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I prefer to take a whiz outside where I live. Middle of the day, middle of the night.

The less times you use the toilet means the less times you have to clean it.

Work smart, not hard. LOL.
 

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I do miss the country where my folks live. Peaceful and you can see stars when taking a whiz outside in the middle of the night. I’m sure there are spots like that in AZ but not so much in Phoenix. Definitely won’t be running around naked here. The sun is no joke.
Just run around at night. If people ask, tell them you grew up a nudist, and were asleep walking.

If they need proof just post here a few times and shoot them this thread.
 

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Seems wrong, but that's what works for me.
Maybe it was a post from you years ago that was rattling my memory? The phraseology seems familiar from when I stuck a 1993? distributor in a later XJ block. It either was perfect or I’ve been a tooth off and too dumb to notice. (I think it’s fine)
rotor blade should be just PAST the #1 plug post when correctly installed on the 4.0
would ALWAYS stab the distributor like you have it. Dead center on the #1 post. Then it would crank and crank and crank, but not fire.
That should tell everyone all they need to know
almost 250 years later and they can’t give up on the war, can they?
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 · (Edited)
Another failed effort. I put the distributor back to where it should be. Still same thing.

I got codes 41 and 24. I got 41 because I didn’t have the belt on. Not sure why I had TPS but I probably need to back probe and check voltages.

Any thoughts on the throttle body? I am out of ideas unless I didn’t put the timing chain on correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
have we confirmed spark and fuel?
Yep. Got zapped yesterday checking it. Fuel pressure is 38 psi at the rail and it’s spraying into the cylinders. My #1 plug is black and looks to be running rich.

Still seems like a timing thing but wonder if ignition has any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
So are you back to running but won't rev, or still not running?
Cranks and idles but doesn’t rev.

My plan now is to back probe the TPS, maybe check the coil? Easy enough with my multimeter. I’ll clear codes beforehand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Back probed the TPS. Engine off and key on. Signal input voltage was a solid 5VDC. The signal voltage was ~0.78VDC and as I rotated the throttle it gradually increased and topped out at ~3.8VDC. Never went any higher.
 

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From the info I find. A code 24 is that the ECM read below .2v or above 4.5v from the TPS. You have also had MAP sensor codes IIRC. The TPS and the MAP both share a common 5v reference wire. There is a splice. I am not sure where that one is at this time. They also share a common ground circuit back to the ECM along with a bunch of (or maybe all of the other) sensors. It is splice 114, it is near the throttle body.

Seeing you had the engine out and back in. Are all of your grounds and other connections ok? Do you have a good ground near the distributor. An important one hooks up there. Does it ground well back to the firewall? And then back to the battery?

You could always pay my airfare to AZ, my accommodations, lost time from work, and let me borrow the Gladiator when I am there. No need for you to rent me a car. LOL. I will buy my own food. I have to pay for food at home anyways. Other than all of that. I will diag and fix it for free.

See. I am a nice guy. I am generous.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
I have a spare guest room. But my girls tend to keep me broke 😂. Airfare will be tough.

I did find wires touching (I think) at the plug for the cam sensor. Plug was twisted and the insulation was gone. I also did not check the grounds for the other sensors. My grounds are the head, body, engine and back the battery.
 

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so Idles but wont rev. Tone ring for the cam position sensor. Yours looks, well, old. The wires are, well, scraggly. Do you have an alternative distributor to pop in and test?

The non-revving part has me thinking the signal for the cam is not reading correctly - that said, I think the engine would shut sown via ECM if the cam position is unknown. Maybe it's always reading at idle?

My advice is stab a known working more recent distributor and see if it clears it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 · (Edited)
I will throw $50 towards airfare

So like 18-20 more $50 commitments will make airfare, won’t it?

btw I am not joking 🧐 dead serious committing
I am pretty desperate for help but it’s not my daily so it’s tolerable.

so Idles but wont rev. Tone ring for the cam position sensor. Yours looks, well, old. The wires are, well, scraggly. Do you have an alternative distributor to pop in and test?

The non-revving part has me thinking the signal for the cam is not reading correctly - that said, I think the engine would shut sown via ECM if the cam position is unknown. Maybe it's always reading at idle?

My advice is stab a known working more recent distributor and see if it clears it up.
Correct on all accounts. I don’t know anyone with a working distributor but a new one is maybe $140. I suppose a distributor can go bad. I’m also wondering about other sensors. Any one think a semi-faulty CPS can do this?

still need to check grounds on sensor plugs.

EDIT: I’ve been researching a lot of 4.0L threads about this and the one that made sense was a bad camshaft position sensor. Some guy had the same symptoms. As you noted Luuca, the wires are scraggly and the distributor is old. If I can find a replacement (OEM preferable) or at least a camshaft sensor I think that may be my best bet. The wires were bare and touching which could have impacted the sensor.
 

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The wires were bare and touching which could have impacted the sensor.
This is a really solid thought. Many of the sensors share a common voltage reference (supply voltage) and all of them seem to share a common ground circuit to the ECM. What I am saying is that if wires are touching each other at the cam sensor then they can mess with voltage or grounds to other sensors. It could explain why you randomly pop up TPS and MAP codes for instance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Sooo…I continued to throw parts at the YJ. I bought a new distributor from O’Reilly’s. Not reman’ed but not that it matters since it’s not OEM.

Well, I put it in and lo and behold…it did the exact same thing 😭.

Well, I then said, let me test that ignition coil I got a year or two ago. I took it off and the primary resistance was in spec (0.9 ohms). I tested the resistance on the secondary side and it’s 9200 ohms. The low end of the specifications are over 11,000 ohms.

Could the ignition coil really be the problem???

I got my latest coil from Napa. I still have my bad Autozone one with the lifetime warranty. I will trade it in and see what happens. If this is the problem, I will probably break down and weep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
I have a Suzuki 40HP outboard that did that. Idle all day but don’t throttle up!
And you just remembered this!? 🤣

I got both coils and both secondary resistances are 9.53 kilo-ohms and 9.37 kilo-ohms. Well below 11.3 kilo-ohms. The lesser resistance wouldn’t let my jeep run but the higher one will let it idle.

Let’s hope it fixes it. I only checked the coil because the spark seemed weak when I tested.

I also left my ignition “ON” for the last 5 days…I had a tender on it but it was indicating something was wrong. It’s charging now.
 

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