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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New engine on the way. Heads are currently off my old one. What is the simplest path to pull this one and drop the new one in?

Pull the block?
Pull the block and trans together?
 

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I have not done mine yet however several have commented it is easier to pull together and MUCH easier putting it back in together then having to crawl around under it putting the trans and t/case back on. In the many engines I have pulled in the past I always try to pluck them out together.
 

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Looking at mine now as a short block there is a ton of room to move around, I may go this route when pulling it out in spring.
 

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I mainly did it myself and it was my 1st time replacing an engine. The hardest part was imo struggling with the exhaust to manifold connections, don't just take the front bolt out cause the the flange will tilt rendering the nut with the tad making no contact instead loosen the front and rear bolts a little at a time and they should just come right out. I ended up cutting my exhaust cause after 2 hrs I was beyond mad so naturally out came the zip cut wheel lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Xcal... I had previously pulled the heads and completely agree that the exhaust manifold collector bolts were stupid. I ended up using a dremel and cut off wheel to cut the bolts.

Others - thanks for the feedback.
 

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My cure for those @!$#!%!! collector bolts. Makes it MUCH easier the next time they have to come off.
 

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Smart move. Are those the stock bolts with an added nut?
No. The stock ones were pretty rusty so I got these from the local hardware store, I needed fully threaded ones to run the nut up tight. 3/8 x 2 1/2 grade 8 with a flange head.
 

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I left the transmission in when I pulled out my engine. When I reinstalled it, I didn't have my intake manifold on. It was a chore to get the bolt holes lined up for the transmission when reinstalling.. Definitely not a job for one person. I ended up calling my neighbor over to help.
 

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Check the pics on Brallen's post here:

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/what-did-you-do-your-wj-today-1086387/index3397.html

You might ask him, or he might chime in here on his own, but it appears he ripped the whole front clip off and slid her right in the front.
Ya I had the front cross member cut out for the Trail Forged bumper which made things a hell of a lot easier given my height clearances in the garage and not having to max out my cherry picker. I pulled the engine seperate from the trans and neglected to unbolt the flywheel which could have damaged my torque converter. Make sure you get those 4 bolts if you leave the trans in place. I pulled the trans and t-case later as an assembly. Looking back I would have dropped the t-case on it's own and pulled the trans with the engine to make things easier. Was short on time and space when I pulled the engine though. Had to get the core back to the vendor for my refund in a short window.

Some things to note;

-FLYWHEEL BOLTS, as mentioned, DO NOT forget these if you opt to leave the trans in place.
-If you don't have the front crossmember removed like mine you'll have to remove as much of the front clip and cooling components as possible for room, essentially everything has to go.
-I had to cut one of the collector bolts as the stop nut had rusted beyond the capability to do its job of stopping the nut from twisting. Joey of Grandzilla was able to get me all the hard to find exhaust hardware replacements. If you need them, hit him up. He works for Jeep in Sac I think.
-If you opted to pull the trans with the engine, personally I think it's easier and safer to stab the torque converter pump while it's out of the vehicle. I set my trans on a table and used the cherry picker to bring the engine to it for alignment and mating.
-It's very manageable to re-install with the trans in place, do yourself a favor though and re-attach the trans lines prior to either putting the assembly back in place. I fought with mine for over an hour on the 2 lines.
-Remove intake manifold during pull and installation of assembly, the additional clearance on the firewall is nice to have. I'm running the 08 manifold and it almost HAS to be removed unless you massage the firewall with your purse a bit, even then it's really tight.
-The engine mounts, do not loosen/remove the 2 bolts that go into the rubber portion of the mounts, YET. From there, loosen and remove all the bolts on the motor mount to frame brackets with exception of the slotted ones. Loosen but leave in place. This will give you some added insurance that if anything fails the assembly will fall onto the frame rails instead of out from under it. Use this process in reverse during re-install of the assembly to help guide the placement of things while stuffing.
-I used 3 additional ratchet straps on my cherry picker for alignment purposes, a click here and a click there will twist, turn, raise/lower the assembly as needed.
-Harness can go on before or after but I would recommend before so you're not fighting the tunnel and firewall locations that are TIGHT
-While the engine mounts are still loose, allow the assembly to lower an inch or so while supporting the trans crossmember, this give you room to install the t-case and reach the upper bolts with less trouble.

Edit - I pulled and installed it with no assistance. Both took maybe 1-2hrs doing it on my own with no additional help.

Hope that helps and good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Completed the engine pull today. Left the transmission in place. It was a relatively straightforward process yet tedious for the various bolts to remove.

Engine is on a pallet and my new one should be at the shipping yard tomorrow.

Now that it is out I will get to work on swapping out soft parts and suspension rubber. Engine mounts need to be replaced too.
 

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Easiest way, by far, is to pull/install the whole thing. Remove the engine harness from the engine bay, along with fuel line removed from lower left frame, and attach all the electrical to the engine. Remove the front two engine mounts when engine is hanging, and install with the engine mounts removed from engine cheeks.

You can put the whole thing in, all hooked together, and not be down there crawling around underneath. Remove front wheels, lower front end to about 4" clearance below rotors to floor.

Your install will have 1) the torque converter in place, bolted to flex plate, 2) engine collar in place, 3) dipstick in place, 4) transmission dipstick tube already in place, 5) starter not in place, as the wires are not yet connected, 6) air intake box in place, 7) throttle body in place, 8) breathers in place, and tubes connected, 9) ground wires in place on left and right engine cheeks, LESS one ground from battery cable, which will route behind right engine mount.
10) Transmission and transfer case attached back there, 11) Trans cross member/driveshaft disconnected.

You will need much ceiling clearance to allow lift, and you definitely will need engine leveler on picker, and remove one link from front chain in timing cover top center.

Be sure picker toes are fully extended to prevent tip over, and boom extended to provide clearance, prefer two floor jacks, one each side under control arm pivot point.

REPLACE UPPER CONTROL ARM Front TOWER BUSHINGS while engine is OUT of bay.

AC condenser will be in place, if desired, and tilted down on left side. Compressor flipped out to right, power steering flipped out to left. Battery box out, PDC disconnected, and the 5 connectors (3 PCM, 2 harness) disconnected at firewall.

This is 4.7 engine.

Exhaust y-tube disconnected from manifolds at hateful screws on manifold.

Lift slowly to avoid crashing top edge of cowling against intake manifold at throttle body rear.

A "drag" board under transmission tail housing is advisable to prevent tailshaft housing from dragging on floor.

Be sure trans lines are disconnected, and that H2OS connectors are off of the exhaust tubes. The transmission harness comes out too, so have the TCM plug off the TCM connector, 8mm as I recall.
 

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Yeah I couldn't get the engine in place with the intake on and and the motor mounts bolted to the engine and believe me I tried. Idk how you guys do it. My replacement engine came with the motor mounts installed so maybe I missed something or they cut the frame all up?
 

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I don't think it is possible to put engine in with engine mounts on block, and AC condenser in place, unless there is more over space, and additional tilt capability. With mounts on, the air intake manifold hits the cowl sheet metal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Completed the new engine install today (technically finished it a week ago but chasing gremlins). Have not performed a project like this in a while so I was rusty. My tool kit is pretty basic too. Overall I will say that a 4.7 install is a pia. Lots of tight spots and awkward angles. I recommend having a solid metric flex head and ratcheting wrench set.

Biggest issues were:
1. Old motor leaving the guide pin in the tranny. Me not seeing it and spending 2 days wondering why in the heck I could not get things lined up.
2. I changed the uc bushings... omg that was awful!
3. Exhaust is aggravating to remove and install. Cut bolts with dremel to remove. One manifold was cracked, passenger, and droman unit came with standard style nut/bolts.
4. Radiator and hydraulic fan were a pain to get in and out.
5. Worst was 3 weeks ago when I realized I needed a special "long" harmonic balancer installer. Had to wait a week for shipment of it since no one has one locally.
6. Performed the swap with wj in garage and 2' clearance in front.

After install my new crankshaft sensor was a pos. Had to install the old one which is not fun. Fired right up with that.

I then had a knock/tick/tap. Used a stethoscope and confirmed that engine is fine. Have no idea where it is coming from. Did a bunch of searching for potential causes in the forums and have ruled out (hint disassembled and reassembled)
1. Exhaust
2. Flex to torque
3. Intake
4. Spark plugs
5. Accessories

Everything was fine. Engine builder said it could be the oil pan gasket windage tray. I will just drive it and see what happens. Sounds like a sticky injector but louder. Driving it is not noticeable.

Abs light came on so something is off there.

Excellent advice in this thread and forum. Thanks
 

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Completed the new engine install today (technically finished it a week ago but chasing gremlins). Have not performed a project like this in a while so I was rusty. My tool kit is pretty basic too. Overall I will say that a 4.7 install is a pia. Lots of tight spots and awkward angles. I recommend having a solid metric flex head and ratcheting wrench set.

Biggest issues were:
1. Old motor leaving the guide pin in the tranny. Me not seeing it and spending 2 days wondering why in the heck I could not get things lined up.
2. I changed the uc bushings... omg that was awful!
3. Exhaust is aggravating to remove and install. Cut bolts with dremel to remove. One manifold was cracked, passenger, and droman unit came with standard style nut/bolts.
4. Radiator and hydraulic fan were a pain to get in and out.
5. Worst was 3 weeks ago when I realized I needed a special "long" harmonic balancer installer. Had to wait a week for shipment of it since no one has one locally.
6. Performed the swap with wj in garage and 2' clearance in front.

After install my new crankshaft sensor was a pos. Had to install the old one which is not fun. Fired right up with that.

I then had a knock/tick/tap. Used a stethoscope and confirmed that engine is fine. Have no idea where it is coming from. Did a bunch of searching for potential causes in the forums and have ruled out (hint disassembled and reassembled)
1. Exhaust
2. Flex to torque
3. Intake
4. Spark plugs
5. Accessories

Everything was fine. Engine builder said it could be the oil pan gasket windage tray. I will just drive it and see what happens. Sounds like a sticky injector but louder. Driving it is not noticeable.

Abs light came on so something is off there.

Excellent advice in this thread and forum. Thanks
Could the knock/tick/tap be the Evap purge solenoid?
 
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