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Looks real good. Any reason you decided to stay with the factory style intermediate steering shaft instead of going with a flaming river or Borgeson double u-joint style shaft?


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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
Fatman, where did you get the 1/8" isolation material? I used a split bicycle tire tube- your method looks significanly more substantial...

build looks great
Matt
Matt, I'm not sure where I came accros the rubber mat, but as soon as I saw it I knew what I was going to use it for. I cut it from the same piece that is in the tailgate pic.
Fatman,

You have enough material now to write a book on re-building a CJ7. You should consider it. It may pay for what you have invested in the Jeep. Your photos are some of the best around. Not to mention, it is rather cool to have a book with your name on it!
Well now Hutch, don't ya know thar be geniuses here already with a whole lot more smarts than me, don't even have to ask em, he'll tell ya. But thanks, I'll stick with JF for now

Looks real good. Any reason you decided to stay with the factory style intermediate steering shaft instead of going with a flaming river or Borgeson double u-joint style shaft?
i guess cuz the stock one wasn't broken. :) It should be fine, no?

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Very nice, very nice indeed.
Thanks Joe, I love your jeep!
 

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The stock steering shaft should be fine. I am just suprised that you stayed with it since you have improved most every thing else.
As for the pocket fender flares the only difference I know of between the YJ and CJ flares is which hole the fixture for the marker light gets fed through. Stock CJ marker lights have the bulb towards the front of the marker light where as the YJ's are centered. The pocket flares are cut for both style market lights so they will work on both CJ's and YJ's.

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
A nudder question!
What are the masses using for Heater Hose size? 4.2

The Heater core tubes are 5/8"
The Intake tubes are 5/8"
The Water pump inlet is 3/4"
and the Head inlet @ the T-stat is 3/4"

So do you stretch a 5/8" or compress a 3/4" hose?
Tanks!
 

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A nudder question!
What are the masses using for Heater Hose size? 4.2

The Heater core tubes are 5/8"
The Intake tubes are 5/8"
The Water pump inlet is 3/4"
and the Head inlet @ the T-stat is 3/4"

So do you stretch a 5/8" or compress a 3/4" hose?
Tanks!
I would change the outlets to 5/8 on the waterpump and head inlet. To add a reducer or adaptor on a hose would work, but not look good on yours. Mine, I could get by. :rofl:
I had the same issue on my 383 and just went to a parts store, just bring the reducer with you and get the right ones you need.

Awesome, you are almost there :thumbsup:
 

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Looks great Fatman, thanks for taking the time to share your work and experience with us. That brings back some vivid memories of rebuilding my CJ in much the same fashion. Especially all those paint parts strewn out over all of the drying racks.

Did painting take more time than you expected it too? Mine sure seemed too when I did it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
Did painting take more time than you expected it too? Mine sure seemed too when I did it.
Cheese & Rice! I swear, I'm going to breath paint fumes the rest of my life!

Got some wiring done today, front clip circuit.
Cleaned up this mess


Now it's ready to be taken apart:



What you would typ expect:


The Fatman way:




Gotta run a circuit, relay & controller for the fan. Actually need to find a Contour fan set up.


Hood latches set


Mirrors set


These few TJ type parts FAR exceed the CJ quality!
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
I'm guessing the spare orange plug is an AUX off the running light circuit?
Chiltions don't say chit about the lead? The RED is the horn.


A shamless plug for the girls over at Wilders that take care of my nuts:




Few addl progress pics





 

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I like to tubes welded to the inner front fender lip to hide the wiring. I will have to remember that for the next one I build. The progress looks good, cant wait to see it done.
I have always wondered what the orange wire off of the headlight harness was for. I would guess its for factory driving lights but I am not posative.
 

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One safety note from the first page images. Those new metal braided brakelines might be in harms way when the swaybar is attached. I broke one of the ends where the bracket from the hard line connects to the braided line on my spring over lift upgrade. Something like a speedbump caused enough deflection that the left side brake line was hit by the swaybar end and snapped off, causing me to lose my brakes.

The solution was turning the bracket up 90 degrees for clearance. Hope this helps, losing brakes is a very scary moment, thankfully I wasn't busting around the woods like a banshee when it did happen.

Please give that a good look since it truly is a safety concern. Looks great man, keep up the good work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #138 ·
Fatman, Question on the front hoop. Will you be able to use the glovebox and get to the windsheild knobs, and what doors are you going to use?
Joe:
No glove box on this dash.
Windshield will be bolted in place. I even took the rest tabs off the hood.
Bestop doors & top.

that looks absolutely amazing...possibly the best CJ i have ever seen
Thanks, too kind.
One safety note from the first page images. Those new metal braided brakelines might be in harms way when the swaybar is attached. I broke one of the ends where the bracket from the hard line connects to the braided line on my spring over lift upgrade. Something like a speedbump caused enough deflection that the left side brake line was hit by the swaybar end and snapped off, causing me to lose my brakes.

The solution was turning the bracket up 90 degrees for clearance. Hope this helps, losing brakes is a very scary moment, thankfully I wasn't busting around the woods like a banshee when it did happen.

Please give that a good look since it truly is a safety concern. Looks great man, keep up the good work.
I'll give her a look, but I'm not sure where there could be any interference?

Got the windshield frame up
Pulled the interior wires over the steering column
Set the doors, aligned the hinges
Installed the front running lights







OK, got a few more questions on the stock wiring harness
1) The black wire with the 90* push tab - goes to the e-brake spring switch ?


2) Have two blacks off the Main light switch, one is cut. I assume this is a ground ?
2a) Or can be run to ground?


3) Have an addl orange wire on the left side hanging out of the harness, doing nutt'n but look'n purdy. ??? Pic below has a piece of tape on it, Pic above you can see it is the one with red heat shrink on it.


4) What is this purple / yellow / black wire plug for ? Center of dash area.
 

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The black wire to the e-brake is correct.
The black wire from the light switch is a ground and from the factory it would be screwed to the bottom lip of the dash just under the drivers side speaker.
The orange wires are usually for dash lights but I am not sure what that one is for.
The plug with the purple wire was not used on the 84 that I just parted out so I cant help on that one either.
 
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