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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
EDIT:
Thanks to the greed of photobucket, the photos are no longer embedded into the threads. It has been a pleasure to share this information with forum members and guests. The following link will lead to the bulk of relevant photos related to this thread:
http://s130.photobucket.com/user/Fatman_CJ7/library/Reassembly?sort=2&page=1

Well today is the first day of final assembly for the CJ. We have done all the mock up, we've painted, welded, sanded, tweaked, all the major parts that are going to be messed with for the most part. (Sorry the tub is not done yet) but we've got to get the roller ready so we can go pick it up soon.

I'll be brief in a lot of this thread as most of the sub assemblies have been done and discussed in other threads, ie. you will see the suspension go in as a whole but I not be going into detail about regearing, caster, hubs, brakes, etc, as I have threaded this information in the past and a majority of this was done in mock up. I'll try to hit on some of the details that you won't see on most other jeeps, why I'm using or making a certain product as well as providing information on the products and distributors that I use.

In 3 days 11/27/07, I will have had this Jeep for one year, I'm sure I could have done this project quicker and spent more time working on it, (ask my wife, she'll tell ya this is where I spend ALL my time) but truthfully I have to balance this with family and work. I am estimating that I have four more months of work before I am 100% complete and ready to road test.

This is thanksgiving weekend so, I do want to thank some people who have been a tremendous help in the past year. My Son who has done ALL the stuff I didn't want to do, he has been great and I think has learned a lot in the process. I can't wait to give him the keys. I'd also like to thank my buddy Eric who comes over and helps every time I ask, he's helped me with parts on my jeep, tools, vendors, just a great friend. Eddie has also been just an incredible asset with the products he makes to custom one offs he's done for me and being able to bounce ideas I had for this Jeep off him when I was first planning the build, THANKS BESRK! And there are another 10 dozen of you guys out there that have sent tools, needed tools, bought, sold or traded parts as we all needed them. Thanks to all you guys for making this an enjoyable platform to receive and provide information. !!!!!

OK, so I finished the 2nd coat of Chassis Black on the frame and misc parts on Wed (nice 75* day), rolled everything into the garage and cranked the heat up until I got back in town last night.




This morning Aryn & I moved the frame out to the driveway and put the suspension back in place. Completely rebuilt, regeared D30 & D44 with new everything! Rebuild and gearing was done by Ted Wendel of Richmond VA.






Brakes, were all reinstalled, sway bar, shocks, pitman connection, bump stops, ...




Brake lines, prop valve,


One thing I'm doing is running the rear lighting harness inside the frame as well as the tow electrical setup:


 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I've set up the rear with a set of 55 watt lights and build a license plate bracket that should hold up well to abuse. Lights for the plate connect in to the tow harness:






These lights sit under the frame and in front of the rear wheels, Eric's been helping me figure out the wiring and relay setup.


Got the dash started, I'll start putting in my indicator lights. And adding switches.


More to follow soon.
 

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:cheers2: Lookin good Fatman. We all cant wait to see the finished product.

About the license plate... it looks awesome, but what if you guys want to tow something? Do you have an alternate spot for it in this case? Also, I am assuming you have a quick connect cannon plug for the light on the plate bracket too?

***EDIT*** Just read the part where you say you have the light tapped in to the trailer harness. However, my question still remains about you alternate plate location for when you tow??
 

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Lookin good! I hope to be where you are within a few months but I'm just now at the disassembly stage! Couple questions, where did you get the brake and fuel lines? Did they come prebent? What about the fuel tank, is that an aftermarket 20 gallon tank? I'm looking forward to the next installment in the series!
 

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Lookin' forward to seeing it fininshed!
 

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You obviously did not use the same Gallon can of industrial strength Rustoleum that I used on the frame. Mine's shinier.
Those bumpers look really good on there.
The question- to make or buy?
 

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hey light question

im a little behind u on your build in just getting dune all my welding on my frame and getting ready for paint.. my question is im putting under carriage light also but im facing mine to the rear so the rocks flying do not smash my lights .. y did u face them forward?....

oh second ? how long did the por take to dry between coats did u do it in one day?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
jatepper said:
:cheers2: Lookin good Fatman. We all cant wait to see the finished product.
About the license plate... it looks awesome, but what if you guys want to tow something? Do you have an alternate spot for it in this case? Also, I am assuming you have a quick connect cannon plug for the light on the plate bracket too?

***EDIT*** Just read the part where you say you have the light tapped in to the trailer harness. However, my question still remains about you alternate plate location for when you tow??
Well the way I figured it, if I'm towing something then there's not much of a chance someone (cop) would be able to see the license plate anyway. :laugh:
As for the kid, I don't want him towing with it till he's got more experience.

tsujeeper said:
Lookin good! I hope to be where you are within a few months but I'm just now at the disassembly stage! Couple questions, where did you get the brake and fuel lines? Did they come prebent? What about the fuel tank, is that an aftermarket 20 gallon tank? I'm looking forward to the next installment in the series!
Brakes - pre bent 4WD.com
Fuel line is 5/16" stainless 20' roll, also from 4WD.
Fuel tank is a 24 gal from Trail Quest trailquest.com 800 770 2617

84MSRB said:
You obviously did not use the same Gallon can of industrial strength Rustoleum that I used on the frame. Mine's shinier.
Those bumpers look really good on there.
The question- to make or buy?
I originally shot mine with Rustoleum bare metal primer and their flat black. I did not like the result, Yours is shinier because I shot mine at low pressure for texture. :cheers2:
Bumpers, make or buy? - There's no better than BESRK's !

vtjeeps said:
im a little behind u on your build in just getting dune all my welding on my frame and getting ready for paint.. my question is im putting under carriage light also but im facing mine to the rear so the rocks flying do not smash my lights .. y did u face them forward?....

oh second ? how long did the por take to dry between coats did u do it in one day?
I put my under carriage lights in that way because I don't like to drive in reverse much. :D
I'll have covers on them when not needed and if they take a hit, they were not bank busters.
The POR is tacky enough for a second coat after 2 hours. You want to avoid letting it set up between coats or before the UV coat. I shot their Chassis Black paint at 20 PSI after a 2 hour wait. Then the final coat 3 days later.
 

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Fatman said:
Fuel tank is a 24 gal from Trail Quest trailquest.com 800 770 2617
I have to be missing something here.
I can't seem to see what the price is for the gas tank.
I see that it says oversized 23 gal. hevey duty tank for a CJ or YJ, but no prices...

Do you remember how much the tank was?

Thanks,
cb
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
certifiablejeep said:
I have to be missing something here.
I can't seem to see what the price is for the gas tank.
I see that it says oversized 23 gal. hevey duty tank for a CJ or YJ, but no prices...
Do you remember how much the tank was?
Thanks,
cb
http://trailquest.com/Jeep_tanks/price-list.shtml

CB, give em a call, they'll work up a $ for a custom.
 

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When I put on my new frame I had my whole harness attached to the tub. Not a single wire on the frame at all. Makes it real easy as almost none of the wiring is exposed to elements. But since I drive in winter salt all the time, that was the whole idea. If I need to lift the tub I just have to disconnect a couple of wires on the tank of tranny and lift the tub off again.

Is that how the fuel pickup sits in the bigger tank or can you change the direction of the outlet connections? Thinking about going to a bigger tank but hate to re-rout he whole fuel system.

Awesome job though. I wish I had welded my roll bar tie ins before I finishe painting my frame. I hate to gring off all that epoxy primer and frame paint.
 

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cool

cool thanks for the info .. i wanted to buy that tank also but they are no longer in bizzness .. so no more making tanks .. so i was going to start making them but no market go figure thats y they stoped ..lol
 

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Looks great. I've really got to come by and check it out if I can ever get done being perpetually sick.
 

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Pacfanweb said:
Looks great. I've really got to come by and check it out if I can ever get done being perpetually sick.
I agree with this man.:tea: I need to check it out as well next time I'm down that way.
 

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Why paint before rhino?

Fatman,

Just curious as to why you painted your tub before you lined it? I would think lining it first would be most advantageous because any overspray on to the outside of the tub could easily be sanded off. You cant sand it off real well with fresh paint.

Im sure you have a reason why you did it this way...Im just curious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
jatepper said:
Just curious as to why you painted your tub before you lined it? I would think lining it first would be most advantageous because any overspray on to the outside of the tub could easily be sanded off. You cant sand it off real well with fresh paint.
The Herc will overlap the paint by about an inch all the way around.

Overspray? I'm going to be a little bit more careful than that. It will be taped off and sealed before the first can of Herc even gets opened. :thumbsup:
 

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Fatman said:
The Herc will overlap the paint by about an inch all the way around.

Overspray? I'm going to be a little bit more careful than that. It will be taped off and sealed before the first can of Herc even gets opened. :thumbsup:
Ill warn you, the Herc gets EVERYWHERE. I'm talking it traveled at least 5 feet and got on my frame when I was doing the inside of my body. I'm still finding new specks of it in my shop.
 
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