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Do I really have to raise the vehicle to replace the steering stabilizer? The FSM says to raise it. I have a 4 inch lift so plenty of access.

Also, Which orientation is the stabilizer supposed to be in? its tough to see in their diagram. Currently, my OEM stabilizer has the cylinder on the left side.
 

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Amateur Wrencher
2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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Shouldn’t have to lift it at all. Pretty simple “plug n’ play process”. Might have some new hardware to to clamp on but otherwise a bolt on procedure. I did mine a few months back and took all of 15 minutes at most. Orientation wise, yes cylinder on driver side, piston passenger.
 

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Here's a before and after of mine. The new Monroe unit would not go in, in the same orientation, as the original. Steering was still vastly improved, even though it was installed "backwards".
 

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Do I really have to raise the vehicle to replace the steering stabilizer? The FSM says to raise it. I have a 4 inch lift so plenty of access.

Also, Which orientation is the stabilizer supposed to be in? its tough to see in their diagram. Currently, my OEM stabilizer has the cylinder on the left side.
If you can change the stabilizer without raising your car, so much the bette NWr.
Better because you can tighten the bushed bolts without lowering your motor.

If orientation were important, the SM and the maker would tell you.
 

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WJ 4.7 HO my 2002
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@WJ60,
Probably I am misunderstanding: why are you saying that you changed the orientation in the new one?
From the pictures, I see same orientation, the only difference is that in the new one the rubber/plastic piston cover is missing, but the cylinder is always on the driver side.
 

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?
without lowering your motor.,,,,???
You are supposed to tighten bushes with the weight on the suspension 3.

If you can do undo the bolts that go through the bushes without lifting your car, then you can do them up without lowering your car.

If can't undo the steering damper / stabiliser bolts without lifting your car, then you have to chock your, lift your car, put blocks under the wheels, lower your car onto the blocks.

Then you do the job.

After you've done the job, you have to lift the car off the blocks, remove the blocks, & chocks, and then lower the car.

With your raised suspension you've no need to even get your jack out, let alone the blocks and, chocks.
 

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@WJ60 ,
Probably I am misunderstanding: why are you saying that you changed the orientation in the new one?
From the pictures, I see same orientation, the only difference is that in the new one the rubber/plastic piston cover is missing, but the cylinder is always on the driver side.
LOL.
Now that you ask I realize, after looking closer, that the old one had a shield over one end and they are oriented the same. My bad......
 

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You are supposed to tighten bushes with the weight on the suspension 3.

If you can do undo the bolts that go through the bushes without lifting your car, then you can do them up without lowering your car.

If can't undo the steering damper / stabiliser bolts without lifting your car, then you have to chock your, lift your car, put blocks under the wheels, lower your car onto the blocks.

Then you do the job.

After you've done the job, you have to lift the car off the blocks, remove the blocks, & chocks, and then lower the car.

With your raised suspension you've no need to even get your jack out, let alone the blocks and, chocks.
i know that, but..."
without lowering your motor..???
 
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