[Mattific]

I wouldn't use it. Spindles are fairly inexpensive and designed to handle the weight of the offset tire and carrier. To me it's not worth the risk when there's so many more viable options

 

[Bigbob]

I hear ya guys, did a bit of research and that bike thing wouldn't work.

So what your saying is something like this; https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/1-250-lb-high-speed-trailer-stub-axle/A-p2080000e

And cut the centre flange around it off?

I'd order the AtoZ spindle its a good price, $55 however after shipping to Canada the thing cost me $140 plus exchange... which is a bit too steep. And I'd prob get dinged with duties on top of that.

If you are going single shear like with a spindle for a hinge your best bet is to look for one that has the hub with it instead of cutting a hub. The hub is usually cast and won't weld up as good. And the better units have a sleeve you weld into the bumper so you don't have to weld on the spindle and screw up the temper. These usually have set screws to hold the spindle in the tube.
As far as that single shear pivot point holding all the weight of a heavy tire and wheel while bouncing down the road I suggest you build a "rest" for the latch end to sit on. I've built a couple of them and used pieces of cheap urethane cutting board for the rest. The rest will fit between the bumper and swing and be a slight interference fit.
Personally I'd go with a double shear pivot. Much harder to snap off.

Weld an upright to the bumper and weld this to the upright.
Heavy Duty Relentless Double Shear Style Pivot - Relentless Off-Road Fabrication

I use two 1" pin double shear hinges on mine, but I also have my tailegate hanging on the swing and a 125 lb toolbox mounted inside the tailgate. 10 years now and no issues whatsoever.

 

[esad_b]

I hear ya guys, did a bit of research and that bike thing wouldn't work.

So what your saying is something like this; http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/1-250-lb-high-speed-trailer-stub-axle/A-p2080000e

And cut the centre flange around it off?

I'd order the AtoZ spindle its a good price, $55 however after shipping to Canada the thing cost me $140 plus exchange... which is a bit too steep. And I'd prob get dinged with duties on top of that.

If you are going single shear like with a spindle for a hinge your best bet is to look for one that has the hub with it instead of cutting a hub. The hub is usually cast and won't weld up as good. And the better units have a sleeve you weld into the bumper so you don't have to weld on the spindle and screw up the temper. These usually have set screws to hold the spindle in the tube.
As far as that single shear pivot point holding all the weight of a heavy tire and wheel while bouncing down the road I suggest you build a "rest" for the latch end to sit on. I've built a couple of them and used pieces of cheap urethane cutting board for the rest. The rest will fit between the bumper and swing and be a slight interference fit.
Personally I'd go with a double shear pivot. Much harder to snap off.

Weld an upright to the bumper and weld this to the upright.
Heavy Duty Relentless Double Shear Style Pivot ? Relentless Off-Road Fabrication

I use two 1" pin double shear hinges on mine, but I also have my tailegate hanging on the swing and a 125 lb toolbox mounted inside the tailgate. 10 years now and no issues whatsoever.

You have a link to one that has the hub with it? Isn't what I linked above what you are referring to?

 

[axxxgijoexxxa]

You could take a look at tmr customs for a spindle, for a spindle that ships from canada. Probably still cost 150$ can.

 

[Bigbob]

You have a link to one that has the hub with it? Isn't what I linked above what you are referring to?

You mean this?

You don't want a wheel hub on it. You want a hub (non-cast) like this:

This has the black tube to weld your tire swing to and a sleeve to weld into your bumper. No welding on the hardened spindle.

 

[esad_b]

Now that looks like a nice unit but wow the price tag as well.

I'm almost just considering using the pin and sleeve that came with the bumper. drill in a zero fitting in the side of the sleeve and call it good.

I'm just unsure how the whole carrier stays down and what prevents someone from simply picking it up of the hinge..

 

[skyj]

Now that looks like a nice unit but why the price tag as well.

I'm almost just considering using the pin and sleeve that came with the bumper. drill in a zero fitting in the side of the sleeve and call it good.

I'm just unsure how the whole carrier stays down and what prevents someone from simply picking it up of the hinge..

Are you refering to the spindle that's not welded in but the sleeve in the pic above?.... The sleeve welds in then the spindle presses in no one will be able to pull that out without super man brute strength. The idea behind that setup is welding the spindle to the bumper makes it brittle so has a possibility to crack and break off.

 

[dwilliams35]

Are you refering to the spindle that's not welded in but the sleeve in the pic above?.... The sleeve welds in then the spindle presses in no one will be able to pull that out without super man brute strength. The idea behind that setup is welding the spindle to the bumper makes it brittle so has a possibility to crack and break off.

. I think he was referring to the kit unit he already had, just a post with a piece of tubing over it.

It doesn't press in, it's a slip fit; it'll fall right out. The idea is just to put a little weld on the bottom to locate and secure it, but the welded-in sleeve takes all the load.

 

[esad_b]

Are you refering to the spindle that's not welded in but the sleeve in the pic above?.... The sleeve welds in then the spindle presses in no one will be able to pull that out without super man brute strength. The idea behind that setup is welding the spindle to the bumper makes it brittle so has a possibility to crack and break off.

dwilliams35 is right. This is what I was referring to;

 

[RoughRiderAZ]

Does anyone have the pictures from this guide? Not loading for me.

 

[esad_b]

For the spare tire mount - what do you guys do, buy new wheel studs and weld them to the plate or what?

It seems the studs on the stock carrier are spot welded on..

 

[dwilliams35]

For the spare tire mount - what do you guys do, buy new wheel studs and weld them to the plate or what?

It seems the studs on the stock carrier are spot welded on..

It's just a bolt.... drill a hole, stick it through, tack down the head.

 

[esad_b]

Whats the consensus about welding while the bumper is on the vehicle? Everything to date I've constructed on the bench etc. Now that the bumper is approaching completion minus the tire carrier.. I made up some lower mounts that will tie it to the frame. But due to the design of the bumper and it would be beneficial if I could tack these two brackets onto the bumper while its fastened to the vehicle to get the right angle/depth etc.

I know the gas tank is right behind me basically.

Never welded anything while it was on the car, should the battery be disconnected or is this just a bad idea?

 

[222Doc]

i just disconnect the battery. keep the ground as close as i can. on a 2012. never been a issue. have done a lot of welding on it. But You have to be careful. not to burn it to the ground. If can do it off better. somethings you really cant.

 

[esad_b]

Well I can't believe it but the bumper is basically nearly done. The carrier came tougher - found a local mechanist and he helped me out with the spindle/sleeve idea and it works beautifully. I've welded everything together and only a couple of items left to figure out.

1) The carrier once on the Jeep seems to bounce a bit. I haven't figured out a latch idea (thats my second point). but I'm wondering what do you guys recommend to prevent this? The end where the latch would fall sits pretty much on the top of the rear bumper.. It seems the bounce is at the upper part of the A-frame.

2) Any recommendations for a latch? I see a lot of guys use these Destaco latches, are they good and worth the money?

3) Paint, but thats a easy one!

 

[Bigbob]

Well I can't believe it but the bumper is basically nearly done. The carrier came tougher - found a local mechanist and he helped me out with the spindle/sleeve idea and it works beautifully. I've welded everything together and only a couple of items left to figure out.

1) The carrier once on the Jeep seems to bounce a bit. I haven't figured out a latch idea (thats my second point). but I'm wondering what do you guys recommend to prevent this? The end where the latch would fall sits pretty much on the top of the rear bumper.. It seems the bounce is at the upper part of the A-frame.

2) Any recommendations for a latch? I see a lot of guys use these Destaco latches, are they good and worth the money?

3) Paint, but thats a easy one!

Destaco is more money than the others but well worth while.

If the swing is bouncing a lot while the Jeep is parked it'll beat itself to death on the road. I've built a couple of these things. On my Jeep I don't use a spindle and swing but the principle is the same. Make sure your spindle bearing is tight. It's not like a wheel bearing where it needs a bit of play, pull out all the play. On the swings I've made I always build a "rest" for the swing to sit on. Picture it as a slightly tapered ramp the swing sits on so the weight is now on both ends of the swing not just the spindle end. I use metal with poly material on top so there is no metal to metal contact which can be noisy. I used an old poly kitchen cutting board for this. And the latch should sit at a slight angle so it pulls the swing into the rest. If that don't make sense I can take a pic of mine and show you.

 

[esad_b]

Well I know I have to adjust the rear rubber snuggers I'm sure it's going to help. And the latch end I might just do the whole bolt with a T handle on it as it seems to be the best and most fail safe.

However the bumper shouldn't bounce that much lol or am I missing something here?

 

[dwilliams35]

Well I know I have to adjust the rear rubber snuggers I'm sure it's going to help. And the latch end I might just do the whole bolt with a T handle on it as it seems to be the best and most fail safe.

However the bumper shouldn't bounce that much lol or am I missing something here?

I did the destaco route; its got an actual tension to it that'll lock down the rattling pretty well. I doubt you're going to get the same level of tension with a bolt/t-handle without a cheater pipe or something, and you can open the destaco in about a second.

 

[esad_b]

Well I know I have to adjust the rear rubber snuggers I'm sure it's going to help. And the latch end I might just do the whole bolt with a T handle on it as it seems to be the best and most fail safe.

However the bumper shouldn't bounce that much lol or am I missing something here?

I did the destaco route; its got an actual tension to it that'll lock down the rattling pretty well. I doubt you're going to get the same level of tension with a bolt/t-handle without a cheater pipe or something, and you can open the destaco in about a second.

Ya the destaco latch looks nice but I also read a few times where it actually let loose.

I drilled and tapped a couple of holes today in the arms and added a couple of rubber feet I had laying around to get the tire snug on the arm. Next step will be to get the whole a-frame to be snug against the tailgate..

 

[dwilliams35]

Ya the destaco latch looks nice but I also read a few times where it actually let loose.

I drilled and tapped a couple of holes today in the arms and added a couple of rubber feet I had laying around to get the tire snug on the arm. Next step will be to get the whole a-frame to be snug against the tailgate..

They do make the destacos with safety latches....