[jjmac12345]

Hi, I have an 04 Overland Edition Grand Cherokee. It’s having some idle issues and acceleration issues and rpm’s are jumping around at highway speeds. I replaced the tps and iac and it didn’t fix it. A mechanic looked at it and didn’t see any vacuum leaks and said the throttle body had some play in it. I’m just trying to locate a throttle body that will replace my stock one, but haven’t been able to track one down. Does anyone know if there is one out there?

 

[smokeyyank]

eBay, yards, or car-part.com, google. They are out there.

 

[jjmac12345]

eBay, yards, or car-part.com, google. They are out there.

So my only option is a used one?

 

[Mr. Bitey]

I bought one from deadjeep.com as a spare for like $35. I don't see one for a 4.7 on their website currently, but they often have Jeeps that haven't been stripped yet - you may try and call them. I used to run a Moe's 78mm, but I don't think they are even available anymore, and it really didn't do much but reduce MPG...

There is one on ePray, I honestly rarely trust new products there, let alone used.....

Dodge 4.7L Throttle Body Assembly | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Dodge 4.7L Throttle Body Assembly at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[jjmac12345]

I found one that looks pretty good on eBay. What about a new gasket? I’m gonna have someone replace it just trying to get the parts lined up to make it go as smooth as possible. Thanks

 

[Mr. Bitey]

What about a new gasket?

FEL-PRO 61182. It's on Amazon. Less than $5.

 

[Waterluvr]

You know what's not a part of the throttle body operation? Idle speeds, the TB has nothing to do with it if it's reasonably clean and snug on the base gasket you have other issues causing the problems. When your throttle body is closed and the TPS is communicating that to the pcm idle operation is completely controlled by the pcm / 4 wire driver circuit / IAC stepper motor.

Your mechanic may be missing something here, at a minimum a proper scan tool should be put in play to command the IAC stepper motor and idle rpm's to test the function of the pcm, wiring and IAC stepper motor.

 

[jjmac12345]

You know what's not a part of the throttle body operation? Idle speeds, the TB has nothing to do with it if it's reasonably clean and snug on the base gasket you have other issues causing the problems. When your throttle body is closed and the TPS is communicating that to the pcm idle operation is completely controlled by the pcm / 4 wire driver circuit / IAC stepper motor.

Your mechanic may be missing something here, at a minimum a proper scan tool should be put in play to command the IAC stepper motor and idle rpm's to test the function of the pcm, wiring and IAC stepper motor.

I’ve had it to two mechanics neither one knew what the problem was. They both have over 30 years of experience. Not sure exactly what to do at this point. When I changed the iac it did make some things change somewhat.

 

[jjmac12345]

This Jeep has 95,000 miles on it btw.

 

[Waterluvr]

@jjmac12345
Provided you don't have any vacuum leaks elsewhere it's just unlikely your TB is the culprit. Changing the IAC usually has some effect on what you know as normal everyday operation because they respond faster to commands from the powertrain control module when clean and new.

At 95K that TB is just getting broken in, that box on the passenger side firewall is responsible for everything that IAC stepper motor does right or wrong.

 

[jjmac12345]

@jjmac12345
Provided you don't have any vacuum leaks elsewhere it's just unlikely your TB is the culprit. Changing the IAC usually has some effect on what you know as normal everyday operation because they respond faster to commands from the powertrain control module when clean and new.

At 95K that TB is just getting broken in, that box on the passenger side firewall is responsible for everything that IAC stepper motor does right or wrong.

What's my next step then? I’m a novice, don’t know much of anything. Try a third mechanic I guess. See what he finds.

 

[Waterluvr]

@jjmac12345
One thing you can do at home is test the 4 IAC driver circuits, all 4 need to be tested for continuity to ground to eliminate the possibility of shorts and from the IAC motor plug end take continuity readings and write down the ohms for all 4 circuits going back to the pcm.

Bad IAC drivers will usually show a pretty good discrepancy in ohms on one or more of those 4 circuits.

 

[BigBillLV]

Hi, I have an 04 Overland Edition Grand Cherokee. It’s having some idle issues and acceleration issues and rpm’s are jumping around at highway speeds. I replaced the tps and iac and it didn’t fix it. A mechanic looked at it and didn’t see any vacuum leaks and said the throttle body had some play in it. I’m just trying to locate a throttle body that will replace my stock one, but haven’t been able to track one down. Does anyone know if there is one out there?

I had very similar issue (and diagnoses) with my 2002 GC Overland. Had multiple people searching the U.S. for a new/rebuilt 2002-2004 Throttle Body to no avail. I found a some used one on eBay but most look as though they have been through a hurricane flood or worse. Cheap but I wouldn't waste my money on them. Mine is in much better shape.
Because the Manufacturer has quit making these Throttle bodies, nobody make a rebuild kit and there's no aftermarket that makes a replacement, seem as through it is a stretch that this thing ever goes bad (except in a wreck).

JeepFroum Member suggested that I take my Jeep to a different shop! I followed that advise and took it to a AAA shop. They found the fuel pump is most likely the actual problem. Pressure at power on is about half of Spec and drops badly under load. suggest you have this checked out. I'm having them clean the entire fuel system (w/ injectors and throttle body) and replace the pump & filter. I haven't got it back yet, so I've got my fingers crossed but so far so good on the testing.

Good luck.

 

[jjmac12345]

I had very similar issue (and diagnoses) with my 2002 GC Overland. Had multiple people searching the U.S. for a new/rebuilt 2002-2004 Throttle Body to no avail. I found a some used one on eBay but most look as though they have been through a hurricane flood or worse. Cheap but I wouldn't waste my money on them. Mine is in much better shape.
Because the Manufacturer has quit making these Throttle bodies, nobody make a rebuild kit and there's no aftermarket that makes a replacement, seem as through it is a stretch that this thing ever goes bad (except in a wreck).

JeepFroum Member suggested that I take my Jeep to a different shop! I followed that advise and took it to a AAA shop. They found the fuel pump is most likely the actual problem. Pressure at power on is about half of Spec and drops badly under load. suggest you have this checked out. I'm having them clean the entire fuel system (w/ injectors and throttle body) and replace the pump & filter. I haven't got it back yet, so I've got my fingers crossed but so far so good on the testing.

Good luck.

Let me know how it turns out.

Mine is idling pretty normal now when cold. Once it gets warm it idles around 1000 in park. Going down the highway at 50-60 it will jump up in rpm’s from normal 1500-1600 up to 2000 for a couple seconds then go back down. Sometimes it doesn’t do it all, other times it’s very consistent. And when take off from a stop it’s like there’s a poor throttle response, I have to push a little harder on the gas to get it going.

 

[Waterluvr]

@jjmac12345
Your WJ jeep has built in onboard diagnostics, with a pen and paper in hand to write down any codes in the odometer window it will display them if any are stored or it will display done if there are none.

Turn the ignition to on / run, then back to off / on three times and it will display that information in the odometer readout.

 

[jjmac12345]

@jjmac12345
Your WJ jeep has built in onboard diagnostics, with a pen and paper in hand to write down any codes in the odometer window it will display them if any are stored or it will display done if there are none.

Turn the ignition to on / run, then back to off / on three times and it will display that information in the odometer readout.

The check engine light has never came on. I checked it now it said “done”

 

[Double E]

Watrluvr is on the right track here. JJMAC too.
It's not the TB. Take it off youself and you'll see why there's no rebuild kit. It's just a hunk of metal with some passages in it and 2 sensors, that you already replaced. There's other things to look at that are causing the issue.
If 2 mechanics looked at it already for a poor idle, did they check the basics...like do a compression test or leak down test?
Are you losing coolant?
Fuel pump is a possibility, no question. It's going to be expensive to get to and there is no easy way to test pressure on your model year. For certain, the fuel pump was going to have to be replaced at some point anyway.
To me, if the compression/leakdown check comes back fine, and there are no codes, the fuel pump is next.
I've also had the crank position sensor give a surge and stumble at highway speeds but never an idle issue. That sensor is a little tougher to get to (remove starter to access) but it's no fuel pump swap.

One more thought...have the alternator checked. Those fail on the WJ at this age too and could be inconsistent in voltage output to the ignition. Free to get it checked...

 

[jjmac12345]

Watrluvr is on the right track here. JJMAC too.
It's not the TB. Take it off youself and you'll see why there's no rebuild kit. It's just a hunk of metal with some passages in it and 2 sensors, that you already replaced. There's other things to look at that are causing the issue.
If 2 mechanics looked at it already for a poor idle, did they check the basics...like do a compression test or leak down test?
Are you losing coolant?
Fuel pump is a possibility, no question. It's going to be expensive to get to and there is no easy way to test pressure on your model year. For certain, the fuel pump was going to have to be replaced at some point anyway.
To me, if the compression/leakdown check comes back fine, and there are no codes, the fuel pump is next.
I've also had the crank position sensor give a surge and stumble at highway speeds but never an idle issue. That sensor is a little tougher to get to (remove starter to access) but it's no fuel pump swap.

One more thought...have the alternator checked. Those fail on the WJ at this age too and could be inconsistent in voltage output to the ignition. Free to get it checked...

I’ve had this Jeep around 3 months. I’ve driven it 4K miles or so. I just looked and the coolant has gone down 1” in the reserve tank.

 

[BigBillLV]

Let me know how it turns out.

Mine is idling pretty normal now when cold. Once it gets warm it idles around 1000 in park. Going down the highway at 50-60 it will jump up in rpm’s from normal 1500-1600 up to 2000 for a couple seconds then go back down. Sometimes it doesn’t do it all, other times it’s very consistent. And when take off from a stop it’s like there’s a poor throttle response, I have to push a little harder on the gas to get it going.

Will do.

Mine issue started out with just a momentary flutter on mild acceleration. Then with a heavy-foot, it felt like I dropped an anchor. More throttle only made it worse. I also had a 'Check Engine' light and code (P0171).

Your issues don't really match. I was told that the throttle valve sometimes can get "sticky." Just needs to be cleaned up (might a well replace the gasket while you're at it )

 

[jjmac12345]

One of the mechanics said there was a vacuum leak around the intake manifold and they replaced the gasket. That didn’t change anything so I’m not sure if it was actually even a problem or not. I dunno if maybe just the gasket for the throttle body could be bad causing a small leak or something.