I decent socket set and box end wrenches. If you have some rust I'd start spraying the hardware down day or two in advance so it penetrates deep. I did mine on the ground. Took about an hour but I have air tools.
Replacing rear shocks
Going to be replacing the rear shocks with Bilstein 5100s and this will be the biggest job I will do on my Jeep! What tools do I need and what should I look out for? I have WD40 and some basic household hand tools. :smile2:
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
You may need a ratchet strap to get your axle back into position. That may be related to installing a lift with the 5100's but it comes to mind as being a bit of a struggle even when using a pinch bar.
If you're just doing the shocks it's not a terrible job. You'll want penetrating oil, a decent sized hammer, a half inch drive metric socket set, and a metric wrench set. If possible, a torque wrench and some anti-seize are recommended.
Spray penetrating oil on the upper and lower bolts a couple times a day for a couple days before tackling it. Try to really get the oil in there.
I found the best way to do it was to lift the whole back end up, take off both tires, then lower the jeep onto jack stands, allowing the axle to sag. Place your jack under the centre of the diff.
Undo the lower bolts, then use the jack to lift the rear axle to take weight of the shocks. The bottom bolt should be able to be easily tapped out with a hammer. Then just remove the upper bolts and the shocks.
Install the new shocks upper bolt first, then use your jack to raise or lower the axle to get the lower shock bolt lined up and install the bolt and nut, torque to spec.
If you have anti-seize, but a light coating on the threads of the bolts before you put them back in
Spray penetrating oil on the upper and lower bolts a couple times a day for a couple days before tackling it. Try to really get the oil in there.
I found the best way to do it was to lift the whole back end up, take off both tires, then lower the jeep onto jack stands, allowing the axle to sag. Place your jack under the centre of the diff.
Undo the lower bolts, then use the jack to lift the rear axle to take weight of the shocks. The bottom bolt should be able to be easily tapped out with a hammer. Then just remove the upper bolts and the shocks.
Install the new shocks upper bolt first, then use your jack to raise or lower the axle to get the lower shock bolt lined up and install the bolt and nut, torque to spec.
If you have anti-seize, but a light coating on the threads of the bolts before you put them back in
I just did mine this afternoon, nothing fancy, just replace the rusty ones with some GABRIEL I got from rockauto.
the bottom bolts are so rusty on mine that I have to use impact to break it loose and remove them.
the bolt on both ends are 15mm, and spray some wd40 before you remove the wheels (even better the day before), so give it some time to penetrate. If the bolts were torqued to specs (not overtight), they shouldn't be that hard to remove.
my new ones come already compressed, I bolt the lower first and release the wire that hold the absorber compressed little by little till the upper holes align together and bolt it.
the bottom bolts are so rusty on mine that I have to use impact to break it loose and remove them.
the bolt on both ends are 15mm, and spray some wd40 before you remove the wheels (even better the day before), so give it some time to penetrate. If the bolts were torqued to specs (not overtight), they shouldn't be that hard to remove.
my new ones come already compressed, I bolt the lower first and release the wire that hold the absorber compressed little by little till the upper holes align together and bolt it.
Could you confirm the torque specs: 70 lb-ft for upper bolt and 85 lb-ft for lower bolt? :nerd:If you're just doing the shocks it's not a terrible job. You'll want penetrating oil, a decent sized hammer, a half inch drive metric socket set, and a metric wrench set. If possible, a torque wrench and some anti-seize are recommended.
Spray penetrating oil on the upper and lower bolts a couple times a day for a couple days before tackling it. Try to really get the oil in there.
I found the best way to do it was to lift the whole back end up, take off both tires, then lower the jeep onto jack stands, allowing the axle to sag. Place your jack under the centre of the diff.
Undo the lower bolts, then use the jack to lift the rear axle to take weight of the shocks. The bottom bolt should be able to be easily tapped out with a hammer. Then just remove the upper bolts and the shocks.
Install the new shocks upper bolt first, then use your jack to raise or lower the axle to get the lower shock bolt lined up and install the bolt and nut, torque to spec.
If you have anti-seize, but a light coating on the threads of the bolts before you put them back in
I did mine about 5-6 years ago and used a scissors jack to compress the shock enough to get the lower mounting holes to line up. Not a bad job at all similar to doing them on our ZJ.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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