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Replacement gauges Omix
Quick Gauge test
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Replacement gauges Stepper
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Replacement gauges Speedhut.
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Tachometer Test 1
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Tachometer Test 2
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John I am on pins and needles for the tachometer check. Good stuff! Is you replacement gauge set from Vintage Jeep Parts?
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The good ones came from there Yes,
When they said stepper motor I was excited but they are actually air core gauges.
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Thank you John for the extreme effort, I love this stuff.
RN
RN
My thanks also!
My problem is with the voltmeter (1986 CJ7 factory guage). Needle doesn’t move—I put known 12 bolts across it and it still doesn’t, so I know the guage is bad.
What I can’t figure out is, with my multimeter red pin on the yellow wire and the black pin on a good ground, it reads bogus number-like 150. That’s with the key on. With the multimeter across the battery it reads about 13 not running, and in the 14’s running.
Shouldn’t it read the same under the dash, minus a small drop?
My problem is with the voltmeter (1986 CJ7 factory guage). Needle doesn’t move—I put known 12 bolts across it and it still doesn’t, so I know the guage is bad.
What I can’t figure out is, with my multimeter red pin on the yellow wire and the black pin on a good ground, it reads bogus number-like 150. That’s with the key on. With the multimeter across the battery it reads about 13 not running, and in the 14’s running.
Shouldn’t it read the same under the dash, minus a small drop?
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150 volts? Sure it’s not reading millivolts? Look for a little “mV” on the meter some place.
Yes, it should read the same subtracting a little for the voltage drop for the distance it has to travel.
Have you verified the ground connection? Such a millivolt reading could easily happen with a poor ground.
Yes, it should read the same subtracting a little for the voltage drop for the distance it has to travel.
Have you verified the ground connection? Such a millivolt reading could easily happen with a poor ground.
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Barely enough should get you to 12 Volts.
There might be a bad connection at the source of the 12 volts.
There also should be a red wire for 12 volts for the oil pressure gauge. Does that read correctly ?
There might be a bad connection at the source of the 12 volts.
There also should be a red wire for 12 volts for the oil pressure gauge. Does that read correctly ?
I have not checked the oil pressure hot wire-I'll check that.
I did pull the connector to/from the ignition switch (on top of the column). There should be continuity from the heavy guage yellow wire (that goes from the ignition switch to the fusebox) to the yellow wire at the voltmeter. There is not.
According to the diagram, they connect in the harness between the ignition switch and the fusebox. The harness is unmolested, so I didn't imagine any corruption of the connection of those two wires. before I unwrap that area to check, Ill make a last-ditch effort to check the terminal at the meter end to see if contact is broken there.
I did pull the connector to/from the ignition switch (on top of the column). There should be continuity from the heavy guage yellow wire (that goes from the ignition switch to the fusebox) to the yellow wire at the voltmeter. There is not.
According to the diagram, they connect in the harness between the ignition switch and the fusebox. The harness is unmolested, so I didn't imagine any corruption of the connection of those two wires. before I unwrap that area to check, Ill make a last-ditch effort to check the terminal at the meter end to see if contact is broken there.
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