inside part of the inner door skin. Not wanting to cover the whole thing I just started tapping it. Some places were more of a thud then others so I concentrated on putting small pieces in the sections I could that I felt had more of a ting sound. The third picture is what I ended up with. Again right or wrong it is what it is. I end up using most of one sheet of Dynamat on the drivers door. Have about a 12"X12" piece left.

Now I put the vapor barrier back on. Still was sticky enough to stay and cut a piece of the closed cell foam, with the appropriate slits for the rods and wiring, and secured it with velcro. Punched a few holes with a pen through it, mostly for the body clips on the door panel. Unfortunately I was getting tired, not as young as I used to be, and neglected to take a picture of that. Will remember to do so when I do the passenger door.

Also this thread will be updated as I do more. I am sure I will change things up too. I have this bad habit of overthinking everything. For instance I am not sure if I really want a power seat. So if I keep it manual the floor might not get done for awhile if ever. Stuff like that.

My hope is that my install might help other people. Figure at the very least it can serve as an example of what not to do. Also if anybody has any opinions on this I am all ears. Lets face it. Despite the research I tried to do am still pretty clueless about this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So I finished the passenger door. Couple things I learned. The vapor barrier was more difficult to get off on the passenger side. After two small rips trying to get it off it dawned on me to hit it with my cheap Harbor Freight Heat Gun. Seemed to do the trick. Tried to work off a picture of the driver's door because I wanted to duplicate what I did on the passenger side. Working off the picture was a pain. Wish I left the driver's door open to see better. Traced the vapor barrier onto the closed cell piece for the passenger side. Made things a bit easier. When I did the driver's side I just did it on the fly. And since I already had the measurements and placement figured out the passenger side went quicker as far as the inner side of the outer door skin. By the way I ended up using about 1 2/3 of those 18"X32" sheets for the front doors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Had to take a 60 mile around trip last night to pick up an air compressor. Most of it being highway. Placebo effect, just my imagination maybe, but with just the front doors done the Jeep seemed quieter. Also with the Infinity Tweeters I installed while I was there and the sound dampening it was like I could hear more of the music in the background from my stock system. Hope that makes sense. Was listening to my dealer installed 6 CD Changer that I have in there during the trip.
 

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When I did mine I noticed that the door slam sound on the driver's side (only door I did) was less "tinny" and "metallic-sounding" and more of a solid thunk when it closes.

I pulled the headliner board and put down dynamat to the roof and then dynaliner over it, then replaced headliner board with new material. Seems quieter in the rain is all. I find the rear wheel wells to be another source of noise when the road is wet.

Best thing is probably to pull all the carpet and put down both again under it to really get it insulated and quiet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When I did mine I noticed that the door slam sound on the driver's side (only door I did) was less "tinny" and "metallic-sounding" and more of a solid thunk when it closes.

I pulled the headliner board and put down dynamat to the roof and then dynaliner over it, then replaced headliner board with new material. Seems quieter in the rain is all. I find the rear wheel wells to be another source of noise when the road is wet.

Best thing is probably to pull all the carpet and put down both again under it to really get it insulated and quiet.
Had the same result with the doors even with the limited coverage. Was thinking of doing the same thing to my roof. Was hoping for a better review. Full coverage of Dynaliner is over $100 cause I estimate 3 sheets.

Thanks for the tip on the rear wheel wells. Want to do that but that section is down low on the list.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So I finally got around to doing the back doors. Because I finally got around to putting in the privacy glass I scored in the boneyard to replace my crappy turned purple aftermarket tints that the PO put on the Jeep. Now remember really don't care and it is more a while I am here thing when it comes to the sound deadening. The inside of an outer door skin is kinda of in 3 sections. So I put a strip in each section. Centered. Covering about 2/3 of the door from side to side. What I did do that I did not do in the front doors was put a piece on the bottom that is a horizontal section. Made me wonder why I did not do that in the front doors and then I realized that the rat tail for the regulator kinda runs there so figured that is why I did not. When I did the inside of the inner skin I just used some small pieces here and there. Again just putting a piece where I thought it was a little more tinny when rapping on the door. The back doors give off more of a thud then a tinny sound before you even do them. Guessing cause they are smaller. So I only used the 1/3 of that sheet that was left from the front doors and a total of 4"X18" off another sheet.

So something I discovered is that the vapor barrier in the '97 I took the privacy glass out of was of better quality then the ones in my '00. It is actual plastic instead of that paper lined plastic, guessing that's what it is, that I have in the '00. You can't tear it. At least not as easily. Had I known and not already done the fronts I would have grabbed them too. So I cut the foam. Cut all the appropriate holes and slits. Attached with the velcro like in the fronts. Forgot to take a picture of the foam on the barrier but not like you really need to see it.

Have been dealing with a fair amount of double sided tape and the velcro again. Wish I thought of this sooner. Take your straight pick and use it to peel enough of the backing tape off to grab.

So that is it for the back doors. Hopefully next will be the roof when I get my overhead console headliner back from my guy. Oh and I ditched the idea of using the Dynaliner on the roof. Not spending $125 for something that I do not really care about. I am just going to use that foam I have and probably secure it to the headliner instead of the roof.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So I finally got my overhead console headliner, overhead console, and lighted visors back from my upholstery guy. So since the dome light headliner has to come out decided to continue with the sound deadening. So the bracket up there has to be changed too so I drilled that out first. When you look at the roof it is in 3 sections front to back. 5 from side to side. So I just filled the sections with a piece of the Dynamat. Fronts section I cut 6"X16" pieces. Middle was 6"X18". Back was 6"X10 1/2"ish. I based the sizes on what would fit in each section and also how many I could get out of each sheet of Dynamat. Used a new sheet for each section. Figure because of only partial coverage we will call it about 2 1/2 sheets to do the roof. So as usual cleaned up the metal with some adhesive/wax/grease cleaning crap, stuck it on, and rolled it out. Most use I got out of the roller. Could not really use it too much when I did the doors. I have the plastic speaker bar that is under the headliner in my '00. A couple tabs just stick in some slots on each side of the Jeep. Wiring is only attached at the passenger side. Just give it a good yank to get it out of the way on the driver's side. Prop it up so you do not put undue stress on wiring. This gives you better access to the back section. Also the back section does not sound as tinny as the front 2 did before you Dynamat. Was almost tempted to not even bother. Remember don't care, turn up the radio, just cause I am here, etc.
 

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So I finally got my overhead console headliner, overhead console, and lighted visors back from my upholstery guy. So since the dome light headliner has to come decided to continue with the sound deadening. So the bracket up there has to be changed too so I drilled that out first. When you look at the roof it is in 3 sections front to back. 5 from side to side. So I just filled the sections with a piece of the Dynamat. Fronts section I cut 6"X16" pieces. Middle was 6"X18". Back was 6"X10 1/2"ish. I based the sizes on what would fit in each section and also how many I could get out of each sheet of Dynamat. Used a new sheet for each section. Figure because of only partial coverage we will call it about 2 1/2 sheets to do the roof. So as usual cleaned up the metal with some adhesive/wax/grease cleaning crap, stuck it on, and rolled it out. Most use I got out of the roller. Could not really use it too much when I did the doors. I have the plastic speaker bar that is under the headliner in my '00. A couple tabs just stick in some slots on each side of the Jeep. Wiring is only attached at the passenger side. Just give it a good yank to get it out of the way on the driver's side. Prop it up so you do not put undue stress on wiring. This gives you better access to the back section. Also the back section does not sound as tinny as the front 2 did before you Dynamat. Was almost tempted to not even bother. Remember don't care, turn up the radio, just cause I am here, etc.
This is great! Have you had any noticeable change in gas mileage?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I decided to put the foam in the roof using the 3 sections as guides where I placed the Dynamat. Cut a piece 21"X 44" for the front section. 26"X 44" for the middle. 15"X 44" for the back. Couple things I might not have mentioned so if I am repeating myself I apologize. The velcro type stuff I buy from Advanced. Not sure I much I use so I really can't tell you how much to buy. If you decide to follow my lead, would make me question your judgement though (LOL), make sure you get on their mailing list and use the 20% off promo codes they will always be emailing you. Also the two parts do not come attached. They are separate. I always stick them together when I open up a fresh pack. I cut about 1" pieces for all the foam I have attached, positioned and spaced accordingly. I peel off the backing on the one side I attach to the foam. Give it a quick roll with the roller. Then just before I am going to put it where ever I peel off the other part at stick it on. Then once in place I give it a good roll again with the roller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes, because I have no idea if it has an effect or not, as I am unsure how much this kind of stuff weighs.
Well Amazon say the "Item Weight" is 15lbs. I think the whole package of 9 18" X 32" sheets weighs more then that. But I was never very good at guessing the weight of things. So say they are right. If you use a whole package 15lbs of additional weight in a Jeep should make little if no difference. At least IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·

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People seem to like it. Is that stuff butyl or adhesive backed? Or do you just lay it in there?
It's closed cell polyethylene. All the info is on their website. Be sure to read the fire ratings and testing.

http://www.lobucrod.com/

Not adhesive backed. I used 3M adhesives - spray on for the interior. A high temp brush on for under the hood.

On the floor, I bedlined the metal, then laid the EZ Cool. Then two more coats of bedliner, before I put down the carpet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It's closed cell polyethylene. All the info is on their website. Be sure to read the fire ratings and testing.

http://www.lobucrod.com/

Not adhesive backed. I used 3M adhesives - spray on for the interior. A high temp brush on for under the hood.

On the floor, I bedlined the metal, then laid the EZ Cool. Then two more coats of bedliner, before I put down the carpet.
Thanks for the link. Did not think it was. Have to take some time and read up on that stuff. Might consider that for the floors instead of the Nocio and do the whole floor. I was just going to do patches here and there on the floor like I have been doing with the rest of the Jeep. I want to be able to get at things if necessary. If that is something I could lay down and pull out for whatever reason I might have to I like that idea so much better. Especially for the floor. I have serious commitment issues. LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So I got the hatch done today so far. Was kinda of a pain because of the small openings to get at the inside of the outer skin. Rolled it as best I could. Used my fingers and the end of a screwdriver mostly. Can't really take a good picture either. On the inside of the inner skin I just tapped like I have been doing and placed pieces here and there where I thought it sounded more tinny. Did lay a couple strips at the top of the lower section below the glass. Also put a couple strips on the outside of the inner panel near where the openings were. Could not put them on the inside because the plastic molding would not hide them. Also decided to not use any foam because of that big piece of carpet like padding that is already there. I am going to go on to the wheel wells now but I see some rust inside on the passenger side. So I am going to POR 15 in there. Normally when I POR 15 I would clean/degrease and metal prep before I do. But that would be mess and since both those chemicals need to be rinsed off where would the water go. I have had good luck applying POR 15 to rusty areas that has not been prepped. Which is all I am going to cover in there. Doing cleaner metal without prep would be a waste of time and money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So while the POR 15 is drying I decided to get the driver's side done. It is kinda 2 places in there. I use a 2" X18" piece at the top. A 4" X 15" piece below that. The third spot I did was over the wheel well. A 4" X 18" piece as far towards the front of the Jeep as I could get then a 4" X 8" piece behind the bigger piece. Just easier to do it in 2 pieces. Also no foam again because the plastic was backed with more of the carpet type padding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So I finished up the passenger side today. Used the following in the rear quarter. 3" X 18" across the very top. 4" X 12" below that. Cause that silver piece was already in there. Thinking that was not from the factory but.... Used a 4" X 18" piece over the wheel well going as far forward as I could with another 4" X 8" running down the back side. Shoved a 5" X 6" down into the lower part of the quarter panel. Threw a small 4" X 8" piece near the silver piece. I had some pieces left and slapped them in a couple places. No foam again cause of the carpet. And the last shot just cause I wanted to show off my Jeep.

So I have 2 2/3 of the 9 18" X 32" sheets of Dynamat left. Want to say it makes a difference. But frankly I can't be sure if the way I did it was worth.

As far as the floor goes I a rethinking the Noico. I was checking out the link for the stuff Tophog1 posted. I even contacted them because it seemed that most people were gluing it down on their floor. I do not want anything permanent on the floor.
My Email:
I have what I hope is a simple question.
Is it necessary to glue down your product on the floor under the carpet?
I don't want to attach anything more permanent to the floor of my '00 Cherokee Sport.
Just hoping to lay it down and put the carpet back on top of it.
My goal is sound deadening. But it is something that I don't overly care about.
I have to go in there and rip out the carpet do to a couple things. It is more a while
I am here thing.
I have to assume that the product not be glued down would not achieve the full benefit
of your product.
In your opinion would I still benefit, to a smaller degree, without gluing it down?
Thank You.
Ralph

Their response:
Ralph, as a matter of fact I do not recommend gluing the insulation down to the floor. An the vehicles I insulate I form the insulation to fit the floor then lay the carpet over it. Gluing it down does not increase the performance of the product and not gluing it lets you remove it easily in case water gets in the vehicle.

Thinking the 100 sq. ft. package is the one for complete coverage. But I will have to think about this. Thinking the floor will not be done till next year anyway.
 

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