Ya I had the front cross member cut out for the Trail Forged bumper which made things a hell of a lot easier given my height clearances in the garage and not having to max out my cherry picker. I pulled the engine seperate from the trans and neglected to unbolt the flywheel which could have damaged my torque converter. Make sure you get those 4 bolts if you leave the trans in place. I pulled the trans and t-case later as an assembly. Looking back I would have dropped the t-case on it's own and pulled the trans with the engine to make things easier. Was short on time and space when I pulled the engine though. Had to get the core back to the vendor for my refund in a short window.Check the pics on Brallen's post here:
You might ask him, or he might chime in here on his own, but it appears he ripped the whole front clip off and slid her right in the front.
Could the knock/tick/tap be the Evap purge solenoid?Completed the new engine install today (technically finished it a week ago but chasing gremlins). Have not performed a project like this in a while so I was rusty. My tool kit is pretty basic too. Overall I will say that a 4.7 install is a pia. Lots of tight spots and awkward angles. I recommend having a solid metric flex head and ratcheting wrench set.
Biggest issues were:
1. Old motor leaving the guide pin in the tranny. Me not seeing it and spending 2 days wondering why in the heck I could not get things lined up.
2. I changed the uc bushings... omg that was awful!
3. Exhaust is aggravating to remove and install. Cut bolts with dremel to remove. One manifold was cracked, passenger, and droman unit came with standard style nut/bolts.
4. Radiator and hydraulic fan were a pain to get in and out.
5. Worst was 3 weeks ago when I realized I needed a special "long" harmonic balancer installer. Had to wait a week for shipment of it since no one has one locally.
6. Performed the swap with wj in garage and 2' clearance in front.
After install my new crankshaft sensor was a pos. Had to install the old one which is not fun. Fired right up with that.
I then had a knock/tick/tap. Used a stethoscope and confirmed that engine is fine. Have no idea where it is coming from. Did a bunch of searching for potential causes in the forums and have ruled out (hint disassembled and reassembled)
2. Flex to torque
4. Spark plugs
Everything was fine. Engine builder said it could be the oil pan gasket windage tray. I will just drive it and see what happens. Sounds like a sticky injector but louder. Driving it is not noticeable.
Abs light came on so something is off there.
Excellent advice in this thread and forum. Thanks