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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
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I鈥檝e started cutting steel pieces for the shackle hangers on the frame. 3 out of 4 are cut and ready to weld. The final hanger will be the drivers front. Due to possible clearance issues, I鈥檇 like to wait until the power steering bracket is mounted before making the final hanger. These are also 2.5 inches wide by 1.25鈥 ID to accommodate the YJ springs that I鈥檓 going to install.
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I more or less copied the early CJ5 style hanger, just in YJ width.
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Some more measuring, planning, and fabbing. I finally did the math and figured out the spring and shackle hanger spacing. Got most of the hangers installed, minus the two in the front. For the Old Man Emu YJ springs I鈥檓 placing the hangers 44鈥 on center. This should (theoretically) place the shackles near the center of their total arc when the Jeep is sitting level.
I鈥檝e also decided to push the front axle forward one inch.
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I cut and removed the original crossmembers from the original frame to use as templates for the new ones.
Here is the large crossmember in the works. I left plenty of slack on both sides to make final fitment easy. Since the tub sits directly on this crossmember I think it鈥檚 a good idea to wait until the tub is assembled and mocked into the frame to make the final bends and weld this member in place. I wish I could duplicate the smooth bends of the original, but at least mine will be stronger.
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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
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I hit a snag with the power steering bracket. I purchased a weldable mount from Throttle Down Kustoms, the same company that makes the frame rails. While mocking up the part I noticed the standoffs were welded to the wrong side of the bracket. It鈥檚 a good thing I didn鈥檛 weld this to the frame already!
I contacted the company about it and sent these pictures. They confirmed that it was incorrect and sent me a new one free of charge, plus some stickers and a koozie!

I highly recommend Throttle Down Kustoms, the customer support is awesome! below is the wrong bracket (right) vs the correct bracket (left) and the note they sent me.


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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
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The power steering bracket has been one of the more complex parts to make so far. I measured the original bracket and I did my best to duplicate the proper angle, stand-off distance, and dropdown distance as the original. The original power steering bracket sits inside the C-channel frame and bolts through it. This one welds onto the outside. I haven鈥檛 determined the proper placement just yet.

Another thing I need to consider is that a bolt hole for the winch mount will land directly behind the power steering bracket. Pic below for reference.
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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
I still need to make the rear crossmember, but the steel I need is still in shipping.

I had some scrap angle iron laying around, so I made a couple jigs to hold the frame rails parallel. They need to be 29.25 inches apart measuring from the outside of the frame rails. Making a level 鈥渨orkbench鈥 to do this on my uneven concrete floor took a while!
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One of the most critical steps is making sure the frame rails are perfectly square. If you zoom in you may see some punch marks on the top of the frame (circled in black sharpie so I can find them 馃槀). I used these to measure an 鈥淴鈥 shape between the rails. When each side of the X measure the same, you know the frame is perfectly square.
I welded in these temporary braces to hold the frame square until all the crossmembers are in place.

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Since I can鈥檛 do much more to the frame today (waiting on parts shipment) I decided to straighten out the original grill. It was twisted, and most of the inside flanges were smashed inward from the engine hitting the radiator.
I regret not taking 鈥渂efore鈥 pictures, this pic from the scene kinda shows the warp.


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Here is after sandblasting and straightening. It came out better than I thought it would! It still has a small twist, but it鈥檚 very hard to see. The fenders will be able to keep it square. There are also a few cracks that I need to weld up. Shout out to my dad who helped with this.

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Here鈥檚 the newly cut body mounts next to the old ones. They were cut from rectangular tube. I might weld a 鈥渂ack鈥 to each one to stiffen it.
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The old ones are hot riveted to the frame. The new ones will weld on. Here鈥檚 where I need to make a decision鈥.. I鈥檇 like a 1鈥 body lift. Nothing crazy, just to add a little more clearance to the tires.

I could theoretically weld these mounts (and others) 1鈥 higher on the frame and add body lift without the taller bushings. Still undecided here鈥
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Better mounting them an inch higher welded to the frame than a long bolt through a long piece of rubber.
That鈥檚 what I鈥檓 thinking as well, the only thing I鈥檓 concerned about are the 4 rear body mounts across the rear crossmember. I don鈥檛 want to weld the entire crossmember 1鈥 higher than the frame rails. I could weld 1鈥 standoffs to the top of the rear crossmember, but it might look goofy.

to be fair, PO鈥檚 3鈥 body lift on the original Jeep looked super goofy too 馃槀
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fwiw, my fiberglass body '75 does not utilize the rear crossmember mounts, and it has survived during my ownership since 1993 with pretty significant off-roading/wheeling to "stress" things. you could eliminate two or all four of those, although with the tailgate, you might keep the inner pair.





 
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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
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fwiw, my fiberglass body '75 does not utilize the rear crossmember mounts, and it has survived during my ownership since 1993 with pretty significant off-roading/wheeling to "stress" things. you could eliminate two or all four of those, although with the tailgate, you might keep the inner pair.





That鈥檚 interesting, does the body rest on the crossmember behind the gas tank at all? I鈥檇 be worried about stress cracks around the other body mounts. I鈥檝e been known to heavily load the tub of my Jeep 馃槀
 

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no, not at all in the back along the rear crossmember (which is hiding behind my rear bumper). the "rear-most" body mounts are just behind the rear axle. i've had some "large" humans, three of them, riding in the rear seat with the fiberglass none the worse for the wear after that. i have not been gentle with this, either. it has been a dedicated wheeling/camping rig since 1997.

these are the rear-most mounts on the old frame (same as for the new frame) to the right of the wheels/axle, right where the frame begins its drop to the rear crossmember/bumper.





note the extra crossmember in front of the axle. the original had broken and rusted welds, and was only held to the frame by small straps just to retain the mounting framework for the parking brake cable assembly.




i guess i know what those two holes in the chassis are for aft of the gas tank.....

edit: a few more:





i also think that my non-tailgate jeep didn't use the outer two mounting points on the rear crossmember anyway, only the inner ones. same for my replacement frame - must have come from a non-tailgate cj-5.
 
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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
Wallytoo, that鈥檚 some beautiful work you鈥檝e done to that frame. I braced the inner rear corners very similarly to yours when I added the rear bumper also.
Are you positive a previous owner didn鈥檛 cut off the outer portion of the rear crossmember that sticks out beyond the frame rails? I鈥檝e never seen a rear crossmember like yours.
 
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