[gsindela]

My mechanic tells me that one of my rear axle seals is failing and differential fluid is leaking on to the wheel. He said they may need to replace the bearing as well. This is way above my pay grade.

He estimated $300-500 for the job. I looked at rockauto.com and the parts are only about $50. Clearly, I could not do this by myself.

Does this estimate seem about right to you guys??

For what its worth, I do like and trust this mechanic. But I tend to be skeptical of any mechanic within a reasonable margin.

Thanks in advance for any input! -Gordon.

Edit: Found this...https://***************.com/threads/how-to-change-your-front-inner-axle-seals-on-a-wrangler-tj.380/

Edit2: Link appears to not be working, but the step by step show what looks to me like a very complicated procedure.

Based on that, sounds like $300-500 is more than reasonable.

 

[BrokeTJ]

If it’s a dana 35, you have c-clips which make you pull the diff cover off and center pin out of the carrier. Dana 44 with the axle bearing retainers you dont have too pull the cover. Easy repair either way, as long as your confident in your self and study up on some YouTube how to videos. Your golden. Having a seal pry tool makes it easier for the old seal removal.


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[gsindela]

If it's a dana 35, you have c-clips which make you pull the diff cover off and center pin out of the carrier. Dana 44 with the axle bearing retainers you dont have too pull the cover. Easy repair either way, as long as your confident in your self and study up on some YouTube how to videos. Your golden. Having a seal pry tool makes it easier for the old seal removal.

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Its a D35. Thanks for the Info!

 

[BrokeTJ]

Absolutely, little grease on the inner part of the seal that rests on the axle shaft and I always like to clean the axle tube with brake clean then hit the outside of the seal with a little rtv. Extra insurance bc I hate leaks.


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[Figgy]

I did my d44 axels I removed them took them to drive line shop they charged me 125 to remove and replace my axel seal and press new bearing on.

Tools used this website YouTube basic hand tools a breaker bar and elbow grease .

 

[Jeepsr4me]

a dana 35 is the easiest to do..



If you got a 5/16 wrench and 1/2 in socket and lug wrench...
make dang sure you have the 5/16 or 8mm wrench and its a closed end GOOD one... can strip that tiny *** bolt..

seals just about pop out once the axle is taken out. Even the bearings come out easy...


Hardest part to me is draining the fluid and cleaning the diff and cover... rest is cake walk.

 

[jhanna]

For the past 2-3 weeks I've been addressing my TJs leaks. So far I've replaced a leaking valve cover gasket and rear pinion seal. I had started new threads for each of those asking questions and posting results. So far, so good on those.

My latest goal was right rear axle seal on D44. With the help of internet web info and videos, including this forum, I went from 4 tires on the ground to this in less than 40 minutes. I've got the bearing, retainer, seal, retainer plate kit for $47 shipped, and my neighbor has a press. Should have 4 tires back on the ground in less than an hour in the morning.

 

[jhanna]

All done, total time approx 2 hours, total cost $47 for kit and $2 can of brake clean.

The only surprise was how easy it was. The only frustration was cleaning leaked gear lube from brake shoe area. The only help needed was use of neighbors press.

Now I'll just keep an eye on it.

 

[jhanna]

OP, your rear diff is a D35 and mine a D44, so I don't know how much of my info in the last 2 posts relates to your situation.

One other point I will make, since the whole point was leaky seal, is that to get to and replace the seal, maybe a $5 part, you have to cut off and destroy and replace a perfectly good $45 bearing and retainer. Maybe I should have listed this as a frustration also.

 

[gsindela]

OP here, had my shop do it as mechanical ability is not my strong suit. Paid about $275.

 

[mukluk]

@gsindela
Not a bad price at all if that includes parts and labour for both rear axle bearings and shaft seals. FYI, the link you posted initially goes to a walk through of replacing the inner axle seals on a front Dana 30 or 44; replacing the axle seals on a rear Dana 35 isn't as difficult a task.

 

[80cj]

D35 , Ford 8.8 and other C clip axle bearings are easy to change. Having to get into the diff is a simple but PIA detail of C clip axles.

 

[jhanna]

Well guys, I tooted my horn too fast, I have a leak. I'm gonna pulled the brake drum and flange this week end. My guess is the seal didn't seat correctly.

 

[mukluk]

Don't forget to grease the seal lip well to keep it from burning on the axle shaft, and I highly recommend a smear of RTV on the outer circumference of the seal before installing it in the axle tube.

 

[jhanna]

Ok, so I've been thinking through this a bit, and may need some help in my understanding.

So using the lower picture in my post #8 above, when the shaft is inserted in the housing,

1. The bearing outer race slides into the machined area at the end of the axle tube/flange.
2. The bearing fits into the outer race.
3. The seal fits against the outside of the bearing.
4. The retainer flange holds everything in place once the 4 bolts are tightened.
5. The seal is now "compressed" between the bearing and the outer flange.

Does this sound right?

 

[Zeep]

Having the arbor press is key! I would not even attempt without one.

 

[MoFarmBoy]

2jhanna, check these:

-Smooth, clean axle surface
-Correct orientation of bearing, seal, retainer
-Collar/seal pressed all the way on (pressure spike)
-Lightly lubed seal/shaft interface
-Lightly RTV outer race
-Properly torqued retainer

Is it possible your retainer plate is the wrong style? Rubi 44s, and maybe others (disc brakes?) require a plate shaped to clear a backing plate rivet and have an inward-flaring flange to secure the seal.

 

[MoFarmBoy]

OP here, had my shop do it as mechanical ability is not my strong suit. Paid about $275.

I'm tighter than a wet knot, so when the local 4x4 shop quoted $80 to simply press on the bearing, I strapped axle and parts on my 49cc Ruckus and rode 50 mi round-trip to use a friend's press.

 

[jhanna]

I've got another rear axle bearing question.

When you replace a rear axle bearing, do you also use the new outer race, or reuse the old race that's still in the housing?

If new, do you "set" the new race in the housing first, then insert the shaft with new bearing,

Or

Do you insert the axle, new bearing with outer race attached ?

 

[bonza]

I've got another rear axle bearing question.

When you replace a rear axle bearing, do you also use the new outer race, or reuse the old race that's still in the housing?

If new, do you "set" the new race in the housing first, then insert the shaft with new bearing,

Or

Do you insert the axle, new bearing with outer race attached ?

use the new outer race, in tapered roller bearing talk its called a cup. a new one should have came with the bearing anyway

from memory when I did mine, I fitted it in the housing first then slipped the axle with the the bearing cone, seal etc in place and buttoned up

as for fitting the inner race, called the cone, I heated it up to about 100c in boiling water and it slipped on the axle easy without having to use a press