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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just re-pitched my rear pinion and shifted my d-35 a little further back with the help of some adjustable Upper and Lower control arms. These do NOT have the Johnny Joints, just polyurathane bushings. I lubed em up really well with some wheel bearing grease, then tightened them snug enough so that they dont easily move up or down without a little muscle..then I went about another turn.

Is this too tight?
Will it destroy those poly bushings too quickly/

I just don't wanna those UCA/ LCA's to come loose on the trail next week....
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
bump...............
 

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This is from my '05 TJ FSM
................................Ft. Lbs
............................Frame.....Axle
...................FRONT
Lower Control Arm....130........130
Upper Control Arm .....60.........60
Track Bar.................60.........40
..................REAR
Lower Control Arm......150.......150
Upper Control Arm.......55.........55
Track Bar..................74.........74
 

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Front Control Arms
Lower front control arms, axle bracket = 85 ft-lb.
Lower front control arms, frame bracket = 130 ft-lb.

Upper front control arms, axle bracket = 55 ft-lb.
Upper front control arms, frame bracket = 55 ft-lb.

Front trackbar, axle bracket = 55 ft-lb.
Front trackbar, frame ball joint = 65 ft-lb.

Rear Control Arms
Lower rear control arms, axle bracket = 130 ft-lb.
Lower rear control arms, frame bracket = 130 ft-lb.

Upper rear control arms, axle bracket = 55 ft-lb.
Upper rear control arms, frame bracket = 55 ft-lb.

Rear trackbar, axle bracket = 74 ft-lb.
Rear trackbar, frame bracket = 74 ft-lb.
 

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I just re-pitched my rear pinion and shifted my d-35 a little further back with the help of some adjustable Upper and Lower control arms. These do NOT have the Johnny Joints, just polyurathane bushings. I lubed em up really well with some wheel bearing grease, then tightened them snug enough so that they dont easily move up or down without a little muscle..then I went about another turn.

Is this too tight?
Will it destroy those poly bushings too quickly/

I just don't wanna those UCA/ LCA's to come loose on the trail next week....
You should really go to the store and invest in a torque wrench so you can get the bolts as tight as they really should be. Having them "snug enough" may be fine for some things but not suspension components on a Jeep. Here is the torque wrench I have and it works great.
1/2" Drive Click Stop Torque Wrench
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys.....I have a torque wrench, I just didn't know the torque specs and/or if they differed from stock due to the bushing materiel difference.
 

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You should really go to the store and invest in a torque wrench so you can get the bolts as tight as they really should be. Having them "snug enough" may be fine for some things but not suspension components on a Jeep. Here is the torque wrench I have and it works great.
1/2" Drive Click Stop Torque Wrench
Surprisingly, that torque wrench actually DOES work pretty good :eek:. I own one and have compared it with a Craftsman torque wrench and they measure evenly.
 

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Thanks guys.....I have a torque wrench, I just didn't know the torque specs and/or if they differed from stock due to the bushing materiel difference.
Good to hear, that is a good question though it they would differ from stock torque specs. I would contact the manufacturer and ask them.

Surprisingly, that torque wrench actually DOES work pretty good :eek:. I own one and have compared it with a Craftsman torque wrench and they measure evenly.
It really does do a great job, when I first bought it I was a little hesitant because of the price compared to a Craftsman or a Kobalt but I have heard that many people use it and am happy with the results I get.
 

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Guess I'm not the only cheap B****** I have that exact same Torque Wrench as well
 

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Well its already hijacked, so I will add to it.
I also have the Harbor Freight torque wrench. I have heard about more issues with a Craftsmen wrench then a Harbor Freight wrench, and have seen calibration tests to prove it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have a The Craftsman, just because I can take it back if I break it.....Harbor Freight "precision tools" worry me after I've broken so many of their chinese Knock-off's.....
 

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when i tighten my control arms i go with as tight as i can physically make them by hand, there aftermarket stuff anyways they can be very tight expecially with strengthened bolts. i feel that once aftermarket is involved the stock specs dont apply anyways as they were engineered for those specific peices.

also big not that is important with pinion angle, your control arms must be torqued with all of the vehicles weight on them. otherwise they will screw with your adjustments.
 

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when i tighten my control arms i go with as tight as i can physically make them by hand, there aftermarket stuff anyways they can be very tight expecially with strengthened bolts. i feel that once aftermarket is involved the stock specs dont apply anyways as they were engineered for those specific peices.

also big not that is important with pinion angle, your control arms must be torqued with all of the vehicles weight on them. otherwise they will screw with your adjustments.
What if the instructions that come with your aftermarket parts include torque specs? Presumably you would worry about those specs. I may be misremembering but I think my Currie arms (rear uppers) had specific specs.
 
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