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Rear sway bar link bolts snapped

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The top bolt had the nut welded to the frame and it snapped in the middle, had to cut the nut off to get it out after removing top bracket.
The bottom bolt (sway bar bracket to bottom sway bar link) broke on threads half way out.

Here are the bolts
Material property Cylinder Gas Metal Wax

Bicycle part Gas Cylinder Wood Bumper

Wood Auto part Metal Tool Font

Does anyone know the measurements for these two bolts?
I need them to drive up to help family and can't wait on shipping.
I'm planning on going to tractor supply stores and several auto parts stores tomorrow since they are all closed tomorrow.
I'm gonna take the broke ones but I doubt they will have the shaft tapers and specific shaft sizes and want to eventually order them from a fastener website or local shop.
▪︎ Anyone know the measurements and where I can get them?
While I'm at it, are the front sway bar link bolts different sizes because I'd like to have new ones just in case they brake on removal

Vehicle Information:
2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L V8 standard output engine (VIN-N) "WJ"
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Just pull the bar off temporarily if needed.
It's not crucial to drive with but you will want to be careful changing lanes at highway speeds. Junk yard is the next easiest and predictable path for those bolts.

Maybe get lucky and the bar on the JY unit is the upgraded 1 inch diameter unit...
 
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Mopar Nut
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If my notes are correct, the shoulder bolt is a 06503726. Amazon has them for $23 a piece - ouch. If you hunt down the part number on the Google machine, maybe someone's listing includes the measurements in the description and you can get a match to close-enough elsewhere.....
 
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2002 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee
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Take the bolts to a hardware store, like Ace if you can. Ask someone to help you, it should not be a problem. I would probably try to get Grade 8 bolts. If that fails, a carriage bolt will probably get you through. Since you are time sensitive, do not get hung up on the length of the shoulder. Any shoulder will do in a pinch. If you can not get a shoulder at all, so be it. Get what you can for now and it will hold for a while. It just needs to fit through the hole.
 

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2002 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee
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Parts list says M10 x 1.5

6505 935AA SCREW, Sway Bar Link to Sill Bracket, Mounting

6502 696 NUT, Hex Flange Lock, M10x1.5, Sway Bar Link to Sway Bar, Mounting

6503 726 SCREW, Shoulder, Sway Bar Link to
Sway Bar, Mounting
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
6505 935AA $4.21 at Rock Auto
6503 726 $8.71 at Rock Auto
Both Mopar
I went to a Jeep dealership with a genuine Mopar part store and they charged me $46 for 2 bolts and 1 nut. They of course don't sell the top nut that's factory welded that I had to remove bracket and cut the welded-on nut off with sawzall bi-metal blades when the threads where broken off into it.
I went to a tractor supply store and bought the top bolt nut which was a M12x1.75

Here are the bolts and nuts info, part number and measurements.
• #1 - M12x1.75x65 top nolt
PartID=06505935AA
• #6 - M10x1.50x66 bottom bolt
PartID=06503726
• #5 nut M10x1.50, bottom
PartID=06502696
• #8 M10x1.50x35, Rear bushing Bracket bolts,
PartID=06503571
Link:

There has to be a better way to get these proprietary bolts?
The top bolt was a skinny shaft with large threads: M12x1.75x65
The bottom rear sway bar link bolt was a huge thick shaft with small skinny threads M10x1.50x65.

Pretty much no place carried these strange sizes but Mopar and I'm afraid I'm going to run into this issue on front links, sway bar bushing brackets, & control arms!
I'm sure BelMetric will work for some but Chrysler decided to make certain bolts proprietary.
The sway bar eyelet that connects to the bottom of link on rear had a very small hole with M10x1.50 pitch but a huge bolt shoulder. Could not drill through the sway bar bolt hole to make it fit a normal M12x1.75x65 like the top.
The inside hole of frame bracket for the top of rear link had a smaller hole that forces you to thread in their specific bolt one way because the nut is welded. So the sway bar link bracket has the nut facing the vehicle and the bottom of the link has the nut facing away from the vehicle.

Anyone have tips on a better way to handle bolts. Is there cheap places to get tight fitting bolts that are not Mopar prices.
I would prefer to pre-order all the hardware before continuing on part replacement on the suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
6505 935AA $4.21 at Rock Auto
6503 726 $8.71 at Rock Auto
Both Mopar
Thank you for the RockAuto prices. It looks like RockAuto doesn't have the front sway bar link bolts unless you buy the entire Dorman sway bar assembly for $132.
The rear sway bar assembly has the bar, Bracket and bushings with bolts for sway bar bracket. Cost $68 but doesn't have the link bolts.
I wish RockAuto had all the suspension bolts, even aftermarket would be acceptable if it had the same shaft sizes and tapers. I'm gonna be doing the entire suspension. Next up is rear links, rear and front sway bar bushing, front outer tie rod ends, front and rear coil springs with insulators and front/rear Lower Control arms. The bushings are Shor on everything.
But the steering improved after installing the new sway bar link on right rear tire.
Clank and grinding like rattle on bumps is still there. I suspect the muffler/tail pipe is rattling and I have a aftermarket mount I need to install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
6505 935AA $4.21 at Rock Auto
6503 726 $8.71 at Rock Auto
Both Mopar
Do you know the bolt size of the front sway bar links?
They look like they are the same on top to bottom unlike the rear. Hoping I can use BelMetric or other inexpensive Zinc plated M12x1.75x65mm ($2ea) instead of the expensive Zinc flake Mopars ($20 ea at dealership) or $8 ea on RockAuto wholesaler discount, I believe there are only 2 left on RockAuto discount and the shipping is $14 for wholesaler and I need 4 bolts for the front. I believe they are M12x1.75 and I think the length is 60-75mm

While I'm at it, what kind of drill bit can drill a bigger hole in the sway bars link hole in rear, I would like to change it to M12x1.75 with a 1/2" bit(12.7mm) instead of that M10 with tiny 1.50 thread that proprietary to Mopar.
Tried using a brass looking bit and a bit sharpener machine to no avail, ended up losing 1/4" off that drill bit.
I've heard Cobalt M42 8% drill bits are good ($12 ea) but are the 4% Cobalt drill bits acceptable ($10 each)?
Do I need the Carbide bits ($30 ea) :oops:
I'm to the point that I want to just make cheaper bolts fit in most areas so I can buy Class 10.9 yellow zinc bolts in bulk for under $2 a piece and $0.50 a nut.
 
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