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They do make the destacos with safety latches....
Yah I realized that after I had posted and did some googling. Nice price tag on these destaco latches!

Did some sourcing around online (today was a holiday, Canada) and I came across these from the local Princess Auto (Harbour Freight for Canadians lol).

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/large-toggle-spring-assembly/A-p8664377e?searchLocations=

Since I really don't want to fork over the money to have destaco latch shipped over I can prob make that one have a safety pin go through to prevent the toggle from flipping open. I also thought to have a backup latch on top of that that would also hold the bumper in its spot if it were to fail.

The secondary one would be something like this,

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/latch-spring-assembly/A-p8650913e

Basically this would be mounted to the end of the arm and the pin would pop inside the bottom bumper part as the arm closes in.

What you guys think of this combination?
 

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Ya the destaco latch looks nice but I also read a few times where it actually let loose.
Never

Look at your "2" on your license plate. Put a rest under that for the swing to sit on between it and the bumper. No more up and down. Tighten the dog poo on that spindle bearing while your at it. The destaco latch won't break or come loose on it's own. It can really clamp the swing to the rest you need to attach to the bumper. From the center of the spindle to the latch end is at least 3' of leverage with at least 100 lbs on the fulcrum. Take that to zero and your bouncing will be gone. .
 

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Ya the destaco latch looks nice but I also read a few times where it actually let loose.
Never

Look at your "2" on your license plate. Put a rest under that for the swing to sit on between it and the bumper. No more up and down. Tighten the dog poo on that spindle bearing while your at it. The destaco latch won't break or come loose on it's own. It can really clamp the swing to the rest you need to attach to the bumper. From the center of the spindle to the latch end is at least 3' of leverage with at least 100 lbs on the fulcrum. Take that to zero and your bouncing will be gone. .
Thanks Bigbob. Yah as I'm working on it I was already adding a "rest" below the arm and the bumper so that it takes all the slack out of it. It's not shown in the picture as I wasn't quite there yet :)

The plan is to have the arm fully seat on the far side (license plate) when it's complete at the same time have a backstop. Going to use some pucks as rubber stoppers between the bumper and tailgate.

I found a latch online that seems more fair priced online compared to the one I posted. Slight modification to add a safety pin to it I should be good. Thinking about it that whole t-handle will become annoying after a while.

https://www.amazon.ca/POWERTEC-20307-Latch-Action-700-Pound-Number-431/dp/B00IMPLHRK
 

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They do make the destacos with safety latches....
Yah I realized that after I had posted and did some googling. Nice price tag on these destaco latches!

Did some sourcing around online (today was a holiday, Canada) and I came across these from the local Princess Auto (Harbour Freight for Canadians lol).

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/large-toggle-spring-assembly/A-p8664377e?searchLocations=

Since I really don't want to fork over the money to have destaco latch shipped over I can prob make that one have a safety pin go through to prevent the toggle from flipping open. I also thought to have a backup latch on top of that that would also hold the bumper in its spot if it were to fail.

The secondary one would be something like this,

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/latch-spring-assembly/A-p8650913e

Basically this would be mounted to the end of the arm and the pin would pop inside the bottom bumper part as the arm closes in.

What you guys think of this combination?
they will rust out in a year. I tried to go cheap the first time with my latch and ended up sucking it up and getting a stainless steel destaco
 

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Looks great. That rest is key. You figure the leverage from the pivot to center of tire and hitting pot holes can really put a strain on the pivot.

 

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Looks great. That rest is key. You figure the leverage from the pivot to center of tire and hitting pot holes can really put a strain on the pivot.
Yah that's what I wanted to make sure I had. Right now when you close the tire it ever so slightly rubs on the rest pad and sits on it. This is for a 30" tire, down the road when the 33s come it will prob require a slight lift to get it on there due to the extra weight and it shall be even better!
 

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I've been making bumpers for awhile and the biggest question I get is, "When are you going to make a Rear Swingout?!" Well, I finally got most of the parts together and figured I would start today. I thought I'd post along the way with updates as the project progresses. I hope to be done by this weekend. I will post a list of the tools I used (and hopefully substitutions you can use). I will also post a list of materials I used and any useful links that might help to locate parts. Hope this thread helps someone else as Tire Carriers seem to be a pretty popular fabrication topic.

First, a word about shop safety... ya only got one pair of eyes so use the safety glasses/face shield (especially when grinding, drilling.. etc)! Also, when using loud machines (like the grinder) where ear muffs or ear plugs. Lastly, use gloves to save your hands (drilling/grinding).

Tools used:
Plasma Cutter (suppose a chop saw and jig saw could substitute but you'll be cutting for a long time).
Welder (220v wire feed nice but a stick will do)
Grinder (I use both a 7" and a 4 1/2")
Band Saw (chop saw can be used)
Drill Press (hand drill can be used)
2 1/4" bi-metal hole saw
long 1/4" drill bit
1/2" drill bit
11/16" drill bit
1" drill bit (big sucker for the clevis mount holes.. it's a PITA to do!)
Scribe
Center Punch
Tape Measure
Machinist Square
Hammer
Slag Hammer
Phosphoric Acid to clean/etch the steel (Lowe's)

Materials Used: for basic bumper...
2"x4"x1/4" wall rectangular stock 55" long (can sub thinner material if you like but I like it beefy!)
approx 7" length of 2 1/2"x2 1/2"x1/4" wall stock for receiver (can sub a store bought receiver tube.. Northern has one for like $10)
approx 7" of 2 1/2"x1/4" thick flat stock for chain plate
approx 6" length of 3"x1/4" wall square stock (for mounting legs and receiver lip)
approx 18" of 3"x3/8" thick flat stock cut in half for the bumper mounting flanges
approx 18" of 2"x1/4" thick flat stock for bumper end caps
approx one foot of 2"x3/4" thick flat stock for clevis mounts

Materials for the Swingout
2 1/2"x1/4" wall DOM Tubing (from here.. DOM Tubing)
2"OD pipe for the inner sleeve/bearing spacer(Lowe's)
1" trailer spindle rated for 1000lbs (Spindle)
Spindle Bearing Kit (Spindle Bearing )
De Sta Co 2000lb Latch (Latch
2"x3/16" wall square stock for carrier frame

That's as far as I got today with the materials list. I got most of the cutting and drilling done... here are the pics..

First, I cut the pivot tube from the 2 1/2" DOM tube.. 4 1/4" long. Then I cut an inner bearing separator from 2" OD pipe and rosette welded it in 4 places to hole it in place..

You can see the tube in the center with the sleeve in it. The rest of the stuff is the bearing kit and of course.. the 1" spindle.

Rosette welded sleeve

Sleeve with races in it

Assembled Swingout Pivot

Bumper Blank with 1 1/4" hole cut (top and bottom) for spindle... I'm tippy toeing to take the picture.. :D

Pivot test fitted to bumper.. I did this before making any other cuts on the bumper so that if I ruined it, it would be before I went through the trouble of making all the other cuts.

Drilling the 7" long 2 1/2"x1/4" wall square receiver tube for the pin.. I use a long 1/4" bit to go all the way thru both sides of the tube. That way the holes line up...

I then follow up with a 11/16" bit.

EDIT: Instead of making your own receiver tube, it's probably just as cheap and definately easier to buy one from a trailer supply store... Northern sells 6" long weld-in receiver tubes for about $11
Why can't I open any of your pictures. Don
 

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Hey All,
I was fortunate to buy both front & rear bumpers from Eddie before he retired. After several rock crawling trips through the Rubicon, these things are hard core, stout, & indestructible. Great product and as many have already stated, Eddie was great to work with ! (Eddie - if you are reading this I hope all is well and you are enjoy the heck out of retirement)

I'm looking to expand the rear swing arm by adding an above spare tire trail rack. I found a product that looks like it might just bolt on but wanted to see if anyone has tried adding this to a "non-Rock Hard" swing arm bumper. The product that looks like it might work is the Rock Hard "cargo basket" (part # RH-2004). Has anyone attached one of these to one of Eddie's bumpers ? Looks pretty straight forward.

I'm debating whether to buy this one or weld up my own. At $250, its a bit of a wash....

 

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Does anyone have any of the pictures from the first page of this thread still? Looking to get going on this.

Distance between the 2 clevis mounts? Does it matter?
If possible, put them in line with the frame rails. Go through the bumper if possible and tie into frame or rear of bumper, more strength.

Here is a front I did, not rear but shows idea.





If you can't get to shackle mount to the inner part of the bumper or frame, make the shackle mount wide, more weld surface, still not as strong but best option.



 

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If possible, put them in line with the frame rails. Go through the bumper if possible and tie into frame or rear of bumper, more strength.

*SNIP*
Thanks man.

Yeah My front bolts through the frame and then sticks through the bumper from what I remember. It's strong as hell.

The rear seems like this would mess with the mount setup though. I guess I need to take the stock bumper off and really get an idea of how it all looks and come up with a plan.
 

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names glen you installed your bumper on my jeep awhile back. i was in a red yj with flames,tall black guy, it was awhile back. but anywho love it and got you a customer! she was wondering your number to call you to order one for a YJ. she not on jeepforum do you allow orders over phone or you prefer to stay on here?
could you PM me?
 

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names glen you installed your bumper on my jeep awhile back. i was in a red yj with flames,tall black guy, it was awhile back. but anywho love it and got you a customer! she was wondering your number to call you to order one for a YJ. she not on jeepforum do you allow orders over phone or you prefer to stay on here?
could you PM me?
Hi, I think Eddie (BERSK) retired and sold his shop a few years ago. Miss him, He did great work and was really helpful.

Throw it out here and see if someone else might know if he is still building or if someone else can help.

Cheers!
WSS
 

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WSS, you are correct he is no longer in business. I had one of Eddie's (Ground Pounder Fab) rear bumpers on my YJ named "Turd" (see avatar). They were an awesome bumper at a great price! I had the pleasure of meeting him on a few trailrides once in a while years ago. Super nice dude.

Be well,
RichardD
 

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Looks like Photoshop killed another good thread. Without paying the big money they're wanting, plus the hassle of updating everything, many of these great build threads are almost useless. :(
 

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Eddie kept this fab section of the forum very active when he was around. Maybe less people are building their own stuff now too. Not sure though.

I always liked his simple and functional approach to these bumpers and other things. There's allot of work, trial and error and research into getting bolt on parts to fit right too and until you've figured it all out from scratch it's easy to take that for granted. Trust me I know!

My version. I switched to a bear claw style latch to hold the swing out in place.
 

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